ZT 190+ comm number 468 - Page 13

jonc3725 · 22nd March 2016, 20:14

I have been working on the engine on and off recently but not achieved a lot due to work

Firstly with the cover away a quick picture of the engine as it was.

All the engine plastics etc have been degreased and gone for hydro dipping

and the throttle body removed

Next up inlet manifold electrics and vacuum pipes removed

Once all this is done there are 6 bolts to remove. 4 along the front

and two on the back which are difficult to see. I removed the rear bulkhead plates for ease of access.

I then eased the manifold off. As it was fitted last year brand new it came off the O seals on the inlet castings very easily

I do have replacements ready to fit in place.

Once off I noticed the coil on No.4 had only been put on with 1 x bolt. Obviously a spark plug change in the past was as struggle

Next up the wiring loom was removed out the way. This meant disconnecting the injectors, coils and various sensors. I placed the wiring loom over to the passenger side out of the way.

Next up I undid the fuel rail and removed it totally

Now the extant of the lub oil weeps and 15 years of crud could be seen on the rocker covers

Now the coolant was drained through the Engine drain plug and lower coolant hose on the radiator. I did capture it as the garage had only just filled it when I had them do the timing belts and water pump.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=54248
I then removed the inlet castings. These are held on with 7 x bolts on each casting.

Once both intake castings were removed the extant of the leak on the thermostat could be seen and the crud in the V.

I then removed the thermostat and pipes. In true V6 fashion the plastic 90 degree bend had to be broken to get it out

Every Thermostat I have changed I have done this way. I would not want to do it through the key hole method as I would get too frustrated

I then cleaned the V out.

the injectors have gone for ultrasonic cleaning and I have now removed the cam covers and started cleaning them

thomas 75 connie · 22nd March 2016, 21:11

Very nice Jon. I'm going to have to do that to my new launch car soon as the manifold is noisy.
Your car is going to look better than new soon

Dallas · 23rd March 2016, 07:34

Great work Jon

so thats what the 'V' section looks like when everything has been taken off.

You fancy doing my thermostat Jon?

jonc3725 · 24th March 2016, 10:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by thomas 75 connie

Very nice Jon. I'm going to have to do that to my new launch car soon as the manifold is noisy.
Your car is going to look better than new soon

Cheers Thomas.

She will never be as good as new but once finished she should be ready for another 15 years.

. As I have said loads of times she was a really good base of a car for a project like this and the previous owner always paid to have the correct maintenance done

Give me a shout if you need a hand when you get around to your manifold.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dallas

Great work Jon

so thats what the 'V' section looks like when everything has been taken off.

You fancy doing my thermostat Jon?

yea it does seem a bit daunting doesnt it but its only nuts bolts and wiring

As I said I wouldnt do it the key hole way as my hands are quite large so I like access

and I have the luxury of not rushing

thomas 75 connie · 24th March 2016, 10:53

Thanks Jon will do

jonc3725 · 27th March 2016, 23:35

next job was to remove the cam covers, clean them and fit new gaskets and breather mesh.

the smaller breather holes weer both blocked on both covers

cleaning process using degreaser and water

and the finished products. I'm not a fan of polished bling in the engine bays so decided to leave them natural

Replacement meshes bought for the breathers

the holes unblocked

and the mesh fitted. 4 are needed in two pairs for each cam cover

I had a complete engine gasket set already in the garage after picking it up as a complete package with loads of other stuff from an old member on here

Covers fitted and bolts torques down to 10Nm in accordance with the tightening pattern
7. 6. 3. 14.

8. 1. 2. 13.

9. 10. 4. 5. 11. 12.

some of the brackets attached the covers taken back to bare and sprayed

The covers torqued in place ready for the next stage

Next up was the fitting of the replacement thermostat and pipes. I applied a little silicon grease to the O seals to aid fitting but still pinched the 90 degree bend seal and had to replace it

I also connected the 3 x coolant hoses at this point as access would be limited after the intake castings went back on and my fingers are too big

Whilst the engine was stripped and the rear bank was easy to get to I changed these bad boys as well. These are NGKs

Next up I decided to give the alternator a bit of a clean. Again not into shiny bling I just cleaned the aluminium to clear it of the grease,

An easy job of releasing the tensioner to remove the belt and then 2 x bolts and the alternator lifts out

and cleaned

and back in the car

Next up was to clean and degrease the intake castings and fit the injectors. All ready to fit with new gaskets

Fitting up is farily easy. Fit the aft set first and torque up the bolts to 25Nm and then fit the fwd set and torque up

Next up was to fit the fuel rail. I removed this in one piece so fitted it back in one as well. I put a little silicon on the 6 injector O seals and pushed the rail over the seals (took a bit of effort because they were tight

once all the connections are pushed onto the injectors there are 6 clips to clip the injectors and the rail together

and 4 M6 bolts (2 x each side)

Next up is the electrics and ignition system followed by the vacuum pipes and build up the cooling systems

Jules · 28th March 2016, 06:25

Great work Jon
Interestingly we check all KV6 breathers now on a service especially the small ones.
A 1.5mm drill bit works fine and offers instant pressure relief for a completely blocked system which either pushes the dipstick out mid journey resulting in complete oil loss. (Similar problem on diesels as we all know !)

If dipstick doesn't get pushed out the pressure tends to blow the crank seal at the flywheel end.
Usually the above problems happen after the 100k mark

jonc3725 · 28th March 2016, 10:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jules

Great work Jon
Interestingly we check all KV6 breathers now on a service especially the small ones.
A 1.5mm drill bit works fine and offers instant pressure relief for a completely blocked system which either pushes the dipstick out mid journey resulting in complete oil loss. (Similar problem on diesels as we all know !)

If dipstick doesn't get pushed out the pressure tends to blow the crank seal at the flywheel end.
Usually the above problems happen after the 100k mark

Cheers mate

Yea this engine has 90K on it and regularly serviced all its life but the small holes were blocked. I am surprised it wasnt something like a 5A to take out the breather mesh and clean/replace as well as checking the holes are clear.

Obviously due to forums like this we know about these sort of things

I think a lot of the gunk on the front camcover was coming from the filler cap. The seal was brittle and flat so I can imagine was passing oil.

Jules · 28th March 2016, 13:16

Common as muck now these red ones

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-MG-ZT.../272189337199?

jonc3725 · 28th March 2016, 22:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jules

Common as muck now these red ones

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-MG-ZT.../272189337199?

ooh nice car and an early example. Red ZT's with straights are just sooo common

22nd March 2016, 20:14	#121
jonc3725 Posted a thing or two MG ZT 190 + and MKIV Supra Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Plymouth Posts: 1,551 Thanks: 224 Thanked 493 Times in 359 Posts	I have been working on the engine on and off recently but not achieved a lot due to work Firstly with the cover away a quick picture of the engine as it was. All the engine plastics etc have been degreased and gone for hydro dipping and the throttle body removed Next up inlet manifold electrics and vacuum pipes removed Once all this is done there are 6 bolts to remove. 4 along the front and two on the back which are difficult to see. I removed the rear bulkhead plates for ease of access. I then eased the manifold off. As it was fitted last year brand new it came off the O seals on the inlet castings very easily I do have replacements ready to fit in place. Once off I noticed the coil on No.4 had only been put on with 1 x bolt. Obviously a spark plug change in the past was as struggle Next up the wiring loom was removed out the way. This meant disconnecting the injectors, coils and various sensors. I placed the wiring loom over to the passenger side out of the way. Next up I undid the fuel rail and removed it totally Now the extant of the lub oil weeps and 15 years of crud could be seen on the rocker covers Now the coolant was drained through the Engine drain plug and lower coolant hose on the radiator. I did capture it as the garage had only just filled it when I had them do the timing belts and water pump. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=54248 I then removed the inlet castings. These are held on with 7 x bolts on each casting. Once both intake castings were removed the extant of the leak on the thermostat could be seen and the crud in the V. I then removed the thermostat and pipes. In true V6 fashion the plastic 90 degree bend had to be broken to get it out Every Thermostat I have changed I have done this way. I would not want to do it through the key hole method as I would get too frustrated I then cleaned the V out. the injectors have gone for ultrasonic cleaning and I have now removed the cam covers and started cleaning them __________________ Jon C Living the dream MK IV VVTI Tiptronic TT Toyota Supra MG ZT 190+ BornTuesday, 10th July 2001 @ 09:01:10 259th ZT to run off the production line, out of 18,894 252nd ZT 190 + to be made out of 4,023 101st ZT in Solar Red (code: CEU) to be made out of 1,888 Last edited by jonc3725; 20th August 2017 at 21:41..

27th March 2016, 23:35	#126
jonc3725 Posted a thing or two MG ZT 190 + and MKIV Supra Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Plymouth Posts: 1,551 Thanks: 224 Thanked 493 Times in 359 Posts	next job was to remove the cam covers, clean them and fit new gaskets and breather mesh. the smaller breather holes weer both blocked on both covers cleaning process using degreaser and water and the finished products. I'm not a fan of polished bling in the engine bays so decided to leave them natural Replacement meshes bought for the breathers the holes unblocked and the mesh fitted. 4 are needed in two pairs for each cam cover I had a complete engine gasket set already in the garage after picking it up as a complete package with loads of other stuff from an old member on here Covers fitted and bolts torques down to 10Nm in accordance with the tightening pattern 7. 6. 3. 14. 8. 1. 2. 13. 9. 10. 4. 5. 11. 12. some of the brackets attached the covers taken back to bare and sprayed The covers torqued in place ready for the next stage Next up was the fitting of the replacement thermostat and pipes. I applied a little silicon grease to the O seals to aid fitting but still pinched the 90 degree bend seal and had to replace it I also connected the 3 x coolant hoses at this point as access would be limited after the intake castings went back on and my fingers are too big Whilst the engine was stripped and the rear bank was easy to get to I changed these bad boys as well. These are NGKs Next up I decided to give the alternator a bit of a clean. Again not into shiny bling I just cleaned the aluminium to clear it of the grease, An easy job of releasing the tensioner to remove the belt and then 2 x bolts and the alternator lifts out and cleaned and back in the car Next up was to clean and degrease the intake castings and fit the injectors. All ready to fit with new gaskets Fitting up is farily easy. Fit the aft set first and torque up the bolts to 25Nm and then fit the fwd set and torque up Next up was to fit the fuel rail. I removed this in one piece so fitted it back in one as well. I put a little silicon on the 6 injector O seals and pushed the rail over the seals (took a bit of effort because they were tight once all the connections are pushed onto the injectors there are 6 clips to clip the injectors and the rail together and 4 M6 bolts (2 x each side) Next up is the electrics and ignition system followed by the vacuum pipes and build up the cooling systems __________________ Jon C Living the dream MK IV VVTI Tiptronic TT Toyota Supra MG ZT 190+ BornTuesday, 10th July 2001 @ 09:01:10 259th ZT to run off the production line, out of 18,894 252nd ZT 190 + to be made out of 4,023 101st ZT in Solar Red (code: CEU) to be made out of 1,888 Last edited by jonc3725; 20th August 2017 at 21:43..

28th March 2016, 06:25	#127
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Great work Jon Interestingly we check all KV6 breathers now on a service especially the small ones. A 1.5mm drill bit works fine and offers instant pressure relief for a completely blocked system which either pushes the dipstick out mid journey resulting in complete oil loss. (Similar problem on diesels as we all know !) If dipstick doesn't get pushed out the pressure tends to blow the crank seal at the flywheel end. Usually the above problems happen after the 100k mark __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

28th March 2016, 13:16	#129
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Common as muck now these red ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-MG-ZT.../272189337199? __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

22nd March 2016, 21:11	#122
thomas 75 connie This is my second home Rover 75 launch car x2, Rover 800 Vitesse Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Plymouth Devon Posts: 8,463 Thanks: 1,115 Thanked 1,083 Times in 653 Posts	Very nice Jon. I'm going to have to do that to my new launch car soon as the manifold is noisy. Your car is going to look better than new soon

23rd March 2016, 07:34	#123
Dallas This is my second home 1979 Capri 1.6L, 1982 Capri 1.6L, 2016 Dacia Stepway Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dorset Posts: 8,595 Thanks: 3,496 Thanked 3,397 Times in 2,218 Posts	Great work Jon so thats what the 'V' section looks like when everything has been taken off. You fancy doing my thermostat Jon?

24th March 2016, 10:53	#125
thomas 75 connie This is my second home Rover 75 launch car x2, Rover 800 Vitesse Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Plymouth Devon Posts: 8,463 Thanks: 1,115 Thanked 1,083 Times in 653 Posts	Thanks Jon will do