Any Suggestions

tony2021 · 15th December 2023, 09:36

Last month, I made the mistake of taking my ZT V6 190+ swimming. A big mistake. The road was flooded and I mis-judged the depth of the water and even after owning the car for 20 years, I still didn't realise how low down the air intake is. The result is that the engine sucked up water and died just after getting back on dry road. The worse thing is the car was in great condition - up until then.

I have been trying to nurse it back to life since then. After cleaning out the plugs, the engine restarted but with steam coming out of the exhaust and a sludgy brown liquid (petrol + water?) leaking back out of the air intake (air filter removed). The engine ran for a while before cutting out.

Since then I have been trying to get an improvement and it is now starting and, running at idle speed and getting up to operating temperature, but still with steam coming out of the exhaust - and sludgy brown liquid coming out of the air intake. The oil is now starting to look like there is water in it and I suspect that the coolant is going down.

My guess is that the damage was more serious than I first hoped and that this may be the end of the road for a well loved car in otherwise good condition.

Any suggestions on what to do next are welcome.

Ed3 · 15th December 2023, 09:51

To be the first to comment in what should become a long thread - around 1980 era i had a student job driving old coaches 45/52 seat coaches and the owner of the business (30+ coaches) told me that after heavy rain for a few days with buses driving in floods he would wait a week or so for the rain to stop and then make sure to change the oil of every bus. He said water does get into the oil.

Jeff Turbo · 15th December 2023, 13:49

I would change the oil and filter, air filter, clean all plugs , leads and anything else that would have got wet.
If you're lucky there will be no damage. When my wife did this to our ford sapphire 30 years ago it knackered the big ends after the engine locked

DMGRS · 15th December 2023, 14:59

I'd go with the above - give her a service, make sure the oil is fresh etc then monitor.
It's unlikely, but could be a co-incidental oil cooler failure - these allow oil into the coolant and vice-versa when they go pop.
Until a couple of years ago we'd not sold a single one - now we seem to sell around 1-2 a week!

This is the item in question: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/75-...-kv6-pbc000031

We have Service Kits here too: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...service-kit-v6

Synchromesh · 15th December 2023, 16:27

I have had my 2000 75 V6 from new. Many years ago I was doing something under the front nearside wheel arch and I noticed that the original air intake pipe had perished. The pipe was made of paper or fabric with a helical steel wire liner to stop it collapsing. The pipe went from the air box down underneath the chassis to the bottom of the wheel arch close to the ground then back up to the top of the wheel arch with a plastic bell mouth at the top where the air enters the pipe (close to the fuse box). The pipe was almost perished along its entire length but had actually holed right at the bottom under the chassis. I would have only had to drive through very shallow water for it to be ingested. I replaced the paper pipe with a plastic one and sealed the ends where it connected to the air box and bell mouth. I don't know if the ZT has the same or similar air intake arrangement.

suzublu · 15th December 2023, 16:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synchromesh

I have had my 2000 75 V6 from new. Many years ago I was doing something under the front nearside wheel arch and I noticed that the original air intake pipe had perished. The pipe was made of paper or fabric with a helical steel wire liner to stop it collapsing. The pipe went from the air box down underneath the chassis to the bottom of the wheel arch close to the ground then back up to the top of the wheel arch with a plastic bell mouth at the top where the air enters the pipe (close to the fuse box). The pipe was almost perished along its entire length but had actually holed right at the bottom under the chassis. I would have only had to drive through very shallow water for it to be ingested. I replaced the paper pipe with a plastic one and sealed the ends where it connected to the air box and bell mouth. I don't know if the ZT has the same or similar air intake arrangement.

Shannon tube, they all rot. V6's are slightly different to 1.8's for example. Took mine off completely and fitted induction, on top of the engine bay so no chance of water ingress

Sent from my SM-A145R using Tapatalk

Ed3 · 16th December 2023, 15:42

I am not familiar with Rover 75 petrol engines. On old era 1980s/90s 4 cylinder petrol engines we would for various reason often leave the spark plugs out with coil low tension disconnected and spin the engine over fast. After an engine rebuild it was a good way to get oil all over vital parts before trying to start the car. Would this help at all to get water away from key parts ?

15th December 2023, 09:36	#1
tony2021 Newbie MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: Darlington Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 11 Times in 5 Posts	Any Suggestions Last month, I made the mistake of taking my ZT V6 190+ swimming. A big mistake. The road was flooded and I mis-judged the depth of the water and even after owning the car for 20 years, I still didn't realise how low down the air intake is. The result is that the engine sucked up water and died just after getting back on dry road. The worse thing is the car was in great condition - up until then. I have been trying to nurse it back to life since then. After cleaning out the plugs, the engine restarted but with steam coming out of the exhaust and a sludgy brown liquid (petrol + water?) leaking back out of the air intake (air filter removed). The engine ran for a while before cutting out. Since then I have been trying to get an improvement and it is now starting and, running at idle speed and getting up to operating temperature, but still with steam coming out of the exhaust - and sludgy brown liquid coming out of the air intake. The oil is now starting to look like there is water in it and I suspect that the coolant is going down. My guess is that the damage was more serious than I first hoped and that this may be the end of the road for a well loved car in otherwise good condition. Any suggestions on what to do next are welcome.

15th December 2023, 13:49	#3
Jeff Turbo Loves to post MGZT cdti Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Lincoln Posts: 475 Thanks: 5 Thanked 28 Times in 24 Posts	I would change the oil and filter, air filter, clean all plugs , leads and anything else that would have got wet. If you're lucky there will be no damage. When my wife did this to our ford sapphire 30 years ago it knackered the big ends after the engine locked __________________ 1958 White Ford Consul Convertible 1965 Gold Ford Zodiac Executive 1997 Blue Jaguar Xk8 Convertible 2004 Monogram Poseidon MGZT cdti 2004 Pearl Black MGZT 260

15th December 2023, 14:59	#4
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	I'd go with the above - give her a service, make sure the oil is fresh etc then monitor. It's unlikely, but could be a co-incidental oil cooler failure - these allow oil into the coolant and vice-versa when they go pop. Until a couple of years ago we'd not sold a single one - now we seem to sell around 1-2 a week! This is the item in question: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/75-...-kv6-pbc000031 We have Service Kits here too: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...service-kit-v6 __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

15th December 2023, 09:51	#2
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 306 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	To be the first to comment in what should become a long thread - around 1980 era i had a student job driving old coaches 45/52 seat coaches and the owner of the business (30+ coaches) told me that after heavy rain for a few days with buses driving in floods he would wait a week or so for the rain to stop and then make sure to change the oil of every bus. He said water does get into the oil.

15th December 2023, 16:27	#5
Synchromesh Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Preston Posts: 624 Thanks: 50 Thanked 44 Times in 32 Posts	I have had my 2000 75 V6 from new. Many years ago I was doing something under the front nearside wheel arch and I noticed that the original air intake pipe had perished. The pipe was made of paper or fabric with a helical steel wire liner to stop it collapsing. The pipe went from the air box down underneath the chassis to the bottom of the wheel arch close to the ground then back up to the top of the wheel arch with a plastic bell mouth at the top where the air enters the pipe (close to the fuse box). The pipe was almost perished along its entire length but had actually holed right at the bottom under the chassis. I would have only had to drive through very shallow water for it to be ingested. I replaced the paper pipe with a plastic one and sealed the ends where it connected to the air box and bell mouth. I don't know if the ZT has the same or similar air intake arrangement.

16th December 2023, 15:42	#7
Ed3 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTi saloon Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: UK Posts: 306 Thanks: 88 Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts	I am not familiar with Rover 75 petrol engines. On old era 1980s/90s 4 cylinder petrol engines we would for various reason often leave the spark plugs out with coil low tension disconnected and spin the engine over fast. After an engine rebuild it was a good way to get oil all over vital parts before trying to start the car. Would this help at all to get water away from key parts ?