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22nd July 2017, 15:40 | #21 |
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Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012
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It's just like my long gone trade, a Bush TV was once recognised as a quality set, now Bush is just a name containing Chinese tat. Same with many car parts these days
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22nd July 2017, 16:18 | #22 |
same car since 2005
2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
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I've read so many times that the trade is riddled with counterfeit parts . Just because it says Delphi on the box doesn't mean it is Delphi
Buying from a known , trusted major dealer might help but stay away from iffy cheap deals for sure .
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22nd July 2017, 17:47 | #23 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008
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The Delphi drop links I bought from Autossesive. Quite a well known company.I will be visiting them next week with the useless droplink, to see what they can do about it, since it was only on the car for 8 months.
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22nd July 2017, 18:23 | #24 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon MGZT Join Date: Jul 2012
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Did a bit of an a/b re the cheap replacement versus the original mgr drop links.First thing I noticed was the quality and size of the rubber boot.
Mgr one , the boot was bigger and made of a way thicker rubber, secondlly the amount of grease in the new boot is very little due to boot size and not being filled enough. You can remove the boot by removing the spring loaded "C" clip around the rubber and fill it with grease as mentioned |
22nd July 2017, 19:05 | #25 |
This is my second home
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Hi.
I did that with a pair I bought via a local motor factors, a few months later the boots at the bottom were all split and the grease has spewed out....... so did the excess cause the problem or was the rubber boot just a load of old tat?
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22nd July 2017, 19:08 | #26 | |
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Quote:
Last edited by Master; 22nd July 2017 at 19:11.. |
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22nd July 2017, 19:19 | #27 | |
This is my second home
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Quote:
Any I've changed are either sloppy and loose or the rubber boots are split and full of water. You can take them off altogether and do a test run, if the rattling goes then you know what's wrong if it persists then look elsewhere. Don't worry unless you go flying round corners you'll be safe enough with them off.
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Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ Last edited by murphyv310; 22nd July 2017 at 19:23.. |
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22nd July 2017, 23:01 | #28 | |
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The wishbone is the hardest to ascertain. Ive have mechanics look at suspect ones and say there all fine. Because the car has load on them it's hard to see/ feel any wear on them unless there really gone. |
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22nd July 2017, 23:46 | #29 |
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The best way to test trackrod ends is to jack the car up on what you think is the offending side, and then either you , or get someone to do it, turn the steering wheel,while you look at the trackrod end and see if it is moving between the hub arm, and the actual trackrod end. If it shows sign of movement, get it changed, it cream crackered. So I am told, the top strut bearing is probably worn if the steering makes a 'twanging' sound, and if you grip the suspension spring while the steering is turned, you can feel it jerk, then your suspension top strut bearing is goosed.at
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23rd July 2017, 10:16 | #30 | |
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I purchased some of those Mayle drop links too and must admit they do look well made. Can't comment on them yet as still haven't got around to fitting them. They offer a 4 year warranty too!
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My garage. 03/53 MG ZT-T+ CDTi auto in XPG. 232k and much to do! 21/21 MG ZS ev. Daily. 85/C Capri 2.8i Special. Mine 29+ years. 82/X Talbot Tagora SX V6. Restoration project. 11/11 Hyundai I Load CRDi. Van....... nuff said. |
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