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Old 17th July 2017, 22:15   #11
HarryM1BYT
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75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD

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Originally Posted by VeeSix View Post
I'll get one, any recommendations? When I looked them up before everyone said no you need a T4...?
If the ECU is OBD II compatible, there is a massive choice on ebay for basic code readers, if you have a USB laptop. Use it first, to clear all pre-existing fault codes, then drive it and see what code(s) reappear.

As anyone suggested a that a coil pack or a spark plug might be breaking down under stress?
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How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

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Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 17th July 2017, 22:22   #12
VeeSix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT View Post
If the ECU is OBD II compatible, there is a massive choice on ebay for basic code readers, if you have a USB laptop. Use it first, to clear all pre-existing fault codes, then drive it and see what code(s) reappear.

As anyone suggested a that a coil pack or a spark plug might be breaking down under stress?
Hi Harry, yes the choice is indeed massive which is why I wondered if anyone had any experience of any. You can spend £17 or £60 and can't tell the difference.
The plugs have been replaced with NGK's and coil packs switched with ones from a smooth running 75. My first thought too.
Thanks for the suggestions though.
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Old 17th July 2017, 22:25   #13
VeeSix
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Default T4 anyone?

Anyone know a T4 equipped expert near Kettering?
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Old 18th July 2017, 07:34   #14
HarryM1BYT
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75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD

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Hi Harry, yes the choice is indeed massive which is why I wondered if anyone had any experience of any. You can spend £17 or £60 and can't tell the difference.
The plugs have been replaced with NGK's and coil packs switched with ones from a smooth running 75. My first thought too.
Thanks for the suggestions though.
Much cheaper than £17, around £3 is the cheapest I have seen. £60 should get you a stand alone diagnostics unit, which can display fault codes on its own display.

I have one of the cheap USB versions, plus a stand alone reader and recently added a VAG interface to work with TOAF.
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How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.
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Old 18th July 2017, 16:43   #15
chris75
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I have this NT 200 one from Foxwell
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Foxwell-NT...YAAOSwRLZT~f-G
Mid price at £38 and Works well for both my 75 v6 and wife's K series ZR but does not do ABS , airbag or service indicator resets. I just use it to diagnose faults and don't know about its live data stuff The supplier Gendan is a well known Diagnostics guru and supplies a range of associated stuff . Have a look at his site http://www.gendan.co.uk/ .
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Old 21st July 2017, 22:21   #16
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Default Result!

[QUOTE=PhilR75;2514519]If the engine management light flashes up a fault briefly, it would be worth finding someone with a T4 to look into what the failure information might be.

So a big thank-you to everyone who made suggestions. I was just about to buy a code reader when T4Phil came back to me and fitted in a T4 read for a very reasonable charge. I can't recommend him enough, a fountain of knowledge and besides finding the fault with his kit in about 60 seconds, spotted a couple of others things that need doing as preventative maintenance.

What was the problem I hear you ask? Well I'm glad he came because I'd never have found it...the crank sensor was slightly loose!!! When we changed the clutch the old sensor had welded itself in and broke when we tried to remove it. We took the one off our donor car (the gift that keeps on giving!) and bolted it in. I think what happened is the corrosion in the receptor hole prevented the sensor pushing fully home. Then, when my son tightened the bolt he was careful not to exceed the mere 8nm that the little bolt needs. Over a few drives the corrosion wore away and the sensor was floating back and forth by about 0.5mm - just enough to make it intermittent!

Would you believe it? Still, in checking all the other stuff we found that fuel leak and the dodgy gasket on the filter/pump so it was some strange form of preventative medicine too!!
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Old 22nd July 2017, 19:08   #17
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Blimey that is indeed a good fault...... bet you wont forget that in a hurry!!!!
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Old 22nd July 2017, 21:39   #18
VeeSix
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Blimey that is indeed a good fault...... bet you wont forget that in a hurry!!!!
Indeed, we knew the sensor was good (worked in the other car) so would never have touched it...just replaced everything else!
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