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Old 21st September 2018, 12:23   #1
MWMan
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Default 2.5 V6 Alternator Change

Having refurbished a 2nd hand alternator I bought off the Bay (new bearings, and brush pack), I decided to remove the old one on the car, and fit my refurbished one. The instructions in the Rover Workshop Manual are pretty good, but I like to keep a photo heavy record of how I did it, in case I have to do again in the future.

I have attached a pdf of the procedure. It may help anyone else who is planning to do it.

Its a bit of a trial, just to get an alternator off of a car. The first time I did this a couple of months ago, it took me around 5 hours start to finish. When I did it this time, it was just over 2 hours.
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File Type: pdf Alternator Change.pdf (1.58 MB, 68 views)
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Old 21st September 2018, 12:55   #2
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Most of the work is just to loosen the belt LOL
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Old 21st September 2018, 21:38   #3
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You will love doing a diesel one then!
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Old 22nd September 2018, 10:06   #4
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Quote:
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You will love doing a diesel one then!
10 mins tops ....... what you moaning about ?
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Old 22nd September 2018, 20:44   #5
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10 mins tops ....... what you moaning about ?
Lol, that would be nice
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Old 26th April 2022, 14:30   #6
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In the guide you take of the wheel arch liner to access the 2 lower bolts of the lower engine mountig bracket, but these bolts can also be taken of from beneath the car. For me, the wheel arch lining hadn't been taken of in ages, meaning that safely unplugging all the plastic fasteners was actually more work than undoing the bolts from the bottom. It takes a bit of time to find them, but once you do unbolting them isn't that much work. When putting the engine mounting bracket back in, the bolts can be hand-tightend suprisingly far, meaning you only have to wrench a little bit.


All in all, if you can get the wheel arch lining off quickly and without destroying any plugs, that will probably be more easy. Just wanted to inform anyone also doing this procedure that it is not required, and that it is also pretty easy to do with the wheel arch lining on.


Also, when the lower engine mounting bracket is unbolted, you should also have enough room towards the front of the car to just put it to the side (instead of removing the power steering line and taking it fully out of the engine bay). Additionally, I put a wrench on the base of the terminatal connector while undoing the bolt to prevent the connector from breaking

Last edited by Savestones; 26th April 2022 at 14:35..
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