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Old 9th September 2018, 10:03   #21
Sheraton
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How'do folks,

a Closer inspection to my Eyes/Fingers suggests no damage to the Bore of the Liners.

Liners seem Flush with the Block - though Not Sunken.


I've messaged Duncan (CossieDunc) and he is happy to have a look

Brian - pm sent r.e Piston/Rod/Liner if these are available I'd be happy to purchase.


I also have been considering the Brand New Pistons/Liners as an option - shiny just looks better


just awaiting confirmation on a couple of details - then i can decide which way i'll be going


Paul.
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Old 13th September 2018, 18:27   #22
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How'do folks

I managed to get some more parts ordered - A new Genuine MG/Rover Sump Gasket - I only found 1 Genuine part available that said I never kept looking after I ordered

and I ordered some new Exhaust/Turbo Studs/Bolts and Bolts for securing the front ARB Bushes

so obviously Not Giving Up

I also managed to remove some more Hoses/Piping - Jubilee Clips in some awkward positions made it a wee bit of a challenge - and I had a first inspection of the Turbo.

r.e the Turbo - I had a wee bit of Oil on the Intake side - Would a little be acceptable/Normal ? - would it be residue from the Engine Breather Hose ?

I couldn't feel any play in the Turbo Shaft and it seemed to spin freely - So i'm hoping I don't have to change the Core


the plan is to have just the Damaged Piston/Rod/Liner replaced - rather than New Pistons on Existing Rods.



Would it be Safer/Better to refit the Head while the Car is sitting and for moving the Car onto a Trailer/Flatbed ?


Paul.
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Old 13th September 2018, 19:55   #23
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How'do folks

I managed to get some more parts ordered - A new Genuine MG/Rover Sump Gasket - I only found 1 Genuine part available that said I never kept looking after I ordered

and I ordered some new Exhaust/Turbo Studs/Bolts and Bolts for securing the front ARB Bushes

so obviously Not Giving Up

I also managed to remove some more Hoses/Piping - Jubilee Clips in some awkward positions made it a wee bit of a challenge - and I had a first inspection of the Turbo.

r.e the Turbo - I had a wee bit of Oil on the Intake side - Would a little be acceptable/Normal ? - would it be residue from the Engine Breather Hose ?

I couldn't feel any play in the Turbo Shaft and it seemed to spin freely - So i'm hoping I don't have to change the Core


the plan is to have just the Damaged Piston/Rod/Liner replaced - rather than New Pistons on Existing Rods.



Would it be Safer/Better to refit the Head while the Car is sitting and for moving the Car onto a Trailer/Flatbed ?


Paul.
I will be removing a piston and rod at the weekend for you Paul, If you are refitting the head, do so with a couple of bolts and the old gasket just to stop crud getting into places it shouldn't

Brian
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Old 13th September 2018, 21:03   #24
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I will be removing a piston and rod at the weekend for you Paul, If you are refitting the head, do so with a couple of bolts and the old gasket just to stop crud getting into places it shouldn't

Brian


Cheers Brian it's appreciated more than I can express

I'll make sure your efforts are Not In Vain - at this stage the Car WILL be back on the Road No matter what needs done


I'm Going to do a bit of Cleaning to the Block - Get rid of all the Oil residue - I have New Gaskets for the Dipstick tube, Turbo Oil Return - and Oil Pump Gasket, i need an Oil seal if I replace this....probably and I have a New Gasket for the Oil Filter adapter plate(?) to Block I don't think there are any issues with this so probably leave this one as is


I have some Blue Paper Towel covering the Cylinders/top of the Block for Now - I'll refit the Head with a couple of Bolts for some piece of mind it seems a bit Vulnerable sitting at the end of the street "all Opened up"



A couple of other things have lined up in my favour So we'll see how it Goes from here - it will be All worth it I'm sure




Paul.
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Old 13th September 2018, 21:53   #25
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In my case the Damage was caused after the Timing Belt Jumped - Valve/Piston Contact is the Sure Cause here - I know the moment it happened too - the Missing Material also explains why my Spark Plug Gap was reduced way back when i was first diagnosing the slipped belt (seems a while ago now) the Car drove Well like this for at least 350 miles since and was running well until i pulled it to bits - I was Nursing the Car and the Engine wasn't 100%.... obviously


My Liners appear Flush - I don't have any suggestion it's been an issue with the previous Gasket fitted - which is a Blue Elastomer type - not sure if it may be a Payen I can't remember what i purchased when it was replaced... - I'm happy to go with flush Liners/Elastomer Gasket which IS Payen this time



Paul.
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Old 6th November 2018, 20:31   #26
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How'do Folks

I'm still not out of the Game on this one yet

my Plan of action has changed - the Car is registered with a SORN, no MOT, still Insured and Parked on Private Ground I had panicked a wee bit initially upon missing MOT renewal and thought i'd be forced to call it a day - but I think All is Well and "Above Board" legally


I've also decided to Have a Go Installing New Pistons/Liners Using the existing Connecting Rods we'll see how well that Goes

I received a Complete set from Yenmak - after a bit of consideration, these seemed the best option for me - they(Pistons) are sold as Specific for the 1.8t only - I noticed other suppliers offer Pistons for the 1.8 K-series that suggest the Pistons are Universal across the 1.8 N/A, Turbo and VVC range ??




(I have a set of Four Pistons/Rings/Pins/Liners )

I need to get myself some Ramps before I can think about tackling this - and I'm currently planning to purchase a cheap Hydraulic Press to aid in the removal of the Gudgeon Pins - tho it's not a Great expense I may take a few weeks to be able to afford the bits required it's that time of year

I don't think i'll need to leave the New Pins in the Freezer before Install tho - it should be Cold enough here by then


I'm enjoying the Journey Again regardless of where it Ends it will be an Experience I can draw upon in the Future



Paul.

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Old 7th November 2018, 00:35   #27
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I'm only just starting to chalk up my experience - I do take encouragement when i see posts from yourself (among others) detailing your Maintenance/Repair undertakings


r.e Liners - my Existing Liners are sitting almost flush, just a fraction proud - as I have no Issues to suggest any problems with the Headgasket seal I'll be happy to fit new Liners.


the only thing r.e Cylinder Liner Shims that concerns me - might there be a reason Rimmers stock K-Series Cylinder Liner Shims but don't offer them as a part for the 1.8t ??

just something I noticed that may be worth considering/investigating further

Rimmers may Not be the final word - However they seem more on the ball than some other suppliers who seem to believe the 1.8 and 1.8t use all the same spec parts


a bit like the revised torquing sequence of 20nmx180x135 degrees when fitting high Tensile 10.9 head Bolts - I've found no info or evidence to suggest that this was ever an official revision

my Payen Bolts (10.9) state 20nmx90x90x90x90 Good enough for me.




Paul.
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Old 7th November 2018, 00:50   #28
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cheers John

I'm only just starting to chalk up my experience - I do take encouragement when i see posts from yourself (among others) detailing your Maintenance/Repair undertakings


r.e Liners - my Existing Liners are sitting almost flush, just a fraction proud - as I have no Issues to suggest any problems with the Headgasket seal I'll be happy to fit new Liners.


the only thing r.e Cylinder Liner Shims that concerns me - might there be a reason Rimmers stock K-Series Cylinder Liner Shims but don't offer them as a part for the 1.8t ??

just something I noticed that may be worth considering/investigating further

Rimmers may Not be the final word - However they seem more on the ball than some other suppliers who seem to believe the 1.8 and 1.8t use all the same spec parts ??


a bit like the revised torquing sequence of 20nmx180x135 degrees when fitting high Tensile 10.9 head Bolts - I've found no info or evidence to suggest that this was ever an official revision

my Payen Bolts (10.9) state 20nmx90x90x90x90 Good enough for me.




Paul.
Paul, you can't press out the gudgeon pins, the little ends need to be heated to remove them.

Similarly to refit I machined up a puller, but Gary has an even easier technique using a rawlbolt and a tap wrench.

You need to cool the gudgeon pins in the freezer, and heat the rods, I used an old deep fat fryer for this, as it's quite easy to regulate the temperature.

It should be noted it's a one shot pony doing this, get it wrong and you will have to cut the new piston off, and start again.

I always approach this job with trepidation, and I've done a few now.

By the way I posted that piston up in a small parcel with RM second class for cheapness, looks like that's well and truly disappeared then, as it went off weeks ago

I still have three pistons on rods if you'd like some practice, or one simply to fit to your existing engine.

I would save the new pistons liners and cylinder head until you source a decent block.

Brian
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Old 7th November 2018, 01:50   #29
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Paul, you can't press out the gudgeon pins, the little ends need to be heated to remove them.

Similarly to refit I machined up a puller, but Gary has an even easier technique using a rawlbolt and a tap wrench.

You need to cool the gudgeon pins in the freezer, and heat the rods, I used an old deep fat fryer for this, as it's quite easy to regulate the temperature.

It should be noted it's a one shot pony doing this, get it wrong and you will have to cut the new piston off, and start again.

I always approach this job with trepidation, and I've done a few now.

By the way I posted that piston up in a small parcel with RM second class for cheapness, looks like that's well and truly disappeared then, as it went off weeks ago

I still have three pistons on rods if you'd like some practice, or one simply to fit to your existing engine.

I would save the new pistons liners and cylinder head until you source a decent block.

Brian



How'do Brian - the plan I had in mind was to remove the old Pistons with a Hacksaw as suggested by Lovel (Gary?) - then Heat the "Small End" and use the Press to remove the existing Gudgeon Pin - Unless I'm missing something I can't see why this won't work

How are the Pins removed if Not pressed out ?


I have researched to the point i'm confident of what's involved r.e installing new Pins - I'm fully aware of the potential for getting it wrong (as highlighted by Gary recently on another thread) - I'd actually rather attempt this myself than trust it to someone else - unless someone has the factory set-up

at least if I make a James Hu.....Mess of it - I can only blame myself - plus it's not too big a deal if I do.

not that i'm taking the process lightly - I'll have everything crossed and all the Wood i can find touched

at this stage I'm continuing with the Car purely for the Experience - with the Hope that the Piston damage is the only Issue to address before buttoning it all back up

when I have the Pistons/Rods removed i'll consider what to do r.e some form of Jig/Guide for "attempting" to fit the New Pins - and, if my bottle crashes - Redmans who supplied the New Pistons/Liners do a fitting service as a Backup at least if they mess up on the install of new Pins they'll have replacement parts and be obliged to replace them


Brian - I feel bad that you've gone to the effort of removing and posting Parts only for them to go undelivered i don't think much can be done r.e chasing up RoyalMail If you are happy to P.M me details I'll be happy to reimburse you for Parts/Postage and your time even your address if you'd prefer a Postal Order (you can still get these right?)



Paul.
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Old 18th November 2018, 02:37   #30
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How'do folks

a wee progress update


I managed to pick up a pair of Car ramps (Halfords new design Ramps which I like ) - myself and my Brother in law managed to push the Car onto the Ramps in the dark last night just to see if it was going to be possible - today we moved the Car to a better location in the Parking area and got help from a couple of the local Young Team to make it a bit easier/safer to push onto the ramps

I've got the old Pistons/Rods/Liners removed - the Plan Now is to send the Old Pistons/Rods along with the New Pistons Back to Redmans and take advantage of their fitting service it's the best option for me all things considered


I've Numbered, Oriented and Separately stored the old Parts for each Cylinder - I'm happy with what I encountered upon Sump, Piston/Rod/Liner removal today I can see no Evidence of any Issues other than the Piston Damage - Liners were sitting proud enough of the block, not much however I'm confident all was fine prior to removing the Cylinder Head r.e sealing of the Headgasket with the Elastomer Gasket that was fitted. all seems to be fine at the Big End - to my "first timer" eyes anyway

So, I'm Happy that the Car will be back on the Road "Relatively" Soon - I'll hopefully have the Parts posted by Courier on Monday and maybe even have them back for Next weekend


it was Good to gain my first experience working under my Car with Ramps - these are a Good investment for sure



Paul.
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