Heater Lukewarm - Tried Everything! - Page 2

marinabrian · 16th November 2015, 18:50

Bet you haven't tried everything

What you need to do is remove the header tank and hold it aloft with the small pipe disconnected.

Fill the header tank until you have clear coolant running from the small pipe, then lower and refit the hose.

Start the car, you should have a constant stream of coolant jetting from the hole in the tank neck positioned at 11 O'Clock.

Now run it up to temperature and check you still have the return water visible.

Brian

COLVERT · 17th November 2015, 19:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Bet you haven't tried everything

What you need to do is remove the header tank and hold it aloft with the small pipe disconnected.

Fill the header tank until you have clear coolant running from the small pipe, then lower and refit the hose.

Start the car, you should have a constant stream of coolant jetting from the hole in the tank neck positioned at 11 O'Clock.

Now run it up to temperature and check you still have the return water visible.

Brian

Normally Brian, you don't need to do this with the diesel engine. It seems to quite happily purge itself with the use of the small valve on a heater hose.--

first-things-first · 17th November 2015, 22:19

As you have a late model 75, is it automatic? If so, you should have another bleed screw on the EGR.

Mine was harder to bleed using the FBH bleed screw until I found this extra bleed screw. Thanks to Rich for the piccie.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1&postcount=25

Before finding the EGR bleed screw, I used an extra header tank using a milk carton and an elastic band (to seal the header tank neck) to make sure it bled the FBH pipe. Raising the header tank did not do it for me. Brian's trick may well have worked just as well.

RogerHeinz57 · 18th November 2015, 07:23

I do like Brian's idea, but a little bulky !

Anyhow, there is another side to this. I was asked to check the heater on a 2.5 V6, which had everything done as well. The matrix had been replaced with a pattern part which looker quite a gash affair. It was missing the insular foams from the ends, this contributed to the loss of heat moving into the heater box because the heat was being lost into the centre console. This item was removed and replaced with a matrix that had been de-scaled. All fitted up and bled through to achieve a top result - heat both sides and in an abundance.
So worth trying to remember if it was just a matrix with no foams or not ! No sealing foams - no heat whatever you do.............

Hope this helps.
JohnH.

roverretro · 16th December 2015, 15:19

go to search type in matrix the look for (air lock ) user name (roverretro) the 75 has a heck of a lot of air traps and the rubbish plastic bleed nut is not gouing to work rover know that just want to charge£££££££ to pressure bleed I converted mine to a tap that bleeds back in res tank hope you get it sorted soon coz its getting might cold cheers chris

roverretro · 16th December 2015, 15:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt1356

The story so far:

I inherited a Rover 75 CDTi from my father about two years ago. Ever since I have owned the car I've been unhappy with the heater, it just doesn't feel 'toastie' like the other cars I have owned. My 1992 Ford Escort 1.8 gets much hotter for example. About a year ago I put it into the garage to have it checked over, mentioning the common blocked heater matrix fault. They replaced the original thermostat and flushed out the system but could find nothing wrong. When I got the car back it still wasn't toastie like I'd expect. I therefore decided that the only economical way to get to the bottom of the issue was to take a look at it myself:

1) I bought an aftermarket replacement matrix off eBay from a popular seller. After several hours of fiddling with the poorly designed pipe connections I modded it to use the popular rubber hose pipe solution. Matrix back in car, coolant topped up, ran the car for 20 mins with radiator cap off to get any air out. Put cap back on, took car for 30 min drive, no difference. Heater lukewarm, warmer on drivers side than passenger side. Car back on the driveway, checked pipes leading to, from matrix, very hot!!! Ran car in diagnostic mode and noticed that engine temperature was running at 84c.

2) Decided to fit an inline thermostat from DMGRS, checked diagnostics, engine now running at a steady 87c. Heater still the same, again ran with radiator cap off to remove air, replaced cap, ran with air bleed valve open just to be sure.

Heater is still the same, it does get warm, just not toastie. It is also still very slightly warmer on the drivers side than the passengers. All heater controls such as the one which mixes with the outside air seem to work as expected. Is there anything else I can try or am I just being fussy, is this just the way these cars are? Looking at the design of the heating system I can understand why there is a difference in heat between the passenger/driver side but I still expect the overall temp to be higher!!!

I've lost all motivation to do anymore work on this at the moment but would still like some suggestions for when my motivation returns

P.S. The car has a/c but no climate control.

search for matrix (air lock roverretro

roverretro · 16th December 2015, 15:27

search matrix (rover retro) username

T-Cut · 16th December 2015, 16:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverretro

search matrix (rover retro) username

That simply loops back to this thread. (??)

I think I found what you mean, but in the News Bulletins/Discussion forum (?)

Click: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=232895

TC

SD1too · 16th December 2015, 16:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverretro

... the 75 has a heck of a lot of air traps and the rubbish plastic bleed nut is not gouing to work ...

I follow the procedure in MG Rover's official workshop manual and it's always worked foir me.

From my experience of helping people eliminate air locks, it's often the case that they are unaware of the correct procedure, and once carried out to the letter their problems are solved.

Quote:

... rover know that just want to charge£££££££ to pressure bleed ...

That's not true Chris. The MG Rover manual contains both methods: with and without pressure bleeding equipment. Haynes also describes the conventional method so this is available to anyone for a fraction of the price of an hour's labour.

Simon

willster · 16th December 2015, 19:39

I would suggest removing your inline stat possibly, I had airlock problems with mine till I did this, my inline stat wasn't opening so no coolant was dribbling out the small pipe in the header tank. I took it out completely and again followed the official bleed procedure and the heaters got nice and hot again, I then re fitted a new inline stat and all is well. My problems were following a coolant change, have you done any jobs on the car recently that may have caused this?

16th November 2015, 18:50	#11
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	Bet you haven't tried everything What you need to do is remove the header tank and hold it aloft with the small pipe disconnected. Fill the header tank until you have clear coolant running from the small pipe, then lower and refit the hose. Start the car, you should have a constant stream of coolant jetting from the hole in the tank neck positioned at 11 O'Clock. Now run it up to temperature and check you still have the return water visible. Brian

17th November 2015, 22:19	#13
first-things-first Posted a thing or two MG ZT Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Hornchurch Posts: 1,255 Thanks: 176 Thanked 352 Times in 272 Posts	As you have a late model 75, is it automatic? If so, you should have another bleed screw on the EGR. Mine was harder to bleed using the FBH bleed screw until I found this extra bleed screw. Thanks to Rich for the piccie. http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1&postcount=25 Before finding the EGR bleed screw, I used an extra header tank using a milk carton and an elastic band (to seal the header tank neck) to make sure it bled the FBH pipe. Raising the header tank did not do it for me. Brian's trick may well have worked just as well.

18th November 2015, 07:23	#14
RogerHeinz57 I really should get out more....... A Reasonably Priced Car Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Burton Latimer Posts: 2,530 Thanks: 408 Thanked 1,064 Times in 712 Posts	I do like Brian's idea, but a little bulky ! Anyhow, there is another side to this. I was asked to check the heater on a 2.5 V6, which had everything done as well. The matrix had been replaced with a pattern part which looker quite a gash affair. It was missing the insular foams from the ends, this contributed to the loss of heat moving into the heater box because the heat was being lost into the centre console. This item was removed and replaced with a matrix that had been de-scaled. All fitted up and bled through to achieve a top result - heat both sides and in an abundance. So worth trying to remember if it was just a matrix with no foams or not ! No sealing foams - no heat whatever you do............. Hope this helps. JohnH.

16th December 2015, 15:19	#15
roverretro Newbie Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: merseyside Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	go to search type in matrix the look for (air lock ) user name (roverretro) the 75 has a heck of a lot of air traps and the rubbish plastic bleed nut is not gouing to work rover know that just want to charge£££££££ to pressure bleed I converted mine to a tap that bleeds back in res tank hope you get it sorted soon coz its getting might cold cheers chris

16th December 2015, 15:27	#17
roverretro Newbie Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: merseyside Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	search matrix (rover retro) username

16th December 2015, 19:39	#20
willster Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Auto CDT Join Date: May 2009 Location: Rochdale Posts: 319 Thanks: 8 Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts	I would suggest removing your inline stat possibly, I had airlock problems with mine till I did this, my inline stat wasn't opening so no coolant was dribbling out the small pipe in the header tank. I took it out completely and again followed the official bleed procedure and the heaters got nice and hot again, I then re fitted a new inline stat and all is well. My problems were following a coolant change, have you done any jobs on the car recently that may have caused this?