ZT190 2.5V6 Flashing lights!!!!!

[Chilljohn]

yup doesnt involve the trip computer at all and in a sense it gives you one lol

[loupus666]

Originally Posted by Chilljohn

the zt/75 are very very funny about thre batts the slighest defect in them and the car plays silly buggers the 1st thing id try is a new batt or if your your usufll with your dash you can see if your alt is kicking out the right voltage by follow ing this

you want option 9

if you get it showing somehtin at 2ng ig no engine thats the batts voltage it will change as you turn lights etc on , then start the car and try it and let us know the reading , it might help
any thing high 10s or below i beleive will cause the car to get a bit grumpy


To enable the OBC diagnostics:

a) Press and hold the trip reset button.
b) Put key into ignition switch and turn to KLR (Ignition switch
position #1)
c) Your LCD display will show something like this "test 1.-"
d) Press the reset button till you get to "test 19.-". (19.0 unlocks all
the features)
e) Wait for display to show "Log I -off" and press the reset button
f) With no delay press Trip Reset several times to select one of the
following functions:

1 Car, Engine and cluster data

1.0 VIN serial number
1.1 K-number
1.2 Cluster Part #
1.3 Coding (04)/diagnosis (52)/bus index (10)
1.4 1200 Week (12)/year of manufacture (2000)
1.5 09_160 Hardware (09) and software # (16.0) of cluster
1.6 Injection Status-number of cylinders-motor number

2.0 2 Cluster System Test - Activates the gauge drivers, indicators and
LEDs to confirm function

3 Service Inspection (SI) Data
3.0 Used fuel in liters since last SI
3.1 Periodic inspection days; elapsed days (since last SI)

4 Momentary Consumption
4.0 Instant fuel consumption - 0145=14.5 liters/100km
4.1 Instant fuel consumption - 0018=1.8 l/Hour

5 Distance Gone Consumption
5.0 Average mileage; 082=8.2 liters/100km
5.1 Calc. km to refuel (momentary distance to go)

6 Fuel Level sensor inputs in liters
6.0 Fuel level averaged; 109330 - Left half sensor input=10.9 liters;
Right sensor input=33.0 liters
6.1 Total tank level averaged; 0439 - vlgs 6.0: 10.9+33.0=43.9 liters
6.2 Indicated value and diagnostics:
last digit: 1 - both sensors ok; 2 - sensor error; 3 - signal error
- no display

7 Temperature and Speed
7.0 021+ Coolant/Engine temperature (2.1C)
7.1 130 Ambient/Outside temperature - chg met 5 pts. 125/130/135
7.2 Engine speed / Current RPMs 1/min
7.3 Vehicle speed / Current Speed in km/hour

8 Values of 7.0 bis 7.3 in HEX form

9 Battery
9.0 140 Battery Voltage - 140 = UB 14.0v

10.0 Country code

11.0 Unit code

12.0 Not used

13.0 Gong test

14.0-14.4 Error memory: if 000000 no error in memory

15.0 - 18.0 not used

19 Lock Status; unlocks functions in range 3-18
19.0 L-On/L-Off Unlock: press button when "L-Off"

20.0 Correction Factor for OBC Fuel Consumption
Formula for the Correction Factor:
Indicated Consumption X 1000 / Measured Consumption = Factor (4321)
Press Reset button to begin setting the of the first (1) digit - press
reset when the right digit appears
20.1 Setting of the second (2) digit
20.2 Setting of the hundred (3) and thousand (4) digit
20.3 Store and Display the Correction Factor

[b]21.0 Software Reset; reset OBC settings

Don`t know if I`m reading it right but on option 9 of OBD, I have (119 engine not running)
& (142 engine running) how does that sound?

[Chilljohn]

that 11.9v and 14.2 id still be tempted to try a new batt

[loupus666]

Heres the update.....batt indicator green when tapped! the clicking I heard before is the fan motor on the higher speed!

[loupus666]

Hello......don`t know if anyones still following this but heres another update,
I`ve just fitted a brand new battery from my local x-part dealer....£58....not bad I thought!!!!!!!!!! all the lights are still pulsating....any more ideas?

[Chilljohn]

id get the alternator tested next see if it is putting out a steady voltage !

[Keith]

I think you have a duff rad fan motor and it is only kicking in at the high speed these draw a lot of current and will cause the effect you are describing if constantly being turned on and off based on cooling demand

You have not included the engine type in you thread title like what I expect everyone to do here when asking for help

[loupus666]

Originally Posted by Keith

I think you have a duff rad fan motor and it is only kicking in at the high speed these draw a lot of current and will cause the effect you are describing if constantly being turned on and off based on cooling demand

You have not included the engine type in you thread title like what I expect everyone to do here when asking for help

Sorry I didn`t quote the engine type in the thread !!!!! but will do next time
Thanks....it`s a zt190 2.5 kv6

[Keith]

Ah in that case have you checked you fan works?
For the V6 engine you need engine running and AC on Auto, or in this cold weather on Lo fan should be going constantly with one proviso read the last two paragraph here as the temp differential seems to increase as it gets colder outside hence why you may need to put yours on Lo

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...70&postcount=3