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5th September 2018, 19:15 | #11 | ||
Give to Learn
Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010
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Quote:
You were lucky there it had not eaten it's way through, were the under side parts ok where you jack the car up? sadly I was not so lucky 1 2 Corroded both sides at the rear. 3 My temporary fix for the Nano meet both out of one piece of metal, worked into shape 4
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
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5th September 2018, 19:42 | #12 |
This is my second home
rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009
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Ouch!!! That looks bad Steve Fortunately I caught mine before too much damage Noticed a few ginger bits in the paint & when I scraped back found just metal, hadn't got as bad as yours, dodged a bullet methinks
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5th September 2018, 19:44 | #13 |
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Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010
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Lest we forget..
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5th September 2018, 20:59 | #14 |
Loves to post
Rover 75 Tourer, 2 X75 Saloon , MGTF Sunstorm Join Date: Jan 2013
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Likely source ?
The question was raised as to the source of the water rotting the sill rear. I VERY much suspect the Chrome finisher strips running along the cars and especially over the rear wings.
When I bought one of my 75’s I found a considerable boot leak . Naturally , I first cleaned and treated / sealed the rear window grips ( see excellent How to by Rich) . Then I turned to the Finisher Strips and traced the source to the associated grips / holes. I forced the finishers away from the car bodywork ( actually used Costa Coffee wooden stirrers !) and then applied thick Silicone Sealant all behind the chrome strips . Killed the boot leak dead! Now I note that some of the finisher strip grips / holes lay directly above the when arches / Rear jack points. I have now repeated the Silicone down the entire car length behind the finishers. With regard to the :- • Sills , I now have them thickly internally coated with Dinitrol Wax • Jack points , I have lifted the rubbers , removed any rust on the plinth just above them , then applied rust converter , then Epoxy Mastic and , finally a thick layer of Dinitrol. Then , off course , replaced the rubber seal. If a couple of finisher grip /holes can flood a boot think what they can do with water running down into a sill ? Any observations welcome. |
5th September 2018, 23:16 | #15 |
Posted a thing or two
75 Conn CDT Tourer, 75 Conn SE V6, 75 Conn V6, 75 Conn CDTi Tourer, ZS 180 Join Date: Jan 2014
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It's completely normal for water to enter the internal cavities of a car bodyshell (there are simply too many access points for manufacturers to be able to seal everything completely). Couple that to the condensation that will naturally occur on the inside of panels in the winter and you can see it's inevitable that damp will get inside and run to the bottom, due to gravity.
There has been plenty of discussion about why the rear sills on 75/ZT rot out and having completed quite extensive repairs previously on my Tourer, my own thoughts are as follows: Firstly, there is a drain hole at the rear of the sill, so as long as this isn't blocked, water should eventually escape. However, just ahead of this is the internal jacking bracket. Surprisingly, this is welded to the vertical part of the inner sill, but NOT to the flat lower section of the outer sill. Here, it just rests against it. This leaves a very small gap between the two (the outer sill being far thinner metal), but it's enough space for the water to collect between the two panels and not dry out. Secondly, if the jacking pads are not fitted, the remaining (quite large) hole that's left in the sill, will allow water and mud that's thrown up to collect inside the internal jacking bracket. Unfortunately, the edges of this are turned up to increase it's strength but this then means that anything that's wet and corrosive will collect inside and can't get out. Lastly, the rear section of sill (unlike the front jacking point, although these are starting to go on older 75's nowadays) are connected directly to the rear quarter panel. Any moisture that collects inside this panel (from trim clips, condensation, etc.) and is over the front half of the rear wheelarch, HAS to run into the rear of the sill before it can escape out onto the road - hence the back section gets more than it's fair share of moisture to deal with. Personally, I'm a fan of leaving the jacking pads fitted to keep the worst of the muck spray out, but leaving them out in the hot summer months to allow warmer air to circulate and dry things out as. There are also various holes where wax/oil can be inserted - behind the arch liner, on the inner sill and from behind the sill chrome strip, so any thin rust prevention fluid that'll squeeze itself under the jacking bracket has got to be good news if the sills are dried out properly first. It's always a shame to hear of good cars possibly being scrapped just because this small area is starting to rust. Younger members of this forum will not be aware of corrosion in the 70's and 80's, when you could end up spending your weekends welding on complete length sills (not just 12" ) and continuing on to add rear wheelarches, spare wheel wells, door pillar bottoms, inner door frames and skins, front suspension top mounts, front panels and even footwells that had tin plate pop-riveted on to cover the holes ! Just ask Oxford Blue about a certain green Renault 12 estate...
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5th September 2018, 23:55 | #16 | |
Avid contributor
52 ZT 190 Solar Red. 54 ZT 190 SE Ignition Blue. 54 ZT 190 SE Rio Red. 05 ZT 1.8T Aurora Join Date: Mar 2015
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Quote:
The jacking point is solid. I quickly checked as the car is jacked up currently with rear wheel off. It was caked in muck under the arch liner. I had removed the muck with a hose, wire brushed and rubbed down rust spots and put 3 coats of Hammerite on before I saw the sill. I was wire brushing the suspension when I noticed the sill. The inner sill is solid so just going to cut metal patch to fit and Mig weld in. Just hoping I can match the paint as it is Posiedon flip paint. |
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6th September 2018, 00:05 | #17 | |
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52 ZT 190 Solar Red. 54 ZT 190 SE Ignition Blue. 54 ZT 190 SE Rio Red. 05 ZT 1.8T Aurora Join Date: Mar 2015
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I have checked out Tom Hobbs website but no pictures of completed spray jobs. Does he only panel beat? Adrian |
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6th September 2018, 00:27 | #18 | |
Avid contributor
52 ZT 190 Solar Red. 54 ZT 190 SE Ignition Blue. 54 ZT 190 SE Rio Red. 05 ZT 1.8T Aurora Join Date: Mar 2015
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Will check the trim for leaks as you suggest. |
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6th September 2018, 06:01 | #19 |
I really should get out more.......
MG ZT 180+ auto Join Date: May 2016
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Tom will paint sills and bits but not full resprays. He says a big cause of the corrosion is a foam pad in the sill. He removes it when doing the job. He charges £100 a side for sills like Arctics. My Cowley was worse and that was the price. She will be at the Nano Satvif anyone wants a peek!
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6th September 2018, 09:59 | #20 | |
Avid contributor
52 ZT 190 Solar Red. 54 ZT 190 SE Ignition Blue. 54 ZT 190 SE Rio Red. 05 ZT 1.8T Aurora Join Date: Mar 2015
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I usually use Dynax on my box sections but I have only had this ZTT 4 weeks and not had chance yet doing other things to it. It is good stuff. I have just ordered 2 cans to do it. Why do you add Waxoyl to Dynax? Adrian |
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