A few codes on fresh start-up

Salad-Dodger · 8th July 2015, 20:40

Well I've started it up and all has been fine for a couple of days and it sounds quite good. Then the engine light came on as they do.
The codes are 137 low volts bank1, sens2. 300 random misfire and 330 knock sensor circuit malfunction bank2.
The temperature climbs to 100 deg and the fan comes on. It then cools to 94 deg and the fan goes off. I fitted a new resistor while it was all apart.
The first code is a lambda fault that I can cope with but the misfire (multiple cylinders) I have never seen. Also, the last one is a new one for me. May try another sensor and see what happens.

Putting a bit of logic on this, if the knock sensor is not working and the ecu doesn't get the correct information, that could maybe cause the multi misfire which would trigger a code on one of the lambdas?
Any input very welcome! Steve

Salad-Dodger · 9th July 2015, 18:54

Changed the knock sensors today. Deleted all the codes mentioned before and all running fine except I think the idle is a little low at 500rpm hot.
May need to re-set the TB to raise it a bit.
Its just possible to change the sensors without removing the manifolds even though I have large hands!
The problem with the previous unit was a lack of oil pressure producing a noisy top-end in the early stages, progressing to a definite bottom end knock. Will take it apart soon and have a look. Steve

Anon3 · 9th July 2015, 23:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Salad-Dodger

Changed the knock sensors today. Deleted all the codes mentioned before and all running fine except I think the idle is a little low at 500rpm hot.
May need to re-set the TB to raise it a bit.
Its just possible to change the sensors without removing the manifolds even though I have large hands!
The problem with the previous unit was a lack of oil pressure producing a noisy top-end in the early stages, progressing to a definite bottom end knock. Will take it apart soon and have a look. Steve

This is only set-able via a T4, I believe.

Maybe you know more than me in this area (easily possible and perhaps you can enlighten me about re-setting the TB?) but I'd guess there's still something wrong.

Salad-Dodger · 10th July 2015, 12:44

Hi Anon3.
Got to say, you may be correct on the T4 subject and I may be jumping the gun on it being relative to the TB anyway.
I removed everything that was on my engine and put it onto this one. The idle on my old unit was about 750 and that was as near correct I think, but this one is only 500 and I don't like it!
I will do a bit of research to find out exactly what would control the idle. If its the ECU then a T4 session will be the order I think.
I used the car for work today and it behaved itself in every respect except the clutch pedal is a bit soggy. Probably could do with some more bleeding.
The slave is a very recent one and I was surprised on how much black clutch dust there was coming out on the first bleed. The dust obviously gets behind the seal quite easily from the outset which must shorten its life quite a bit.

I'm hoping someone else may come on for the idle issue to start me off before I get looking for answers on the web! I spend a lot of time on research as I restore and service classic cars as a heavy hobby.
Cam timing is spot-on (190) Idle is constant and no exhaust leaks.
Steve

8th July 2015, 20:40	#1
Salad-Dodger Gets stuck in MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Chatham Posts: 592 Thanks: 34 Thanked 66 Times in 62 Posts	A few codes on fresh start-up Well I've started it up and all has been fine for a couple of days and it sounds quite good. Then the engine light came on as they do. The codes are 137 low volts bank1, sens2. 300 random misfire and 330 knock sensor circuit malfunction bank2. The temperature climbs to 100 deg and the fan comes on. It then cools to 94 deg and the fan goes off. I fitted a new resistor while it was all apart. The first code is a lambda fault that I can cope with but the misfire (multiple cylinders) I have never seen. Also, the last one is a new one for me. May try another sensor and see what happens. Putting a bit of logic on this, if the knock sensor is not working and the ecu doesn't get the correct information, that could maybe cause the multi misfire which would trigger a code on one of the lambdas? Any input very welcome! Steve

9th July 2015, 18:54	#2
Salad-Dodger Gets stuck in MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Chatham Posts: 592 Thanks: 34 Thanked 66 Times in 62 Posts	Changed the knock sensors today. Deleted all the codes mentioned before and all running fine except I think the idle is a little low at 500rpm hot. May need to re-set the TB to raise it a bit. Its just possible to change the sensors without removing the manifolds even though I have large hands! The problem with the previous unit was a lack of oil pressure producing a noisy top-end in the early stages, progressing to a definite bottom end knock. Will take it apart soon and have a look. Steve

10th July 2015, 12:44	#4
Salad-Dodger Gets stuck in MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Chatham Posts: 592 Thanks: 34 Thanked 66 Times in 62 Posts	Hi Anon3. Got to say, you may be correct on the T4 subject and I may be jumping the gun on it being relative to the TB anyway. I removed everything that was on my engine and put it onto this one. The idle on my old unit was about 750 and that was as near correct I think, but this one is only 500 and I don't like it! I will do a bit of research to find out exactly what would control the idle. If its the ECU then a T4 session will be the order I think. I used the car for work today and it behaved itself in every respect except the clutch pedal is a bit soggy. Probably could do with some more bleeding. The slave is a very recent one and I was surprised on how much black clutch dust there was coming out on the first bleed. The dust obviously gets behind the seal quite easily from the outset which must shorten its life quite a bit. I'm hoping someone else may come on for the idle issue to start me off before I get looking for answers on the web! I spend a lot of time on research as I restore and service classic cars as a heavy hobby. Cam timing is spot-on (190) Idle is constant and no exhaust leaks. Steve