Steering wheel dyeing

Rsnail · 22nd January 2017, 10:29

Hello guys so I found on ebay a guy that supplies R75 sandstone beige leather dye, 50ml bottle for 15 quid, would though 50ml be enough to get a steering wheel job done? And also, should I first apply the white spirit and then the leather conditioner prior to dyeing or vice-versa?

Santara man · 22nd January 2017, 10:36

Yes you must clean the old leather thoroughly with spirit to get rid of dirt and grease.50 ml should be enough unless your doing a full colour change. You will need a sealer for the new dye to stop it wearing off again.

Fifer · 22nd January 2017, 12:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Santara man

Yes you must clean the old leather thoroughly with spirit to get rid of dirt and grease.50 ml should be enough unless your doing a full colour change. You will need a sealer for the new dye to stop it wearing off again.

Hi Tony,
Can you recommend a sealer that is compatible with this kind of dye?

Thanks,
Fifer

Rsnail · 22nd January 2017, 13:14

Santara what do you mean with the full colour change? I want to dye the whole steering wheel without the airbag protection of course.

KevF6 · 22nd January 2017, 19:15

50ml should be enough if your restoring faded areas.

BTW, I only do leather restoration as a full time job, so don't take any notice of me lol. First of all never put a conditioner on before 'dyeing'. Technically it's not a dye - it is a pigment, but I give up explaining why.

Clean with a leather cleaner if you can then leave to dry as the moisture would have absorbed in to the the non coloured parts. Then clean with a good solvent - I would always recommend alcohol (isopropyl) its dirt cheap off the bay. This will remove more grime and make it more acceptable for the pigment to stick properly. If you don't have existing colour loss then you can skip the next 'sealing' process.

Then I would use an aerosol lacquer (leather one of course), again cheap off of a leather supplier (you can either get a matt, satin or gloss). Spray this on the steering wheel to seal in and create a hard surface as opposed to the possible existing absorbent surface (that may still harbour grease - which won't allow proper adhesion). Then apply the pigment by either sponge, sprayer, micro roller or brush. I wouldn't use a brush myself as it will leave faint brush marks. When applied speed dry with a hair dryer then apply another coat until it is uniform.

Lastly I would apply the lacquer to the finished article to seal in the colour and make it hard wearing. This would do the job perfectly but I am a perfectionist so I would also use a PU water based lacquer on top of the aerosol one to obtain a true matt finish.

Good luck.

p.s. going back to the conditioner, it is an irrelevant product on these pigment finishes, it doesn't condition it at all as you have a lacquer coat. Conditioners are for aniline dyed leathers (actual dye as opposed to pigment) as they can dry out. However, leather retailers love to sell it because people think they need it

rab60bit · 23rd January 2017, 09:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevF6

50ml should be enough if your restoring faded areas.

BTW, I only do leather restoration as a full time job, so don't take any notice of me lol. First of all never put a conditioner on before 'dyeing'. Technically it's not a dye - it is a pigment, but I give up explaining why.

Clean with a leather cleaner if you can then leave to dry as the moisture would have absorbed in to the the non coloured parts. Then clean with a good solvent - I would always recommend alcohol (isopropyl) its dirt cheap off the bay. This will remove more grime and make it more acceptable for the pigment to stick properly. If you don't have existing colour loss then you can skip the next 'sealing' process.

Then I would use an aerosol lacquer (leather one of course), again cheap off of a leather supplier (you can either get a matt, satin or gloss). Spray this on the steering wheel to seal in and create a hard surface as opposed to the possible existing absorbent surface (that may still harbour grease - which won't allow proper adhesion). Then apply the pigment by either sponge, sprayer, micro roller or brush. I wouldn't use a brush myself as it will leave faint brush marks. When applied speed dry with a hair dryer then apply another coat until it is uniform.

Lastly I would apply the lacquer to the finished article to seal in the colour and make it hard wearing. This would do the job perfectly but I am a perfectionist so I would also use a PU water based lacquer on top of the aerosol one to obtain a true matt finish.

Good luck.

p.s. going back to the conditioner, it is an irrelevant product on these pigment finishes, it doesn't condition it at all as you have a lacquer coat. Conditioners are for aniline dyed leathers (actual dye as opposed to pigment) as they can dry out. However, leather retailers love to sell it because people think they need it

I'm planning to do a complete colour change from sandstone/oak to ash grey/dark oak on my Facelift car steering wheel. The doner wheel is in really great, almost pristine, condition (sad to change the original colour really, tried to exchange on here for an ash grey but no takers). Would you be more specific about what leather cleaner you recommend in the first process. I've tried Stubie on here for ash grey dye/pigment but he doesn't respond so can you suggest a source for the colour I need.

T-Cut · 24th January 2017, 12:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevF6

I only do leather restoration as a full time job

It's always good to hear from someone who knows what they're talking about. Thanks for your input.

TC

Santara man · 23rd January 2017, 14:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fifer

Hi Tony,
Can you recommend a sealer that is compatible with this kind of dye?

Thanks,
Fifer

Have a look at KevF6's reply he just about covered it
I got my kit from Furniture clinic.

KevF6 · 23rd January 2017, 14:17

Try not to use a brush. A fine sponge is good and dab n roll not wipe. Or use a micro roller which is what I use they give an awesome finish, especially on the seats: https://www.trade1st.co.uk/paint-rol...ers-2-2-5-inch The blue ones are best and you'll need the roller handle.

Finally don't forget to use a hair dryer because that evens out the liquid when drying and makes the job quicker

Nick Greg · 23rd January 2017, 15:28

I colour changed a cream to Sandstone Grey 2 years back with Studies dye. Didn;t even bother cleaning it first and it still looks perfect after 2 years. Car used every day. Didn't use a sealer either. Just a small piece of sponge and 3 or 4 light coats. Dead easy

22nd January 2017, 10:29	#1
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Steering wheel dyeing Hello guys so I found on ebay a guy that supplies R75 sandstone beige leather dye, 50ml bottle for 15 quid, would though 50ml be enough to get a steering wheel job done? And also, should I first apply the white spirit and then the leather conditioner prior to dyeing or vice-versa?

22nd January 2017, 10:36	#2
Santara man Avid contributor 2004 Rover75 Tourer Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Winsford Cheshire Posts: 147 Thanks: 41 Thanked 43 Times in 32 Posts	Yes you must clean the old leather thoroughly with spirit to get rid of dirt and grease.50 ml should be enough unless your doing a full colour change. You will need a sealer for the new dye to stop it wearing off again. __________________ Growing old gracefully in a 75...Real nameTony

22nd January 2017, 19:15	#5
KevF6 Loves to post Rover 75 Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Luton Posts: 354 Thanks: 37 Thanked 89 Times in 70 Posts	50ml should be enough if your restoring faded areas. BTW, I only do leather restoration as a full time job, so don't take any notice of me lol. First of all never put a conditioner on before 'dyeing'. Technically it's not a dye - it is a pigment, but I give up explaining why. Clean with a leather cleaner if you can then leave to dry as the moisture would have absorbed in to the the non coloured parts. Then clean with a good solvent - I would always recommend alcohol (isopropyl) its dirt cheap off the bay. This will remove more grime and make it more acceptable for the pigment to stick properly. If you don't have existing colour loss then you can skip the next 'sealing' process. Then I would use an aerosol lacquer (leather one of course), again cheap off of a leather supplier (you can either get a matt, satin or gloss). Spray this on the steering wheel to seal in and create a hard surface as opposed to the possible existing absorbent surface (that may still harbour grease - which won't allow proper adhesion). Then apply the pigment by either sponge, sprayer, micro roller or brush. I wouldn't use a brush myself as it will leave faint brush marks. When applied speed dry with a hair dryer then apply another coat until it is uniform. Lastly I would apply the lacquer to the finished article to seal in the colour and make it hard wearing. This would do the job perfectly but I am a perfectionist so I would also use a PU water based lacquer on top of the aerosol one to obtain a true matt finish. Good luck. p.s. going back to the conditioner, it is an irrelevant product on these pigment finishes, it doesn't condition it at all as you have a lacquer coat. Conditioners are for aniline dyed leathers (actual dye as opposed to pigment) as they can dry out. However, leather retailers love to sell it because people think they need it __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Done: New leather & walnut steering wheel, headlight restore, new badges to rear & engine, walnut facia trims, full size spare wheel, timing belts, Plenum spy hole, DD head unit. • This vehicle was the 67,855th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 • This vehicle was the 2,457th 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,671 Last edited by KevF6; 22nd January 2017 at 20:29..

23rd January 2017, 14:17	#9
KevF6 Loves to post Rover 75 Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Luton Posts: 354 Thanks: 37 Thanked 89 Times in 70 Posts	Try not to use a brush. A fine sponge is good and dab n roll not wipe. Or use a micro roller which is what I use they give an awesome finish, especially on the seats: https://www.trade1st.co.uk/paint-rol...ers-2-2-5-inch The blue ones are best and you'll need the roller handle. Finally don't forget to use a hair dryer because that evens out the liquid when drying and makes the job quicker __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Done: New leather & walnut steering wheel, headlight restore, new badges to rear & engine, walnut facia trims, full size spare wheel, timing belts, Plenum spy hole, DD head unit. • This vehicle was the 67,855th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 • This vehicle was the 2,457th 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,671

22nd January 2017, 13:14	#4
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Santara what do you mean with the full colour change? I want to dye the whole steering wheel without the airbag protection of course.

23rd January 2017, 15:28	#10
Nick Greg Posted a thing or two Honda Insight Hybrid Join Date: May 2015 Location: Brighouse Posts: 1,157 Thanks: 691 Thanked 424 Times in 280 Posts	I colour changed a cream to Sandstone Grey 2 years back with Studies dye. Didn;t even bother cleaning it first and it still looks perfect after 2 years. Car used every day. Didn't use a sealer either. Just a small piece of sponge and 3 or 4 light coats. Dead easy