Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club General Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar
Notices

 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
Old 4th April 2020, 21:44   #1
grout20
Gets stuck in
 
grout20's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Connie SE 2.5 V6 Auto

Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Stevenage
Posts: 619
Thanks: 619
Thanked 253 Times in 182 Posts
Default Brake Fluid change, without T4, using the "gravity" method

Hi all

There's been a couple of threads recently re brake fluid bleeding/changing.

On MikeTrident's informative "Brake Fluid" thread, Marinabrian posted about a "gravity" bleed method he uses which I'd never come across before.

I'd always used the " rubber tube with a split in it, and pump the brake pedal" method on my previous classic cars - no ABS, dual circuit, T4-option modern stuff on any of them!

Today provided the opportunity for another "satisfying job whilst on lockdown" and I had a go at the full fluid change using Brian's gravity method.

It worked perfectly, so I thought I'd post up a separate thread for anybody who might be interested but perhaps is also unaware of this method, or following the other threads.

What I did, and some comments.....

Background

I've had my current V6 for two years now. I'm not sure of all it's previous service history but I know prior to me, it had sat in a garage back yard for 5 years and not moved.
The calipers had been painted red at some time and paint was covering the bleed nipple/caliper joints too, so probably the fluid was much older than 5 years.

Here we go

1 . About a week a go I started wirebrushing and PlusGassing all the bleed nipples.

2 . First of all I used a large syringe to take out fluid from the Master Cylinder, down to the bottom of the "neck" of the cylinder, and put fresh in .. just to start the supply of new fluid from the start.

3 . I started with the nearside rear wheel. Jacked up, axle stand in place, more PlusGas/ wirebrushing and, picking up on another tip from a thread, I heated up the caliper for 5 seconds with a small gas blowtorch and squirted the nipple again with PlusGas to cool it down.

4 . Using a snug fitting, hexagonal 9mm socket and a T bar so as to apply even pressure (another thread warned about using an open or ring spanner as the twisting is harder to keep "central"), holding my breath and fretting for a couple of seconds as my twisting effort increased, the nipple came undone rather than snapping off or rounding off. Result!

5 . The same procedure worked for the other three nipples too. I was SO chuffed about this bit. So I highly recommend the PlusGas / wirebrush and gentle heat steps if (like me) you are concerned about the nipples snapping off.

6 . A clear length of tubing was pushed onto the nipple and into a clear container, and loosening the nipple half a turn saw old fluid rising up in the tube and then over the top of the loop. See picture.

7 . The next stage took AGES.... I wasn't expecting fast flowing fluid but it was SOOOOO slow! It probably took an hour and a half for the first half a litre of fluid to end up in the container. Perhaps that's indicative of the age/ thickness / viscosity, I don't know. It did get a tiny bit quicker as (I guess) the new fluid displaced the old but God it was slowww. I can understand why some folk on here use a pressure system to "push" the fluid through....

8 . As most people will know, the next caliper was offside rear, then nearside front and finally offside front.

9 . Because of the slow draining process you get the chance to do other little jobs. Just had to check the Master Cylinder every 5 minutes and keep it topped up with fresh fluid.

10. The front calipers drained down faster than the rear, so do remember to keep an eye on the Master Cylinder. I didn't let the new fluid level drop anywhere near the "neck" of the cylinder.

11. I can understand that T4 might be needed to get the last 40ml or so out of the ABS bit, but the brake pedal is rock hard so I'm happy (actually, it was good before the change but at least I know the fluid is fresh and I didn't seem to c0ck up anything else!)

I've attached a picture of some of the old fluid (plastic container) and new fluid (see the jar next to it) so there's a definite difference in colour. Was the old fluid REALLY bad? ... had it been changed before? What do you think?

In summary although very slow, this method is definitely a useful one. But of course if any of the nipples had snapped off I would not feel as smug as I do this evening!

Sorry for the long thread ... hope it's useful at some time for someone else.

Stay safe folks

John
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Brakefluidchange1_rearNS.jpg (130.7 KB, 120 views)
File Type: jpg Brakefluidchange3_MasterCyl.jpg (132.1 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg Brakefluidchange2_oldNnew.jpg (143.1 KB, 118 views)
__________________
.

My 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto 75 is the
• 20,516th 75 to be made out of 112,381
• 787th 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,671
• 1,248th Wedgwood Blue Metallic (code: JBH) to be made out of 7,515 code JBH 75's
grout20 is offline   Reply With Quote
 


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 11:01.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd