Ticking noise

[COLVERT]

There are also branded oils that are recommended for both petrol and diesel engines. They can be used in both.

If the tappet seal is worn, and leaking, a thinner oil might make it worse.

[Rsnail]

So would I need 5.2 litres of the flushing oil? I am asking because in the case of the comma flush out, they say that filling with only half of the engine's oil capacity will be enough for a flush. And also, what do they mean with "leave the engine fast idle for.about 10 minutes"? What exactly is a fast idle haha

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Rsnail

So would I need 5.2 litres of the flushing oil?

Start by finding a product available in Germany then consult the manufacturer's instructions. If you decide to buy Comma Flush Out from the UK then yes, it is supplied in a 5 litre container. This will be just right for two treatments. The price, excluding international carriage, will be between £15 and £20.

And also, what do they mean with "leave the engine fast idle for.about 10 minutes"? What exactly is a fast idle ha ha

Fast idle is the speed at which your engine runs when started from cold. It can vary depending upon how low the ambient temperature is. I run my engine at about 1,100 rpm when using flushing oil.

Simon

[T-Cut]

I place a brick on the throttle pedal to run the engine unattended at 1200-1500 rpm during oil or coolant flushes. I prefer at least an hour to get everything really hot and wetted. But ensure the cooling system and fan are in working order.



TC

[Rsnail]

Fan and cooling system are in 100% working conditions, I made sure of that long ago. I found something in Germany too, from Liqui Moly, but that'a just an additive and I don't buy any additive stories anymore, I would be buying the comma flush out since I've read good reviews about it. So is it ok to leave the engine running for an hour at 1200-1500 rpm with only half the capacity of what it normally holds? I am only asking for certainty, I don't want to make more bad than good, and I know there's the risk that the seals might start leaking as the gunk that covers them and keeps the seals practically sealed will not be there to act as a second barrier anymore. But if that won't happen in my case, will the Comma product reach the lifters too and clean them? Read somewhere on the forum that flushing oils are too thick or something like that and they won't help with the lifters

[T-Cut]

Flushing oils aren't any thicker than standartd oil. Indeed, they're usually a monograde, lower viscosity oil containing detergents, dispersants and antifoams. They're designed to get everywhere the engine oil can get, but more easily and with detergent effects. IF (in caps) a tappet is so contaminated that the normal oil can't circulate through the internal piston, a flushing oil MAY resolve it. Flushing oils are unlikely to make an oil seal leak unless it's already well worn and in need of replacement. If you want to know more, Google 'flushing oil'.

Personally, I fill the sump to at least the normal minimum point on the dipstick with a mix of flushing oil and a cheap diesel oil (also has good detergency/dispersion). I would't run for an hour with a half charge of oil. I don't flush at every oil change.

TC

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Rsnail

... I would be buying the Comma Flush Out ... is it ok to leave the engine running for an hour at 1200-1500 rpm with only half the capacity of what it normally holds?

As this is your first experience with Flush Out, I recommend that you follow the manufacturer's instructions on the carton. From memory they specify something like ten minutes' running.

Originally Posted by Rsnail

... will the Comma product reach the lifters too and clean them?

Yes, but you may need more than one treatment if they are badly contaminated. Start with one dose of Flush Out before refilling with your chosen 10W40 and see how the engine sounds. If little improvement, repeat the treatment at your next oil change, say after 3,000 miles. That would be my advice.

Simon

[Rsnail]

Thank you guys so much for the advices! Your explanations are so helpful. I really have to thank you again for making such a great community out of this forum! I have one more question though before I start the cleaning process, if there's much contamination coming out with the first flush, wouldn't it make sense to fill up the engine right after the first flush and let it run for another 10 minutes and then flush it again?

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Rsnail

... if there's much contamination coming out with the first flush, wouldn't it make sense to .... flush it again?

You can do that if you wish, yes, but I guarantee that the flushing oil will look black whether you have noisy tappets or not. Therefore one flush might be successful and the only way you will know is by refilling with 10W40 with a new filter and driving the car.

Simon

[Rsnail]

Well I've got some rather confusing news to say so... the mechanic that carried the timing job told me that he didn't have the time to wait until the new aux belt tensioner and idler pulleys arrived because he has a garage with only one place for a car and since it took more than one week for those to arrive it's totally understandable, and therefore, he told me that he opened the bearings of the aux pulleys and filled them with some kind of special grease and as he claims, they are working perfectly fine and noise-free now. I am still not sure if I should believe him or not, and even if he filled them with that grease, I really don't think that it would help resurrecting the dead horse, maybe the tensioner and idler pulleys were exactly the ones responsible for the tapping noise and not the lifters as I'm presuming now, even though the noise is not that hearable from the front side of the engine as it is from the rear where the small cambelts are... And I asked him more than once if he's sure that the aux pulleys that he filled with grease are not the ones responsible for the tapping noise and he assured me that they aren't