New rear upper arms fitted.

[Mogodon]

After my mot tester advised my upper arms were starting to look a bit crusty but nothing to panic about I finally got them ordered and delivered and fitting kits (thanks DMGRS).

The garage I use are happy to fit supplied parts and unlike some, happy to work on MGR's.

Just got it back, they said it wasn't the easiest job in the world, and the subframe bolts were a "fight", but got them out without snapping the captive nuts off (they used an inductive heater to help free them).

While they had the arms off I asked them to inspect the drop links and also replace if not tip-top which they did.

So (not including the arms and fitting kits) 3hrs Labour and a pair of drop links £237 inc VAT and old arms and drop links in the boot !!!!!!

So overall, not at all unhappy as to what it could have cost.

[Heddy]

I'll probably be looking at having the same done too after this years MOT. If they pass, then next year. I've also got an 'independent' who does the major stuff, he doesn't mind working on the car at all, and I always supply the parts. My last 75 (a Mk1) was scrapped needing those arms, a power steering pump and an MOT, decided it wasn't worth it. It had 175k on the clock which wasn't the deciding factor, it was just tired.

[trikey]

Well done finding a garage who has the knowledge and patience to battle the captive nuts.

They can be troublesome little swines.

[marinabrian]

I'd be interested to know how they employed an inductive heater on the pivot bolts....the access shall we say is somewhat "limited"

Anyway a result all the same, so are you planning on applying any rust preventative to the new arms?

Brian

[Mogodon]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

I'd be interested to know how they employed an inductive heater on the pivot bolts....the access shall we say is somewhat "limited"

Anyway a result all the same, so are you planning on applying any rust preventative to the new arms?

Brian

Im intending to coat the cavities with waxoyle , the outsides i'm in two minds to also waxoyle or coat with underseal.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Mogodon

Im intending to coat the cavities with waxoyle , the outsides i'm in two minds to also waxoyle or coat with underseal.

I would get it done quickly what ever you do, as there is no protection whatsoever inside the new arms......just a light coating of flaky black paint and lots of rust if you leave them

The new arm supplier is going to dip the next run of arms to ensure total coverage

Brian

[trikey]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

The new arm supplier is going to dip the next run of arms to ensure total coverage

That's good news Bri, hopefully they will last a bit longer!

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

I would get it done quickly what ever you do, as there is no protection whatsoever inside the new arms......just a light coating of flaky black paint and lots of rust if you leave them
Brian

This has got me thinking about my 'spare' car which I keep mot'd. It obviously had new upper and lower arms shortly before I bought it two years back. Should I strip down the rear suspension to grit blast and treat these components before serious rust sets in, assuming it hasn't already. But trying to do this job outside in the winter isn't a pleasant prospect, and if I suddenly need the spare car as a result of unexpected failure of the daily 75..........

[Best_of_British]

Not saying this is the best stuff, but I've just covered the inside of the arms I fitted a few months ago with this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-x-Dinit...MAAOSwSFVboR4J

Did the arms and sills, for under £40, seemed ok.

Used this to cover the outside as they appear poorly protected in the outside as well

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DINITROL-...MAAOSwmudaCvMg

I am not changing them again, so will treat them every year or two to make sure they last.

Sent from my Redmi 4A using Tapatalk

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

This has got me thinking about my 'spare' car which I keep mot'd. It obviously had new upper and lower arms shortly before I bought it two years back. Should I strip down the rear suspension to grit blast and treat these components before serious rust sets in, assuming it hasn't already. But trying to do this job outside in the winter isn't a pleasant prospect, and if I suddenly need the spare car as a result of unexpected failure of the daily 75..........

I'll let you decide how I would answer that question






The new arms were not fitted prior to treatment, both in shaping, welding, then shot blasting courtesy of a good friend, then painting first in Bonda anti rust primer, followed by four coats of chassis black, followed by a good dose of cavity wax.

The supplied coating is fairly......how can I say this........oh yes cack

Brian