|
||
|
9th July 2011, 10:32 | #1 |
Gets stuck in
EX.2001 Rover 75 Conn SE 2.0, CDT,155 Brake, BRG Join Date: May 2010
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 733
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts
|
Possible Cure for Dodgy Handbrake..
Now hand brake... I had followed the guide for adjustment but still handbrake failed mot but i think i found the reason... please read on...
What a kerfuffle that was, i know it says take seats out to remove centre console but i did it without. However i have had seats out before to replace the seats and console, and its easy. I would if i was you especially to make it easier to get the carpet back to unscrew the lower hand brake securing bolt... So console out and cut along the carpet behind the handbrake to get into the centre cable connector to release the clip and remove the handbrake. Not yet cut in the below picture but cut between the back of the handbrake and the open piece that shows the centre console rear securing bolt holes. Now the handbrake is out i measured the new cable and the old... Old on the left side.. Exactly the same length apart from the base of the shoulder been shorter on the new one but makes no difference as both the thread and overall length the same... so no stretch as others have said.. However the new handbrake came with the securing plate that connects to the rear handbrake cables and my old one looked longer in situ. Now no matter how hard i tried to uncouple the rear cables it was apparent i would need to remove the rear seat the c pillar trims or whatever in order to lift the carpet to get to the bolts that secured the steel plate over the bracket. This is the bracket that the rear of the centre console fastens to. So carpet lifted and plate removed... Now easy to unfasten and remove ready for the new one... This is where it gets interesting... the general consensus is the cables dont stretch, well the connecting plate for the centre cable to rear cables appears too.... The easy route of just winding in the adjuster below the handbrake has lifted the curved metal and so as it lifts the centre cable just gets slacker. Replaced with the new and all re attached... Handbrake centre cable adjusted to 25mm... Now put on 2 clicks and adjusted on the rear wheel adjusters through a wheel bolt hole... After some faffing with how much wind on and grip whether on 1 click or 2 clicks... I wanted to make sure my wheels turned with no drag when handbrake off. So settled on been able to move the drum and disc with firm pressure on 2 clicks. This resulted with a solid brake at 4 clicks. Just adjust to what you feel is good for you. So in conclusion for me when i had the hand brake on 2 clicks and fully tightened up on the drums my car failed the mot. I replaced the whole handbrake unit not knowing if any centre cable stretch etc and the cable was not in stock. However on replacement the cable was fine... but the actual coupling for the centre cable to the rear cables could have been longer of old but to my eyes it has been distorted by over zealous handbrake adjustment resulting in some 15mm extra length over the new replacement. So worth consideration if you are having the handbrake woes even after following the great guide on here. Hope i have helped... Last edited by James_Death; 9th July 2011 at 10:39.. |
9th July 2011, 15:06 | #2 |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,536
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
|
An excellent investigation James. Perhaps you have solved the long standing problems with handbrake adjustment.
Simon.
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
10th July 2011, 10:56 | #3 |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT-T Trophy Blue CDTI Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 883
Thanks: 11
Thanked 25 Times in 18 Posts
|
Yes Well Done James!!
I think we have the answer to the "too long inner cables" issue right here!! I have posted on your other thread about a suggested repair/cure perhaps you or others could let me have your thoughts as I at least will be needing to sort this prior to the next MOT!! Many thanks!! Andy |
10th July 2011, 13:54 | #4 | |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
Location: Leeds
Posts: 17,273
Thanks: 2,160
Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts
|
Quote:
__________________
Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
|
10th July 2011, 16:16 | #5 |
Vis Whiz
Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: LEEDS
Posts: 20,603
Thanks: 2,057
Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts
|
What a stupid set up! does anyone have a part number for the new part?. Would it be possible to bend the top half of the bar down and weld it to the lower part, this would stop it being able to be pulled round.
__________________
Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident |
11th July 2011, 00:00 | #6 |
Gets stuck in
EX.2001 Rover 75 Conn SE 2.0, CDT,155 Brake, BRG Join Date: May 2010
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 733
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts
|
I was looking to replace the centre cable but was out of stock and others say this part is out of stock... however i got the whole handbrake unit so had the lot on...
|
11th July 2011, 14:03 | #7 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 CDTi Conn Tourer & Rover 75 CDT Conn SE Saloon Join Date: May 2010
Location: Queensbury
Posts: 1,368
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Part No off Rimmers would appear to be SNO100011 but out of stock http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001570 item 4 However is in stock here if anyone wants one http://www.southlakesminis.co.uk/ten...1-p-45215.html Find this site very good for parts, prices always seem better than Rimmers and they tend to have items in stock that Rimmers don't. Chris
__________________
Mods so far X-Power Performance Upgrade LED interior lights and sidelights Genuine Rover Xenons - now removed and sold Kenlowe fan Synergy 2 EGR Bypass |
11th July 2011, 14:15 | #8 |
Vis Whiz
Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: LEEDS
Posts: 20,603
Thanks: 2,057
Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts
|
Just ordered, many thanks. £15:86 delivered, ouch, still if it solves the H/B problem a lot of us have
we shall see....
__________________
Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident |
11th July 2011, 15:53 | #9 |
Gets stuck in
EX.2001 Rover 75 Conn SE 2.0, CDT,155 Brake, BRG Join Date: May 2010
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 733
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts
|
Was £10 delivery on the handbrake...and that was at the price it has been for a good while of £25.
Well i said i had adjusted the handbrake at the wheels for some drag at two notches on the handbrake but once the wheels were on it moves more easily. On the way for the test i was on a steep hill and had to pull up the hand brake more... went in and luckily the MOT bloke is a fellow biker and good bloke told me hand brake was up from the previouse 9% to 50% but not good enough but told me to go back and adjust them, this time i did them tighter at the two clicks on the handbrake and when handbrake off they spun freely still. Went back and was fine i didnt do the 3 clicks i simply yanked it on and some testers test themselves and some let you apply it, i think i was at 4 clicks 5 max i know they were solid by hand on 3 clicks with the wheels off. 4 clicks solid by hand with the wheels on. So dont know if there are still some issues this time it has to be the rear cables if anything. Talking to the mechanic he says all cables eventually stretch he still even gets them coming in with knots tied in them. But mine is working fine now... |
11th July 2011, 18:27 | #10 |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
Location: Leeds
Posts: 17,273
Thanks: 2,160
Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts
|
I think you are falling into the trap of still leaving too much play. All you need is the shoes barely clearing the drum, or just barely touching, so it is already being applied at the first click. Two should hold it on most slopes and at three the tyres will leave rubber on the road if you tried to drag it.
The higher the point at which the handbraks starts to work, the less effective it is simply because the amount of leverage your arm can produce falls dramatically as the angle worsens. If you can easily push the car on a smooth flat surface with the handbrake in the off position, it is not dragging. I'll bet you can still push yours at two clicks? Get it set so it is fully applied at three clicks and the handbrake is brilliant, as good as they get.
__________________
Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
|
|