75 Saloon Parcel Shelf Removal (with rear blind)

[Matt_75]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Yes, an excellent account with clear photographs, thank you Matt. I hope that the moderators will preserve this in the "How to" section so that it's available for easy reference.

Simon

Thank you. I'll do a proper write up once I've figured out the spring tension thing mentioned above.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Matt_75

I decided to do a dry reassembly run before greasing it all up. Here is how I put it back together.

1. Attach the spring to the large diameter wheel, ensuring the outer tang locates properly in the groove as shown at the top of this photo.



2. The inner tang now needs to locate in this slot near the brass bushing in the main body. This is a bit fiddly and I used a pick tool to help locate it.





3. Insert the torx screw that acts as a stop for the mechanism to prevent over-rotation. In hindsight, this could be done first.



4. Locate the shaft of the smaller diameter wheel in the corresponding blind hole.



5. Put the brown coloured smaller diameter wheel onto the shaft ensuring it meshes with the large diameter wheel properly.



6. Now it's time to tension the spring, which is a bit tricky. Rotate the brown wheel anti-clockwise, which in turn will rotate the large wheel clockwise, until it hits the stop screw. Holding it in place, insert the motor and mesh the worm gear to keep everything still. Make sure the worm gear stays meshed as the brown wheel has a tendency to want to lean away from it which could cause it to disengage and unwind the spring.



7. Insert the screws into the motor ensuring the spring/gear assembly doesn't move.



8. Put the top plate on. I used a thin trim tool to push the shaft of the brown wheel to get it to locate properly in the brass bushing of the top plate. Insert the top plate screws.



That's it. I did a quick bench test with a 12v battery and it seemed to work properly. I've now disassembled it ready for final assembly with grease.

That is brilliant, thank you very much for writing that up and adding pictures.


macafee2

[Matt_75]

Originally Posted by macafee2

That is brilliant, thank you very much for writing that up and adding pictures.


macafee2

No problem. I'll update once I've looked into the spring tensioning.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Matt_75

No problem . Thinking about the assembly procedure, it might be possible to put it together without doing the fiddly spring tensioning bit, provided the first thing you do after it's built is run the motor in reverse (lower the blind). I would want to test that theory before committing to it though.

I'd appreciate a bit of advice on the grease actually. I don't know what the original yellow coloured grease was. Does anyone on here know?

Hi Matt.
I use these quite a lot for inside locks and such with cogs etc.
1

[Matt_75]

This is how I reassembled the rear blind gear mechanism. Several of these photos were taken when I did a "dry run" without grease, but on final assembly a lithium based multipurpose grease was used. Be careful not to use too much grease as this can cause excessive drag and slow the mechanism down.

1. Attach the spring to the large diameter wheel, ensuring the outer tang locates properly in the groove as shown at the top of this photo.



2. The inner tang now needs to locate in this slot near the brass bushing in the main body. This is a bit fiddly and I used a pick tool to help locate it.





3. Locate the shaft of the smaller diameter wheel in the corresponding blind hole.



4. Put the brown coloured smaller diameter wheel onto the shaft ensuring it meshes with the large diameter wheel properly.



5. Insert the motor into the housing, ensuring the worm gear meshes with the brown wheel correctly. Attach the motor to the housing with the three T10 Torx screws. One of the screws is a bit difficult to access, I found that a screwdriver couldn't get a good hold on it but a thinner t-handled tool could. Don't worry about tensioning the spring at this stage.





6. Put the top plate on. I used a thin trim tool to push the shaft of the brown wheel to get it to locate properly in the brass bushing of the top plate. Insert the three T10 Torx top plate screws.



7. Now it's time to tension the spring. Notice that the flat on the interface with the blind mechanism is at the 6 o'clock position on the photo above. Ensure that the T20 Torx stop screw is not inserted.



8. Using a 12V battery and some wire, run the motor in the clockwise direction to tension the spring. This is done by connecting pin 1 to positive and pin 3 to negative. Run the motor till the large gear completes a 360 degree rotation i.e. the flat mentioned previously ends up back at the 6 o'clock position.





9. Insert the stop screw.



10. Use the battery and wire again to continue to run the motor in the same direction. It'll rotate clockwise through about 80 degrees before hitting the stop screw. Note the flat is now at the 8-9 o'clock position.



11. The motor can now be reattached to the blind. If the blind is still attached to the parcel shelf, there is one T20 screw that is difficult to access. I found a T20 bit and 1/4" spanner to be the easiest way.



I have tested the blind after completing reassembly with fresh grease and the blind raises in about 4-5 seconds.