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26th November 2019, 08:18 | #61 | ||
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Are the Champion plugs you've bought listed by the manufacturer for use with the KV6? Are they the triple electrode design? If the answer to either of these questions is no, I would take the necessary action. Simon
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26th November 2019, 11:44 | #62 |
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Yes, the plugs I bought were listed as compatible for use with the R75 2.0 V6, and they looked exactly like my original ones, I don't know what you mean with the triple electrode but anyways here are the ones I bought: Spark plugs
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26th November 2019, 13:50 | #63 |
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Just Google "NGK triple electrode sparking plugs" and you'll see.
The plugs you have bought are the conventional single electrode type. These are not the same as those specified and originally fitted at the factory. They will work, but I suspect that the gaps will need checking frequently and you don't want to be doing that on the RH bank do you? The triple electrode type are long lasting and virtually maintenance free. As I said, when I inspected mine at 60,000 miles they were perfect. It's not a good idea to follow what Mr. Previous Owner did. Find out what should be there and act accordingly. Simon
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26th November 2019, 15:49 | #64 |
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Hmm that's interesting. Didn't know about that up until now. Thought that the ones fitted were still the original ones since there was the part nr printed on them. Will look into that too.
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27th November 2019, 17:37 | #65 |
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Bingo! Problem solved. I think you remember I mentioned that I replaced the front 3 plugs, gave the car a run and everything was perfect, and after replacing the rear ones it was misfiring again. Well, turns out that the spark plug for number 2 was the culprit, today I thought well let's just put back the old plugs in the rear and see how it runs since it was fine before replacing those, and when doing so, found out that the new plug for cylinder 2 had the eletrodes practically touching eachother I don't know how that could've happened, I guess I dropped the plug before fitting it and didn't notice that at all when inatalling it Lesson learned atleast, always be careful with the smallest details haha. I guess sometimes the most basic and simple stuff turns out to be the solution in most cases.
As a note though, I still did the compression test and it revealed that the engine is still going strong, values between 145-150 psi for all cylinders. No vacuum leaks and fuel pressure is normal. I couldn't wait to get my car back on the road again, a big thank you to EVERYBODY that contributed to solving this matter and helping me out in the process! Next thing to look out for is how the tappets ticking will develop going further. After the oil flush it is noticeably better, about 70-80% gone I'd say, but still there, will see about that if it gets worse in the future |
27th November 2019, 18:27 | #66 | |||
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Well done. Remember my little story from earlier ... Quote:
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As for the hydraulic tappets, I'm very pleased to hear that the flushing oil made a significant difference. Simon
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27th November 2019, 19:18 | #67 |
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Well moral is everything that's too small is not pleasing at all ahahah. I am thinking about doing a flush again, but I'm not really sure it'a worth it, for the first flush, the flushing oil came out almost same color as it went it, I really was wondered how clean the engine was, not even a trace of gunk, I have to replace the oil anyway since I put in the cheapest oil I found until fixing the problem. I hope that now if the misfire is cured I will not get anymore fuel pushed inside the crankcase
Last edited by Rsnail; 27th November 2019 at 19:22.. |
27th November 2019, 19:55 | #68 | |||
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Simon
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27th November 2019, 19:57 | #69 | |
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27th November 2019, 20:17 | #70 |
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Then I guess I'll do another flush when I have some spare time, I know that every oil will be good as long as it meets the specs but I've always run the car with Motul 6100 10w40 and I intend to stay with that.
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