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Old 11th November 2019, 17:36   #71
SD1too
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... he told me that he opened the bearings of the aux pulleys and filled them with some kind of special grease ... I am still not sure if I should believe him or not ...
I'm not surprised. That is a fantastic story.
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... he claims, they are working perfectly fine and noise-free now ...
We've heard your engine running. It's noisy. I think you said that there's been no improvement. So how does he know that the pulleys are not responsible for this noise as he hasn't renewed them? (Answer: he doesn't.)

I've renewed my pulleys Galambosi and I can assure you that it results in an unmistakable improvement of noise levels.
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... maybe the tensioner and idler pulleys were exactly the ones responsible for the tapping noise and not the lifters as I'm presuming now ...
Indeed. Time to change mechanic I'd say, or even better, do it yourself.

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Old 11th November 2019, 21:31   #72
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Yes indeed it's quite a story huh. He said that after filling them with the special grease they weren't making any noises at all when spinning them, but I still think that it's not the way to properly do it and it's still not the same as when the pulleys are spinning at much higher speeds and with the tension of the belt on them. Anyways. I have the new aux tensioner and idler pulleys. Is it a complicated task to replace them? The only things I've done by myself engine related is replacing the intake manifold, thermostat and spark plugs, I'm saying this just so that one could evaluate my level of experience and say if I'm prepared to do these pulleys by myself without getting into trouble... I am thinking that since it's only the aux pulleys, the special timing tools won't be necessary here, are they? And also, if anyone could point out to me some key things to take care of when doing this task I'd really be grateful.

Also, I'll also have to replace the crank pulley by myself too, turns out my mechanic couldn't wait for that too, this was a really shameful job he did, the least I could say I am thinking, and this is more guessing by the way, that I would have to release the tension put on the belt by the main belt tensioner, unscrew the crank pulley, replace it and then put everything back together, although, if the crankshaft needs to be locked with the special tools or if it's not as straightforward as I guess I'd better leave it to a more serious mechanic willing to do the job for me, I really don't want to mess with the timing tools if I don't really know what I'm doing.

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Old 11th November 2019, 23:01   #73
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He said that after filling them with the special grease they weren't making any noises at all when spinning them ...
I question the mechanic's story. I don't believe that it is possible to dismantle the pulleys for re-greasing, then reassemble them. These sort of components have for decades been made as disposable items.
Quote:
I have the new aux tensioner and idler pulleys. Is it a complicated task to replace them? .... since it's only the aux pulleys, the special timing tools won't be necessary here, are they?
You won't need the special timing tools. As you've removed the manifold chamber to renew your thermostat I think that you'll be able to tackle the ancillary drive belt. The only awkward task I remember is access to some of the bolts securing the engine mounting bracket to the front plate.
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I'll also have to replace the crank pulley by myself too ...
I'm not convinced that this is necessary. It's the diesel crankshaft pulley which disintegrates, the petrol engines don't have this problem. I would leave that alone if I were you.

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Old 11th November 2019, 23:46   #74
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It's really hard for me to believe him toon I think he was just trying to talk himself out. I am tired of guessing and not being sure so I bought a mechanics stethoscope and when it arrives I'll know atleast if the tapping is coming from the inside of the engine or from a timing/aux part... Also, I checked RAVE and the aux pulleys are pretty straightforward to replace, I noticed that you have to support the engine on a jack, where exactly would the supporting point be in this case?
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Old 12th November 2019, 08:46   #75
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I think he was just trying to talk himself out.

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I am tired of guessing and not being sure ...
Indeed, and the way to remove the uncertainty is to do the job yourself. Once you have the ancillary belt off you will be able to spin the pulleys and assess their condition and make your own decision based upon that. There's nothing better than seeing for yourself.
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I noticed that you have to support the engine on a jack, where exactly would the supporting point be in this case?
I placed mine under the sump with a piece of softwood between the jack pad and the engine.

I think that once you get started you'll wonder why ever you paid a garage in the first place.

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Old 12th November 2019, 13:55   #76
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You are right Simon. Would I need a torque wrench to fit the aux pulleys? I was also thinking, since he re-greased the aux tensioner pulley, could it be possible that there's a problem with the aux tensioner itself that would cause the ticking? I don't think this would be really plausible but still worth asking. The aux belt seems normally tight and not wobbling around not even a milimeter
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Old 13th November 2019, 13:15   #77
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Would I need a torque wrench to fit the aux pulleys?
There are five items for which a torque setting is specified. One of these, the top arm bracket to RH engine mounting, requires 100 Nm. If you're going to do this job to a high standard then it makes sense to invest in a torque wrench. I own four.
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... could it be possible that there's a problem with the aux tensioner itself that would cause the ticking?
It's possible, yes, but I doubt the authenticity of your mechanic's story. Another club member assured me that the pulley component is the same as the idler and can be detached for renewal. Neither that nor the complete tensioner assembly is expensive (from memory about £70).
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The aux belt seems normally tight and not wobbling around not even a millimetre
But you can't see the tensioner when the engine is running and attached to its mounting, so how would you know?

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Old 13th November 2019, 22:23   #78
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I meant that the belt doesn't seem loose when pulling it with the fingers, although, I know, that isn't by far a great fault evaluating way haha, and on the visible pulleys it's running straight... Meanwhile, I received a video from the mechanic when he was almost done with the job. Here it is: Video

I know there's not much to figure out from here but when he turns the phone's camera you can clearly hear the ticking louder so it would've been logical for me atleast to check exactly where it's coming from with all that available space in there and with the covers off... Anyways, I am trying to find a couple of hours of spare time to get this done by myself, will come back here and hopefully will be able to identify the culprit until then, in the meanwhile I am waiting for my flush material to arrive, would I need yo fit a new filter right before doing the flush or is it ok to do the flush with the only drained of oil old filter? And then fit the new one after the flush of course.
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Old 13th November 2019, 22:42   #79
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... would I need to fit a new filter right before doing the flush or is it ok to do the flush with the ... old filter?
Using a new filter just for the flush has the advantage that there's no used oil in the mix. If you choose this option it would be wise to fill the filter with flushing oil before fitting it since the sump will be half full. The disadvantage is financial. You've paid for a filter which sees service for ten or fifteen minutes.

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Old 13th November 2019, 23:14   #80
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That wouldn't be no problem for me, atleast I know that I'm doing the job as good as possible. Also read on different forums that ATF also is a really good flushing and cleaning element. Some recommend draining 1l of oil and filling the engine up with 1l of ATF about 50 miles before an oil change for cleaning the internals, some say it makes wonders while other say that ATF is a fluid (not an oil) that is supposed to increase the grip on the internal gears of a transmission (which would be bad for an engine) while also keeping things smooth and lubrified, as opposed to engine oil which has only one main purpose, lubrifying. If someone tried this and could share their experiences I would really appreciate it, I don't want to mess things up more than they are haha, and I don't like doing things only because I heard from some random Joe that it made wonders for his pickup truck.

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