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1st July 2019, 07:13 | #1 |
Posted a thing or two
MG ZT-T+ 135 CDTi Join Date: Oct 2012
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Solid metallic rattling when hitting a pothole/speed bumps
Hi All,
Need some advice here. For the most part, she's driving very nicely, 99.9% of the time you wouldn't know there was a problem. However whenever my nearside front wheel hits a pothole, speed bump or just poorly maintained section of road (and I'm in Sussex, so there's no shortage of those) there's a solid metallic rattling noise coming from that wheel. It's not a tinny noise, much more substantial sounding than that... imagine the sort of noise you get if you drive over a loose iron drain cover or drain and that's close to the noise you hear. It's only nearside front affected - the other wheels don't do it. Anyone heard this sort of thing/any ideas on what could be at fault? Thanks. |
1st July 2019, 07:34 | #2 |
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First port of call is always the drop link
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1st July 2019, 07:41 | #3 |
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This sort of noise is also typically related to wear of the lower suspension arm ('wishbone') components. Perhaps the most common is the collapse of the rear bush. Another common wear point is the ball joint attached to the swivel hub. See Items 3 and 1 respectively here: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001541
These are primary candidates. but with a dozen joints on the front suspension, there are plenty of other ossibilities. As a test, safely jack up the noisey corner and see if you can rock the wheel forwards and backwards by pushing the tyre. Any movement there indicates the rear bush has failed. Any ball joint wear on the wishbone means a complete replacement. You can get everything needed from DMGRS here on the forum. Rear Bushes: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...1760-rbx101770 Suspension arm with bush: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...2500-rbj000371 TC |
1st July 2019, 07:53 | #4 |
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The sound description is very much as mine sound when worn. They are an easy thing to replace and there is an excellent how to on here.
I have found the recommendation to remove about 6mm from the top thread before fitting makes fitting and removing so much easier. Certainly DMGS (Matt) is the place to go for replacements. It takes me about 30 min a side - and if you can pack a bit more grease into the joints that will help as well. |
1st July 2019, 08:00 | #5 |
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Thanks all! Must admit that was what I suspected. Will jack her up tonight and take a look and see if I can work out what's broken. I'm not a great DIYer and other than a set of spanners, don't have much in the way of special tools, so I'm not hugely confident in trying to fix it myself.
Anyway, first things first... I need to know which part to order. |
1st July 2019, 08:59 | #6 |
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If it is the drop-links (and from what I'm reading, that sounds likely), is it easy to spot if the old ones are worn? Any tests I should be doing once I have the wheel off?
Also, is it best to change both sides at the same time? |
1st July 2019, 09:06 | #7 |
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When youhave the wheel off, undo the bottom connection of the droplinks, and take bolt out(disconnects the roll bar). You can then feel the wear better. Mine was shot on the top joint.
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1st July 2019, 09:11 | #8 |
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Great, thanks!
This car is still my daily driver and I completely depend on her getting me to work and back reliably... and I must admit every time I think this car has reached the end of its life and that I start to think that the time has come when I need to buy something newer, someone on here comes up with the answer. This is a fantastic site and is certainly the only reason my car is still on the road. |
1st July 2019, 12:07 | #9 |
same car since 2005
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I have also found that without jacking up the car , just try gripping the tyre and rolling the wheel back and forwards on the ground . Any movement of the wheel without the car moving means the bush is poorly
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4th July 2019, 14:30 | #10 |
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Mine's been knocking for ages, couldn't find the probleme, does it over speed bumps too, turns out it's the inner tie rods that have play in them. With the car jacked up there was no play, I was told because the balljoints are in a different unworn position.
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