FBH The end of the SAGA ?

[FrenchMike]

To test the external components ,You have all the infos on my schematic

And Forget the color of the resistors .the ohmmeter is the only way.


Mike

[wolfdoguk]

Thank you once again Mike! I'll do the tests at the weekend or before if I get chance.

Paul

[decebalus]

Hello comunity, big thanks to French Mike and the passion he shows for these cars and to everyone that contributes to this forum, it's my second week here and i already found cheap solution to 2 of my problems, (how to get a cheap MAF sensor thanks to HarryM1BYT , and this one with the damaged pcb which eventually i will get it done)

I have the old version of the Webasto on my car which is 66232C, i tested with +12V to pin 1 and the machine starts for 2 minutes and then gone. I haven't tested the external components but i heard the air fan running for the 2 minutes it did and i check the hose that goes in the engine while working and there was some action going on, nothing to say about the fuel pump...btw does the schematic you Mike drawn for testing external components is valid for the old Webasto also? And one more the order to remove the 2 wires connected to Webasto is 1st 6-pin plug and then 2-pin plug, and to reconnect you need first to connect the 2-pin wires and after the 6 plug am i right?

One thing i haven't done is to remove the pcb (i don't remember where the instructions threat is) , i did some pictures to it as it is and eventually i'll remove it and find someone capable of doing the job around here as i'm from Bucharest(Romania)


I need to find a way to test the plug and the fuel pump beside getting done the pcb and also please teach me to say thanks to users

All the best
Alex

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[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by decebalus

Hello comunity, big thanks to French Mike and the passion he shows for these cars and to everyone that contributes to this forum, it's my second week here and i already found cheap solution to 2 of my problems, (how to get a cheap MAF sensor thanks to HarryM1BYT , and this one with the damaged pcb which eventually i will get it done)

I have the old version of the Webasto on my car which is 66232C, i tested with +12V to pin 1 and the machine starts for 2 minutes and then gone. I haven't tested the external components but i heard the air fan running for the 2 minutes it did and i check the hose that goes in the engine while working and there was some action going on, nothing to say about the fuel pump...btw does the schematic you Mike drawn for testing external components is valid for the old Webasto also? And one more the order to remove the 2 wires connected to Webasto is 1st 6-pin plug and then 2-pin plug, and to reconnect you need first to connect the 2-pin wires and after the 6 plug am i right?

One thing i haven't done is to remove the pcb (i don't remember where the instructions threat is) , i did some pictures to it as it is and eventually i'll remove it and find someone capable of doing the job around here as i'm from Bucharest(Romania)


I need to find a way to test the plug and the fuel pump beside getting done the pcb and also please teach me to say thanks to users

All the best
Alex

Hi Alex,

On your type (first one) no kbus is fitted ,so no worry about the disconnecting
plug order ..
The schematic is the same except the auxiliary command.
(you have to connect pin3 to +12v )

This model is more robust than the other ,then faults vicious to find out .

Is the 5 volt generated ?

Mike

[decebalus]

Originally Posted by FrenchMike

Hi Alex,

On your type (first one) no kbus is fitted ,so no worry about the disconnecting
plug order ..
The schematic is the same except the auxiliary command.
(you have to connect pin3 to +12v )

This model is more robust than the other ,then faults vicious to find out .

Is the 5 volt generated ?

Mike

Hello Mike,

So the scheme from post 121 you drawn remains the same except connecting +12v to pin3, not ground to pin3 as for the newer model, correct?

(sorry my knowledge of the machine is a bit poor) how can i measure if the 5v is on? (i have a metter for that)

Can it be possible to fix it or it's a waste of time?
My car is going to 9 o'clock temp indicator in about 20 minutes more or less depending on the driving style, do you think the thermostat has something to do with that?

Kindly thanks for getting envolved

Alex

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by decebalus

Hello Mike,

So the scheme from post 121 you drawn remains the same except connecting +12v to pin3, not ground to pin3 as for the newer model, correct?

(sorry my knowledge of the machine is a bit poor) how can i measure if the 5v is on? (i have a metter for that)

Can it be possible to fix it or it's a waste of time?
My car is going to 9 o'clock temp indicator in about 20 minutes more or less depending on the driving style, do you think the thermostat has something to do with that?

Kindly thanks for getting envolved

Alex

Hi Alex,

To read more accurately your engine temp,use the OBD in 7.0

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...rd+diagnostics

You have a PM

Mike

[wolfdoguk]

Originally Posted by FrenchMike

To test the external components ,You have all the infos on my schematic

And Forget the color of the resistors .the ohmmeter is the only way.


Mike

Ok, I've been quite ill, so I only just got chance to do your tests Mike.
I took the worst pcb, the one that looked like the elmos was burned and experimented with it, it started giving me readings from all the resistors, so i re-soldered them, put it back in the car and it works again!
Now, while I was at it, I did your tests as per your schematic. On the water pump, the bulb lit, but not as bright as if going direct to the battery, and the pump made a noise, moving on, the combustion fan ran while the bulb was lit "half brightness" and the fuel pump lit up too, also not as bright. Does this sound ok?
The other boards have dead resistors on them, so I will change them and see what happens with them, although I'm not sure about the physical size of the smd resistors, I got 4k7 and 47k, the body size is 1206, but seems a little too big, would 0805 be better? and what wattage should they be, 0.25w or 0.1w?
Thank you!

Paul

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by wolfdoguk

Ok, I've been quite ill, so I only just got chance to do your tests Mike.
I took the worst pcb, the one that looked like the elmos was burned and experimented with it, it started giving me readings from all the resistors, so i re-soldered them, put it back in the car and it works again!
Now, while I was at it, I did your tests as per your schematic. On the water pump, the bulb lit, but not as bright as if going direct to the battery, and the pump made a noise, moving on, the combustion fan ran while the bulb was lit "half brightness" and the fuel pump lit up too, also not as bright. Does this sound ok?
The other boards have dead resistors on them, so I will change them and see what happens with them, although I'm not sure about the physical size of the smd resistors, I got 4k7 and 47k, the body size is 1206, but seems a little too big, would 0805 be better? and what wattage should they be, 0.25w or 0.1w?
Thank you!

Paul

Yes Paul,everything is normal unless it will stop






And most of the resistors are 0805 /0.25 w

Mike

[sln8458]

Originally Posted by wolfdoguk

Ok, I've been quite ill, so I only just got chance to do your tests Mike.
... On the water pump, the bulb lit, but not as bright as if going direct to the battery, and the pump made a noise, moving on, the combustion fan ran while the bulb was lit "half brightness" and the fuel pump lit up too, also not as bright. Does this sound ok?

Paul

Paul
Just a thought, the fuel pump is solenoid driven (it has a pulse signal) so the light should 'flash' in sync with the pump.
As mentioned in Mikes post #121
I think you could have a fuel pump issue, hence why both FBH's have issues when fitted to the car.

SteveN

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by sln8458

Paul
Just a thought, the fuel pump is solenoid driven (it has a pulse signal) so the light should 'flash' in sync with the pump.
As mentioned in Mikes post #121
I think you could have a fuel pump issue, hence why both FBH's have issues when fitted to the car.

SteveN

The easy way to know whether the pump is working, is to listen to it for clicks. The speed of the clicks vary, depending on the combustion state of the FBH, but they are easily heard. If its clicking you can be 99% sure it is pumping, but that doesn't guarantee fuel is coming out.