Lower Engine Mount Need Changing?

Rick-sta · 8th July 2015, 16:27

Over the last couple of weeks, when I switch the engine off the engine seems to jolt forwards and back a couple of times (quickly) which causes my whole exhaust system to knock. I take it as this would be caused by the lower engine mount?

Cheers,
Rick

David Lawrence · 8th July 2015, 17:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick-sta

Over the last couple of weeks, when I switch the engine off the engine seems to jolt forwards and back a couple of times (quickly) which causes my whole exhaust system to knock. I take it as this would be caused by the lower engine mount?

Cheers,
Rick

It is highly likely yes. Undertray off, slide under and take a look, if it is as bad as you describe should be easy to see the damage.

Dmgrs sells well priced new oem ones, and its only 2 x 15mm bolts to change it. 10 minute job.

jonathan63 · 8th July 2015, 18:14

If it has just started doing this I'm with David on this one....but, in my opinion, you will have to take the lower mount off to test it properly. David is right that if it is completely shagged you it will be obvious eevn when it is still on the car but if it is just split it will look fine until you get a pry bar in the end of the large bush.

It is only a 5 minute job to remove. 2 x 14mm bolts. No nuts to worry about. Slid it out, put a pry bar or large screw driver through the big bush end and lever it sideways. It will probably reveal a split through the rubber.

ProfDave · 8th July 2015, 20:18

I have not had a SH 75/ZT on which this has not been required so I would say if you have not done it yes; easy to check on the CDTi; whip it off and look for any cracks. DMGRS has good ones..

daznkel · 8th July 2015, 22:22

Mine had a split in it when I replaced the clutch and slave some time ago and I ignored it! Now gone completely I think. As you say it jolts on switching the engine off, as well as a clunk sometimes on clutch take up, when going from 1st to reverse and vice versa. Also the rattling/vibration from the centre console.

Having done a bit of searching, there is only a few quid difference between Mat's price for a new one and poly bushing the existing one.

Jakg · 8th July 2015, 23:12

That sounds like the lower engine mount - I would recommend a powerflex replacement, though.

If yours has a high mileage it's worth checking the hydramount also - they suffer as well.

mcd840 · 8th July 2015, 23:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick-sta

Over the last couple of weeks, when I switch the engine off the engine seems to jolt forwards and back a couple of times (quickly) which causes my whole exhaust system to knock. I take it as this would be caused by the lower engine mount?

Cheers,
Rick

Hi there. I ordered a lower rear mount today for my 75 diesel for the exact reason you describe along with a few small others. Got it from Dmgrs

Dragrad · 8th July 2015, 23:34

Thread moved to appropriate forum. Re-direct left in old

Kennyeth · 9th July 2015, 06:23

It will feel like a new car when you have done it, mine was so bad that it snapped the rear exhaust box fastening strap.
Ken.

Rick-sta · 9th July 2015, 08:33

Nice one thanks all

Will take a look into it

8th July 2015, 16:27	#1
Rick-sta This is my second home MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Norfolk Posts: 7,534 Thanks: 2,718 Thanked 2,827 Times in 1,462 Posts	Lower Engine Mount Need Changing? Over the last couple of weeks, when I switch the engine off the engine seems to jolt forwards and back a couple of times (quickly) which causes my whole exhaust system to knock. I take it as this would be caused by the lower engine mount? Cheers, Rick __________________ How to retrofit Cruise Control on a diesel with no OEM wiring in place: Link How to retrofit heated electric memory seats with no OEM wiring in place: Link How to operate FBH and ATC via text Link How to restore cloudy projector headlights Link

8th July 2015, 22:22	#5
daznkel Posted a thing or two 04 MG ZT+ 190 XPG & 99 (T) Dealer Launch 75 V6 Connie Auto Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Plymouth Posts: 1,080 Thanks: 615 Thanked 456 Times in 309 Posts	Mine had a split in it when I replaced the clutch and slave some time ago and I ignored it! Now gone completely I think. As you say it jolts on switching the engine off, as well as a clunk sometimes on clutch take up, when going from 1st to reverse and vice versa. Also the rattling/vibration from the centre console. Having done a bit of searching, there is only a few quid difference between Mat's price for a new one and poly bushing the existing one. __________________ Click HERE To Be Added To The South West Members Location Map Upgrades/Mods so far: Custom Angel Eye DRL's, MG7 Rear lights, Custom Door Cards, MGR Plates, Red Alcantara Seats, Black Oak Dash, Powerflex bushes, Plenum Spy Mod, Rear Light Seals, 5000K HID Kit, Navall 3 DD, Blue LED Conversion, Custom badges, Union badges, Flip key. Working on more! [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

8th July 2015, 23:34	#8
Dragrad This is my second home *None DROWNED** Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Cardigan Posts: 33,339 Thanks: 1,257 Thanked 1,664 Times in 1,081 Posts	Thread moved to appropriate forum. Re-direct left in old __________________ Andrew Ich Dien Problem solving is... lateral thinking SEARCH FIRST ...ASK LATER...

9th July 2015, 08:33	#10
Rick-sta This is my second home MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Norfolk Posts: 7,534 Thanks: 2,718 Thanked 2,827 Times in 1,462 Posts	Nice one thanks all Will take a look into it __________________ How to retrofit Cruise Control on a diesel with no OEM wiring in place: Link How to retrofit heated electric memory seats with no OEM wiring in place: Link How to operate FBH and ATC via text Link How to restore cloudy projector headlights Link

8th July 2015, 18:14	#3
jonathan63 This is my second home CDTi Conniosseur SE HLNav Tourer and a Personal Line CDT Conniosseur SE Tourer..for the time being. Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cumbria Posts: 3,639 Thanks: 340 Thanked 423 Times in 294 Posts	If it has just started doing this I'm with David on this one....but, in my opinion, you will have to take the lower mount off to test it properly. David is right that if it is completely shagged you it will be obvious eevn when it is still on the car but if it is just split it will look fine until you get a pry bar in the end of the large bush. It is only a 5 minute job to remove. 2 x 14mm bolts. No nuts to worry about. Slid it out, put a pry bar or large screw driver through the big bush end and lever it sideways. It will probably reveal a split through the rubber.

8th July 2015, 20:18	#4
ProfDave This is my second home ZTT, Contemp Saloon, Duotone Tourer Join Date: May 2012 Location: Llandeilo Posts: 4,192 Thanks: 290 Thanked 387 Times in 333 Posts	I have not had a SH 75/ZT on which this has not been required so I would say if you have not done it yes; easy to check on the CDTi; whip it off and look for any cracks. DMGRS has good ones..

8th July 2015, 23:12	#6
Jakg This is my second home N/A Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 6,867 Thanks: 0 Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts	That sounds like the lower engine mount - I would recommend a powerflex replacement, though. If yours has a high mileage it's worth checking the hydramount also - they suffer as well.

9th July 2015, 06:23	#9
Kennyeth This is my second home No more Rover Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Barnsley, South Yorkshire. Posts: 5,881 Thanks: 1,625 Thanked 1,308 Times in 998 Posts	It will feel like a new car when you have done it, mine was so bad that it snapped the rear exhaust box fastening strap. Ken.