Filters

[coolcat]

Hi guys,

I'm looking for some suggestions for a big stopper nd10 filter and a graduated filter.

Don't know whether to go for screw in or slot in type for these.
They need to mount to a 77mm filter thread and I don't want to go bananas on cost.

They will be used for mainly turning water smooth in daylight situations for the big stopper and for sunsets with the grad.

Open to suggestions on good quality without spending mega bucks

P.s, they will mainly be used on my 16-35L F4 but also my 24-105L F4 and 70-200L F2.8 .

[Ravinder]

I use this ND big stopper filter, which was recommended to me by my photographer friend. It works great and for the price, I can't complain. It's a screw on one.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neutral-Den...ywords=ND+1000

I have these cheaper grad filter also. They're OK, but they do scratch and get dirty quite easily. I hope to eventually buy some high quality Lee filters further down the line, but to start off with, they're not too bad.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The filters do give colour cast but that is normal. Some of the high end ones have reduced colour cast but then obviously you're paying big money for them. If you shoot in RAW, it's not so much an issue anyway as you can correct this during post production.

[clf]

I used to recommend people buy expensive filters at the largest size available, and buy step down rings to suit. eg a 77mm filter with a 77-72mm step down ring. But since you have the 77mm lol. Hoya Pro range were always good for their screw in filters, and Lee for drop in. Lee filter systems can be quite expensive but are extremely well made, the Cokin system however, all plastic, yields great results. If you are not going to use it often, or just wish to experiment, try a piece of welding glass. Pick one up for a quid on eBay, and then create a custom white balance setting in camera when you go to use it

The draw back with drop in filters has always been the risk of damage and finger prints. Digital now largely has ruined the drop in market. In fact I wouldnt recommend using a coloured filter at all. If you are thinking of an ND grad for sunsets, I assume you are considering a range of +1 to +3 grads for this. Again Lee are generally regarded as the best, however Cokin are still great on a budget.

Personally I never liked using drop in filters for sunset/sky shots. Simply because more often than not, there would be something at the horizon, trees, buildings and such. With a drop in grad filter, the gradient was horizontal and straight, and could cause those objects to become partially darkened. My own preference was to use photoshop. The majority if not all, of shots I would consider a drop in filter would involve using a tripod and remote release. So I would shoot two shots, one exposing for the sky, with another for the foreground. Sometimes I would shoot three or four shots for the sky. Keeping the focal point, aperture and sensitivity the same throughout, but adjusting the shutter speed. This means focus and DoF remains constant throughout, and it is a simple case of layering, erasing and using the blend options in Photoshop. The lighting of any objects within the shot would remain constant too.


EDIT, let me be mischievous with your wallet here Jeff Now that you are considering the big stopper, have you considered a IR filter too he he

[Rocket]

My experience of filters is slightly higher than 0. I did buy a cheap ND filter to do a few water shots. I can see a use for a polarizing filter but it is not something I have needed for my type of shots. I tend to do most other tweaks in post. So not much help I am afraid.

I did enjoy using the ND filter for the water shots. Note to self - must do this again.

[coolcat]

Thanks Rav and Alan,

To expand somewhat on my original question .
All of my lenses have Hoya Pro UV filters attatched to them.
I know opinion is divided on using them but I would far rather protect and weather seal my lenses being that all of them are L glass.

I carry a Hoya polarising filter and Hoya ND4 filter but really want a big stopper to play with some daylight long exposures on our beaches here in Sunny Clacton.

I understand what you say regarding the graduated filters Alan and fully agree but I would think a Grad will work well with seascapes with a nice straight/horizontal horizon, thus easing my editing later

I used to have a Cokin filter system back in my film days (oh how I used to over use my starlight filter ) but really want something of higher quality to reflect the glass they will be used with.

I think I want drop in filters and hope I can get away with using them without removing the UV filter.
I like the Lee filters but they are rather pricy for occasional use only.

Is there anything a cut above Cokin but cheaper then Lee in drop in filters that can be recommended ?

Not really into infra red stuff, bit too surreal looking for me..........however, never say never

Cheers for the advice so far

[coolcat]

Originally Posted by Rocket

My experience of filters is slightly higher than 0. I did buy a cheap ND filter to do a few water shots. I can see a use for a polarizing filter but it is not something I have needed for my type of shots. I tend to do most other tweaks in post. So not much help I am afraid.

I did enjoy using the ND filter for the water shots. Note to self - must do this again.

What ND filter did you use Paul ?

[Rocket]

Originally Posted by coolcat

What ND filter did you use Paul ?

As I was a complete newcomer to ND filters I just bought a cheap ebay one. It is adjustable but I can see small scratches on it already. So if I bought another it would be of higher quality.

Edit: just looked and it is a Fotga variable type - works ok but easily scratched.

[coolcat]

Originally Posted by Rocket

As I was a complete newcomer to ND filters I just bought a cheap ebay one. It is adjustable but I can see small scratches on it already. So if I bought another it would be of higher quality.

I had seen some of those adjustable ones but they do seem to be cheaper brands.

I think if I go for a drop in system I can always keep the holder and upgrade the filters that slot in it should I need .

I'm just struggling to find products between silly cheap and hugely expensive .
There seems to be a vast gap and hoping I can find a product that sits in that gap

[Rocket]

Originally Posted by coolcat

I had seen some of those adjustable ones but they do seem to be cheaper brands.

I think if I go for a drop in system I can always keep the holder and upgrade the filters that slot in it should I need .

I'm just struggling to find products between silly cheap and hugely expensive .
There seems to be a vast gap and hoping I can find a product that sits in that gap

That seems a good plan if you can find the right one. The better ones can be quite expensive for something that will get little use (for me)

I may have done my one an injustice. It has 1 very small scratch and is still very usable. Cost seems to be £5 to £10.

I think I did a bit of research before buying the Fotga. It seems to a pretty good product for the price. So for anyone looking to try a ND filter for the first time it is maybe a good option. Lots of reviews etc on Google. Like this -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmURbQOk3tM

I am sure there are better ones on the market but none the less it is great bang for the buck.

[clf]

Hi Jeff, I dont normally like typing within quotes but I will to hopefully keep it in context.

Originally Posted by coolcat

Thanks Rav and Alan,

To expand somewhat on my original question .
All of my lenses have Hoya Pro UV filters attatched to them.
I know opinion is divided on using them but I would far rather protect and weather seal my lenses being that all of them are L glass.
Hoya Pro filters are really hard to beat. Keep them on, but remove now and again for a clean (I know you will know that anyway, am just putting it out there lol). The L range of lenses are already weather sealed anyway though . Dont be frightened to take them off now and again when you are shooting something really critical, especially macro

I carry a Hoya polarising filter and Hoya ND4 filter but really want a big stopper to play with some daylight long exposures on our beaches here in Sunny Clacton. Perfect quality filters, however, the Hoya polarisor is effectively a 2 stopper in its own right, particularly with water, I would use it instead of the ND4, also a two stop. Making sure they are meticulously clean, again dont be frightened of doubling up with them to give 4 stops. However be aware, on your 16-35 you may get vignetting

I understand what you say regarding the graduated filters Alan and fully agree but I would think a Grad will work well with seascapes with a nice straight/horizontal horizon, thus easing my editing later I never though of your location lol, however I would still suggest to try the layering with at least two images. It is a simple and quick edit, because you are removing a lot of sky in one edit.

I used to have a Cokin filter system back in my film days (oh how I used to over use my starlight filter ) but really want something of higher quality to reflect the glass they will be used with. The magic word, reflect. Using any filter, (again I know you know this) will potentially reflect or introduce flaws into the shot, eg a speck of dust, on a bright day could get reflected infinitely between the outer layer of the lens and the inner layer of the filter. Lee would be the only alternative that I can think of with a proven record of quality. Cokin do produce a Pro range also, which is slightly larger, the standard P system, I think only allows up to 77mm thread size. the Pro range was around 50% more expensive over the P if I recall, and allowed up to 86mm threads. Reading the literature on it at the time, it was made to a higher standard. However, I have not used them, and only saw them in their sealed packing when specially ordered for customers. Even for L use, the Cokin system, personally I think is more than adequate for occasional.

I think I want drop in filters and hope I can get away with using them without removing the UV filter. I would always advise removing the UV filter when using any special effect filter for the reasons mentioned above. You are careful and protective of your lenses, and with the drop in mount it will still give a little protection to the lens anyway.Keeping the UV attached, will almost certainly give strange vignetting on your wide angle shots, even on the 24-105mm
I like the Lee filters but they are rather pricy for occasional use only.

Is there anything a cut above Cokin but cheaper then Lee in drop in filters that can be recommended ? see above

Not really into infra red stuff, bit too surreal looking for me..........however, never say never lol, I have only used my filter about three times, with disastrous results lol. I will have to play with it again, when I get time. But I do love the monochrome shots of landscapes. (I still have an IR film in the fridge waiting for that time when I am ready, exp 2007! lol)

Cheers for the advice so far

The big problem with filters is dirt and dust. Sometimes it is unavoidable, of course, but this is where digital really comes into its own. On really sunny days, I will remove my UV filter, especially when using my L lens, to try to eliminate potential flare as much as possible, shooting naked I call it . Circular polarising effects are nearly impossible to create in editing, so I will use it (in place of a UV of course).

I gave away my ND grads to an ex colleague who uses mainly film, because as I mentioned in the past, I would blend two or more shots using PS. I also under expose most of my shots by 1/3, knowing lightroom will recover them safely, but also giving me the option too, to create two or three shots from the one if there is a lot of dynamic range in the shot. Sometimes effectively being 3 stops for the sky, 1 or 2 stops for the mid foreground, and nothing for the foreground. A digital ND multi grad if you like. The only one I have found that I couldnt create digitally, was the big stopper (I would use PS/Lightroom to allow me to play with 3 stops of light - which is normally adequate for landscapes). Like you with the IR filter, I am not keen on its effect, however I do see its attraction, and the only way I know of achieving its effect is by using one. I have seen it done, blending and blurring many shots together (around 20!), but it is very very time consuming and sometimes jarring in its effect.