How To - Integrated Sensor & Warning Light-Coolant level Expansion Tank-Low Line IP - Page 6

versus · 7th June 2017, 17:00

what you think about this simple GM Opel sensor? It looks much easier to fit and is not so expensive.

GBP 2.99 http://www.ebay.com/itm/172522924439...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

KWIL · 9th June 2017, 14:57

Just fitted the pin 10 wire and it does work on the Highline KV6 Petrol IPK (Feb 2002 IPK)

.

Delay is 18 secs from engine start. I will try sometime to find where this delay is set, however not a pressing need.

I also tried on my standalone IPK test rig (crude) but could not encourage it to work, hence pulled the IPK from the car and fitted the necessary wire!

Lovel · 9th June 2017, 15:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by KWIL

Just fitted the pin 10 wire and it does work on the Highline KV6 Petrol IPK (Feb 2002 IPK)

.

Delay is 18 secs from engine start. I will try sometime to find where this delay is set, however not a pressing need.

I also tried on my standalone IPK test rig (crude) but could not encourage it to work, hence pulled the IPK from the car and fitted the necessary wire!

Thanks for the update. I get 20secs time delay, but life is slower up here in neep land

Actually if you switch the ignition on and leave it for some time before turning over, when you start the engine the warning light comes on right away with almost no delay (diesel model).

vitesse · 9th June 2017, 16:45

Many thanks for your work, and sharing it with such a detailed description. I’m sure there is interest, you’ve got people from UK, France, Moldova, Estonia and now Sweden interested, it might just be that some people like me need a few more answers before we have a go ourselves.

I removed the beige tank from my donor today to have a good look at it but even out of the car in sunlight I couldn’t make out the outline of the baffle plate that needs reducing, my eyes perhaps but I don’t really trust myself handling a red hot screwdriver on a difficult to see surface. You advise against external sensor fitting and so I would prefer to remove the top of the tank, do I still need to reduce the baffle plate or is that just to aid sensor fitting?
Could you also advise what kind of glue you used to re-secure the top and where you sourced the U clips (love the belts and braces idea) a link if you have it please.

Regards

Lovel · 9th June 2017, 22:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by vitesse

Many thanks for your work, and sharing it with such a detailed description. I’m sure there is interest, you’ve got people from UK, France, Moldova, Estonia and now Sweden interested, it might just be that some people like me need a few more answers before we have a go ourselves.

I removed the beige tank from my donor today to have a good look at it but even out of the car in sunlight I couldn’t make out the outline of the baffle plate that needs reducing, my eyes perhaps but I don’t really trust myself handling a red hot screwdriver on a difficult to see surface. You advise against external sensor fitting and so I would prefer to remove the top of the tank, do I still need to reduce the baffle plate or is that just to aid sensor fitting?
Could you also advise what kind of glue you used to re-secure the top and where you sourced the U clips (love the belts and braces idea) a link if you have it please.

Regards

I wouldn't advise removing the top of the tank. The material it is made from is difficult to bond with a suitable adhesive. Hence you will see in the photos I attached I had to mechanically hold the tank lid too with U-clips, however I am not convinced about the longevity of the bond at temperature. I pressure tested but not temp tested. the photos in post #56 show the glue type I used, but again the bond is not the strongest.
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...5&postcount=56

Lovel · 18th August 2017, 15:26

Some 4,000 miles later and all working well.

Quantity of sensors in stock have gone down from 180 to 135 on the TME website, so someone must be fitting them.

No spurious lights coming on. Coolant level is bang on and maintained at high mark of the tank.

I still check coolant at regular intervals as I would on any vehicle, but at least if there is catastrophic failure of a hose for example while driving the early low level warning light will be triggered early on by a mere loss of 120cc fluid giving a high level of protection from an overheat situation.

The low level warning light is right in the drivers eye line view and I believe superior to any other device such as monitoring a digital temperature gauge which is a distraction to concentrating on observing the road ahead.

Yorkshire GOC · 18th August 2017, 16:12

[QUOTE=Lovel;2464105]My original question in the following thread is now irrelevant. Hence change in thread title. However if you scroll on to post #33 I posted a how to fit an internal coolant level sensor and hook it up to a low line IPK as Rover had intended to but somehow omitted it. High line IPK with trip computer now included in how to. Rev02.

Hello,

Must be me but i cannot find the How To fix up a coolant level sensor for the High Line IPK - can any one post a link please.

HarryM1BYT · 18th August 2017, 17:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yorkshire GOC

Hello,

Must be me but i cannot find the How To fix up a coolant level sensor for the High Line IPK - can any one post a link please.

That is because the method is exactly the same. There is no difference between the Low Line and High Line IPK install, it just works once installed and wired up. No coding needed, just the work as described.

HarryM1BYT · 18th August 2017, 17:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovel

Just completed install of a sensor on my diesel tourer this afternoon, and to put things into perspective.

A loss of 120ml coolant is all that it takes to trigger from the HIGH mark.

Could I suggest it might make better economic sense and ease of collecting the parts together if someone were to volunteer to bulk buy and offer the parts as a kit? Sensor, plugs needed and maybe the wire

The more you buy, the cheaper and some parts like plugs can only be had in larger quantities anyway then there is postage on top.

HarryM1BYT · 31st August 2017, 13:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

Could I suggest it might make better economic sense and ease of collecting the parts together if someone were to volunteer to bulk buy and offer the parts as a kit? Sensor, plugs needed and maybe the wire

The more you buy, the cheaper and some parts like plugs can only be had in larger quantities anyway then there is postage on top.

Bump!

Come on guys, someone must be just chomping at the bit to volunteer to put a kit of parts together for this..

I would probably buy one.

18th August 2017, 16:12	#57
Yorkshire GOC I really should get out more....... Rover 75 connoisseur se v6 auto Join Date: May 2014 Location: Hull Posts: 2,069 Thanks: 1,842 Thanked 623 Times in 469 Posts	[QUOTE=Lovel;2464105]My original question in the following thread is now irrelevant. Hence change in thread title. However if you scroll on to post #33 I posted a how to fit an internal coolant level sensor and hook it up to a low line IPK as Rover had intended to but somehow omitted it. High line IPK with trip computer now included in how to. Rev02. Hello, Must be me but i cannot find the How To fix up a coolant level sensor for the High Line IPK - can any one post a link please. __________________ She came off the Longbridge Line on 20-05-2003 The Silver Machine was the 13th of 160 Rover 75's to come off the production line that day and is the 100th of 527 Starlight Silver Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto saloons listed in the build records produced world wide.

7th June 2017, 17:00	#51
versus Posted a thing or two Rover 75 V6 Auto, 2000 year Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Chisinau, Moldova Posts: 1,506 Thanks: 389 Thanked 273 Times in 211 Posts	what you think about this simple GM Opel sensor? It looks much easier to fit and is not so expensive. GBP 2.99 http://www.ebay.com/itm/172522924439...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

9th June 2017, 14:57	#52
KWIL Precise Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Fleet Posts: 2,954 Thanks: 630 Thanked 617 Times in 480 Posts	Just fitted the pin 10 wire and it does work on the Highline KV6 Petrol IPK (Feb 2002 IPK) . Delay is 18 secs from engine start. I will try sometime to find where this delay is set, however not a pressing need. I also tried on my standalone IPK test rig (crude) but could not encourage it to work, hence pulled the IPK from the car and fitted the necessary wire!

9th June 2017, 16:45	#54
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,537 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	Many thanks for your work, and sharing it with such a detailed description. I’m sure there is interest, you’ve got people from UK, France, Moldova, Estonia and now Sweden interested, it might just be that some people like me need a few more answers before we have a go ourselves. I removed the beige tank from my donor today to have a good look at it but even out of the car in sunlight I couldn’t make out the outline of the baffle plate that needs reducing, my eyes perhaps but I don’t really trust myself handling a red hot screwdriver on a difficult to see surface. You advise against external sensor fitting and so I would prefer to remove the top of the tank, do I still need to reduce the baffle plate or is that just to aid sensor fitting? Could you also advise what kind of glue you used to re-secure the top and where you sourced the U clips (love the belts and braces idea) a link if you have it please. Regards

18th August 2017, 15:26	#56
Lovel I really should get out more....... P6B, L550, Imp, F56, Commando Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 2,886 Thanks: 352 Thanked 677 Times in 440 Posts	Some 4,000 miles later and all working well. Quantity of sensors in stock have gone down from 180 to 135 on the TME website, so someone must be fitting them. No spurious lights coming on. Coolant level is bang on and maintained at high mark of the tank. I still check coolant at regular intervals as I would on any vehicle, but at least if there is catastrophic failure of a hose for example while driving the early low level warning light will be triggered early on by a mere loss of 120cc fluid giving a high level of protection from an overheat situation. The low level warning light is right in the drivers eye line view and I believe superior to any other device such as monitoring a digital temperature gauge which is a distraction to concentrating on observing the road ahead.