Engine stop rolling

[jymix]

I hope you don't doubt that I tried. I feel pumped into the void. remember that the intake manifold is not in place. Is what I have put the intake manifold before the test. In addition, I don't know how you manage to make a fitting cork or plastic to replace the spark plug. I hope you send me your champagne corks

Merry Christmas

[jymix]

I am changing my main belt distribution. Considering all the work of dismantling and reassembly, can someone tell me what I could check (other than the water pump that has only two years) related to my engine problem?
Help please

[kaiser]

Hi again.
The first thing to do, if you find yourself in a hole, is to stop digging!!

Have you got a good reason to change anything there? Have a look at the belt, does it look as if it could have slipped.

Anyway, if you go in there, replace all things with a bearing in it, or at least check them and re-grease. That would be the wheels and the pump. The pump does sometimes not last very long, and it might be a good idea to change that as well, just to be safe. Obviously the belt. That pretty much means that only the spring loaded tensioner remains. And just leave the front sprockets where they are, don't loosen them at all!

Apart from keeping the back sprockets on time, and pre adjusting the tensioner, there is nothing to it. (that means it is not that difficult, just awkward) The critical issue is the position of the back sprockets, so when all is done, and the belt in front has been fitted, the tensioner released, the markings on the rear sprockets must still align. Then turn the engine over by hand, and make sure the alignment remains when it has been turned a couple of times. Just a note, if you marked the front belt, don't expect the marks to align every turn of the engine, they won't.

As for the engine not starting, have you still got the old sensors etc that you replaced earlier?

[jymix]

Just because I don't know what to do and I still have the items of my kit distribution, when replacing small belts, and I said please consider to change the alternator and wide bets while waiting for help.
yes I still have the old sensors. Why?

Thanks Kaiser

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by jymix

Just because I don't know what to do and I still have the items of my kit distribution, when replacing small belts, and I said please consider to change the alternator and wide bets while waiting for help.
yes I still have the old sensors. Why?

Thanks Kaiser

I was just thinking.
Do you know if the old sensors were faulty?
Because otherwise you could try and replace the crank sensor, and see if the engine starts, and also the cam sensor, and see what happens.

You could also have a look at the coils (the ignition coils) to see if the spark is weak because of them.

As for the primary belt, let us know when it was changed and how it looks. But before you do any dis-assembly, just check and see if the tensioner is operational. That is the spring loaded thing at the bottom, which is supposed to keep the belt tight.

It has happened that people have not pre-adjusted this tensioner, and the belt has been too slack. It can then easier jump a tooth or more teeth.

As for your determination!!
Comme un bulldog anglais!

[mikes75]

If i was you I would get the starting issue sorted first before changing the belt.
Check the idle pulley not sure if thats in your kit but its usually best to replace it because if that breaks your in a whole heap of dog doody.

listen to kaiser he seems to know his stuff.

Mike

[jymix]

Originally Posted by kaiser

I was just thinking.
Do you know if the old sensors were faulty?
Because otherwise you could try and replace the crank sensor, and see if the engine starts, and also the cam sensor, and see what happens.

You could also have a look at the coils (the ignition coils) to see if the spark is weak because of them.

As for the primary belt, let us know when it was changed and how it looks. But before you do any dis-assembly, just check and see if the tensioner is operational. That is the spring loaded thing at the bottom, which is supposed to keep the belt tight.

It has happened that people have not pre-adjusted this tensioner, and the belt has been too slack. It can then easier jump a tooth or more teeth.

As for your determination!!
Comme un bulldog anglais!

The belt is in good condition and tight.
Except for the camshaft sensor which was changed 3 years ago, all other sensors that I changed were not tested because the engine didn't idle and emitted smoke before changing small belts.
juste une remarque: lors du dernier démarrage juste avant de changer les petites courroies, le collecteur d'admision contenait de la vapeur d'essence et d'huile. je pense que les joints verts des colecteurs sont usées.
Autre chose: j'ai essayé de faire le test de pression dans les cylindres à l'aide de mon pseudo compresseur de 3 bar; j'avais l'impression de souffler dans le vide. bien entendu, le test était fait en absence des collecteurs d'admission.....
Pour finir, les bobines semblent en bon état. mais dès que c'est possible, je vais effectuer le test de l'étincelle sur toutes les bougies. j'attendais la livraison de la courroie de l'alternateur, mais en vain.
Dès réception de cette courroie, je vais tout remonter et refaire les tests que tu préconises. La courroie de l'alternateur est vraiment usée. Elle n'a pas été changée depuis 6 ans...

c'est vrai qu'il y a beaucoup de ressemblance entre un bulldog anglais et moi

[kaiser]

If the belt is indeed in good condition and tight, it is unlikely to have caused any problem we have seen. I would leave it alone until we have found the problem! There is no reason to introduce more variables into the equation.
We can easily change them later!

If the sensors are generally in good order, then we can indeed try and replace one sensor at a time, to see if there is a change.

As for the green O-rings on the aluminium inlet manifolds? I have never heard of them getting worn. Can you see any damage? I have never changed mine, and I would think very few ever have.
But if there is any leak of oil into the manifold, it will smoke (blue smoke) and smell, and if there is a leak of air through a crack or indeed damaged O-rings (or anywhere else) the car will not idle. So it might be something we must consider.

If you blow into a cylinder, make sure both inlet and both exhaust valves are closed. That means that all cam lobes must point up, and away from the lifters below. In other words, they must not press the valves down.
I am not sure you can blow enough air into the cylinder to do a proper test. The best way is usually air from a compressor far away, so you can hear if air is coming out from the exhaust (exhaust valves not closing), or the inlet manifold (inlet valves damaged) or from the oil filler cap (piston kaput).

The belt for the alternator has nothing to do with the problem, so you can take that off the list. But do replace the belt, if worn, it just won't cure the problem!

Quant au chien, ha, ha. Voici une photo de notre petit. 100% chien! Très mignon et très fatigué sur cette photo!

[kaiser]

I am just starting to think of your plastic inlet manifold.
There is a very small sensor in the inlet. It is for measuring vacuum in the inlet tract, that determines the fuel supplied. It is the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. I damaged mine when I tried to clean my manifold. They don't like compressed air (in my case) when I tried to start the engine, it smoked black smoke, it smelled and it could hardly run. You can disconnect the plug (to test for that), and it should get much better, but not right.
I have heard of problems with air leaking at the VIS motors. Also causing problems with idle. (Variable Inlet System two motors to adjust the valves in the manifold, they sit in small boxes on the left side of the manifold, when you stand in front of the car looking at the engine.
As for the plastic manifold, has it been damaged or worked on? Are there any signs of anything broken? there are many pipes, which are supposed to suck oil mist from the engine and into the manifold, are they OK?

[jymix]

Before starting to make the engine start especially with the accelerator pedal, the intake manifold showed no abnormal signs. It was quite clean and dry. But little by little because of forced starts (motor not wanting to keep idle or run properly), he began to fill with gasoline vapor and water. in short, a kind of soup.
exhaust pipes of oil vapors are functional without being super condition. The MAP sensor is new

Mika est effectivement aussi fatigué que moi