Poor Idle Until Warm

The Rovering Member · 15th March 2016, 14:21

Further to my non-starting problems, l want to get my cold-idle problem sorted.
When you first start the car, it idles ok however long she sits there. As soon as you pull away & then come to the first stop the car will not idle & will mostly cut-out at this point unless you feather the throttle, though at this point the engine seems reluctant to rev. lt will restart ok & quite soon the engine will idle but roughly until the car has fully warmed up (not just when the temp gauge is at normal). The management light will also flash but if you can keep the revs going then it won't stay on. The day my starting problems were eliminated, it was on but went out the following day. It's like a no-choke situation really. I'm not au-fait on the 75 cold-start system so don't know whats involved in comparison to an old SU carb.

Obviously this is all a right PITA when you get caught in traffic for the first part of a journey as l frequently am when leaving for work.
The AA man was suspicious of the idle-stepper not speeding the engine up when the pipe is removed. The possible culprit? IMG has been suggested & l do lose a minimal amount of water long-term since l last changed it but l don't think it's the problem. It persists for too long when a tiny amount of water in a cylinder would be evaporated in a very short time.

All suggestions welcome as always.

Ste.Sales · 15th March 2016, 19:02

4 cylinder K series engine? Idle air control valve... Had same problem on one of mine. You can try removing it and giving it a clean inside with carb cleaner, sometimes they get gunked up and stick. Maybe someone can plug a code reader in- must be throwing a fault code if light comes on.

The Rovering Member · 16th March 2016, 03:03

I assume that's what the AA guy called the idle stepper. He did squirt some gear in there but l could no doubt remove it & try to do a more thorough job of cleaning it.
Thanks very much.

Ste.Sales · 16th March 2016, 17:13

If you find it is fubar, im sure i have a few spare lying around my garage. Pm me and i will send you one

The Rovering Member · 16th March 2016, 21:22

Is it worth me buying an overhaul kit for the valve before removal or just try a clean up first?

I'll buy myself one of the EZ code readers too, I think. They must be a handy addition to the glovebox.

Ste.Sales · 17th March 2016, 08:25

Hi, if you pm me your address, i have 4 spare. All are known to be working. I will send you one to try. If it does not solve your problem, it is obviously not that part thats causing the problem.

You could also try throttle reset. Have someone turn the key to ignition position one, then fully depress the accelerator pedal 5 times in fairly quick succession, then turn key back to off. While this is being done, with the bonnet up, listen to the iacv. It should reset its position and make a buzzing clicking noise. If no noise, the valve is not working or stuck. You never know, it might even solve your problem

v-man · 17th March 2016, 08:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ste.Sales

Hi, if you pm me your address, i have 4 spare. All are known to be working. I will send you one to try. If it does not solve your problem, it is obviously not that part thats causing the problem.

You could also try throttle reset. Have someone turn the key to ignition position one, then fully depress the accelerator pedal 5 times in fairly quick succession, then turn key back to off. While this is being done, with the bonnet up, listen to the iacv. It should reset its position and make a buzzing clicking noise. If no noise, the valve is not working or stuck. You never know, it might even solve your problem

Might be wrong, but I thought that procedure is to reset the throttle position sensor not the iacv.

A generous offer indeed to send out a spare part.

The Rovering Member · 17th March 2016, 10:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ste.Sales

Hi, if you pm me your address, i have 4 spare. All are known to be working. I will send you one to try. If it does not solve your problem, it is obviously not that part thats causing the problem.

You could also try throttle reset. Have someone turn the key to ignition position one, then fully depress the accelerator pedal 5 times in fairly quick succession, then turn key back to off. While this is being done, with the bonnet up, listen to the iacv. It should reset its position and make a buzzing clicking noise. If no noise, the valve is not working or stuck. You never know, it might even solve your problem

Thanks very much. I'll have a go at the reset later & let you know. l cleared my full inbox as l got a notification that you had tried to send me a message.

Yes, a very kind offer indeed which is much appreciated.

Ste.Sales · 17th March 2016, 17:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by v-man

Might be wrong, but I thought that procedure is to reset the throttle position sensor not the iacv.

A generous offer indeed to send out a spare part.

It is to reset the throttle pot, but everytime i have done it on any of my rovers, it also moved and reset the iacv.

Anthony & Maricel · 17th March 2016, 18:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ste.Sales

It is to reset the throttle pot, but everytime i have done it on any of my rovers, it also moved and reset the iacv.

Have you checked your plugs for oil residue?? I had same problem. Changed the Icav, didn't solve it. Then Changing the spark plug leads, I noticed the plug was a little oily. Didn't think much of it at first, I just thought when it was last serviced some oil got spilt until I started using oil. Turned out to be a cam seal leaking oil. So have a look around your cam seal covers, and see if they are wet with oil or your spark plug either end for oil residue.

15th March 2016, 14:21	#1
The Rovering Member I really should get out more....... Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: London Posts: 2,953 Thanks: 263 Thanked 538 Times in 431 Posts	Poor Idle Until Warm Further to my non-starting problems, l want to get my cold-idle problem sorted. When you first start the car, it idles ok however long she sits there. As soon as you pull away & then come to the first stop the car will not idle & will mostly cut-out at this point unless you feather the throttle, though at this point the engine seems reluctant to rev. lt will restart ok & quite soon the engine will idle but roughly until the car has fully warmed up (not just when the temp gauge is at normal). The management light will also flash but if you can keep the revs going then it won't stay on. The day my starting problems were eliminated, it was on but went out the following day. It's like a no-choke situation really. I'm not au-fait on the 75 cold-start system so don't know whats involved in comparison to an old SU carb. Obviously this is all a right PITA when you get caught in traffic for the first part of a journey as l frequently am when leaving for work. The AA man was suspicious of the idle-stepper not speeding the engine up when the pipe is removed. The possible culprit? IMG has been suggested & l do lose a minimal amount of water long-term since l last changed it but l don't think it's the problem. It persists for too long when a tiny amount of water in a cylinder would be evaporated in a very short time. All suggestions welcome as always. __________________ Reducing the size of my Rover fleet by adding a 75 to it.

16th March 2016, 03:03	#3
The Rovering Member I really should get out more....... Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: London Posts: 2,953 Thanks: 263 Thanked 538 Times in 431 Posts	I assume that's what the AA guy called the idle stepper. He did squirt some gear in there but l could no doubt remove it & try to do a more thorough job of cleaning it. Thanks very much. __________________ Reducing the size of my Rover fleet by adding a 75 to it.

16th March 2016, 21:22	#5
The Rovering Member I really should get out more....... Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: London Posts: 2,953 Thanks: 263 Thanked 538 Times in 431 Posts	Is it worth me buying an overhaul kit for the valve before removal or just try a clean up first? I'll buy myself one of the EZ code readers too, I think. They must be a handy addition to the glovebox. __________________ Reducing the size of my Rover fleet by adding a 75 to it.

15th March 2016, 19:02	#2
Ste.Sales Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Preston Posts: 233 Thanks: 9 Thanked 37 Times in 35 Posts	4 cylinder K series engine? Idle air control valve... Had same problem on one of mine. You can try removing it and giving it a clean inside with carb cleaner, sometimes they get gunked up and stick. Maybe someone can plug a code reader in- must be throwing a fault code if light comes on.

16th March 2016, 17:13	#4
Ste.Sales Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Preston Posts: 233 Thanks: 9 Thanked 37 Times in 35 Posts	If you find it is fubar, im sure i have a few spare lying around my garage. Pm me and i will send you one

17th March 2016, 08:25	#6
Ste.Sales Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Preston Posts: 233 Thanks: 9 Thanked 37 Times in 35 Posts	Hi, if you pm me your address, i have 4 spare. All are known to be working. I will send you one to try. If it does not solve your problem, it is obviously not that part thats causing the problem. You could also try throttle reset. Have someone turn the key to ignition position one, then fully depress the accelerator pedal 5 times in fairly quick succession, then turn key back to off. While this is being done, with the bonnet up, listen to the iacv. It should reset its position and make a buzzing clicking noise. If no noise, the valve is not working or stuck. You never know, it might even solve your problem