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Old 27th November 2019, 17:43   #1
MGJohn
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Cool MISSION POSSIBLE .. upcoming. ( Picture Size Reduced )

Your mission MGJohn, should you wish to accept it, is to fit these four little gizmos to one of your favourite MG ZT-Ts... ( Not the one with the MG6 Engine... :~




Hmmm... OK, I accept. Will start just as soon as the Sun comes out again... Given the current weather locally and Nationwide, that could be probably in the Spring.

More to follow... watch this space ... the fun will start in the not too distant future... with lots of pictures.
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File Type: jpg RESIZE #2 SHIM Project IMG_0212.jpg (40.2 KB, 256 views)

Last edited by MGJohn; 14th December 2019 at 20:29..
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Old 27th November 2019, 18:19   #2
Lovel
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.004” or .003” ?
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Old 27th November 2019, 18:50   #3
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Lots more BIG pictures.---


Any chance you could make them screen size and not HUGE ??----
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Old 27th November 2019, 19:04   #4
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Better off sourcing a decent block John, the 1400 ones are generally better, then drilling and tapping the oil drain for the turbo.

Once annealed, the blocks are basically scrap, and shimming the liners is a temporary bodge

Brian
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Old 27th November 2019, 19:51   #5
MGJohn
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Default A learning curve for this old dawg.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
Better off sourcing a decent block John, the 1400 ones are generally better, then drilling and tapping the oil drain for the turbo.

Once annealed, the blocks are basically scrap, and shimming the liners is a temporary bodge

Brian
Aware of that possibility nagging away in the back of my mind Brian. I believe my older son Martin has a good 1.4 Block. May go that way if things do not work out well. The car is a nice-ish one and worth a bit of TLC... The Bonus for me being I shall learn "on the job"... I have done a similar job on cylinder #4 on a 1.8 VVC which worked out well. This job will be that x4.

Even so, it is a learning curve and I want to see how my work shapes up. No harm done if it goes wrong in no time. I shall enjoy the work and do my best to ensure it all is prepared well and goes back together very carefully. No time gun held to my head. I have other cars to use.

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Originally Posted by Lovel View Post
.004” or .003” ?
Good Question Mission 007...

A web search reveals "4THOU"...for the Rimmer Part Number LCJ000050SHIM which is what I have from them.

Now this is where it gets puzzling. They are VERY thin. All I can see on the labels is the following :~

HHTLS 0.002

So... 4THOU or 0.002...

Another search could not throw light on those 5 Letters... Maybe the final two letters LS = Liner shim... H = Height ... ??

I shall look for my Micrometer and that may reveal more and solve the puzzle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
Lots more BIG pictures.---


Any chance you could make them screen size and not HUGE ??----
They/it is a perfect fit on my LapTop Screen. I do not know how to reduce their size when posting. Maybe at source by reducing the size choice on my NIKON Compact Digital.. ... any pointers here appreciated.
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Old 28th November 2019, 13:51   #6
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Default Rain stopped play ... AGAIN.

Support British Product...

It actually stopped raining long enough to dry somewhat allowing an opportunity to set the car up safely for working underneath the engine. Using my 3 ton Trolley Jack under the front Jacking Point in the middle of the sub-frame, soon had the car high enough to place a drive-on ramp under the sills jacking pads on each side. A block of wood between the Ramps and the plastic Jacking Pads where they interface in the sills.

I have reset the image size on my compact digital camera but, this means annoyingly the date facility cannot be used. I like to have that but, at least the embedded images are now a more convenient size.









When I fitted a new Cylinder Head Gasket to this car four years ago, I also fitted better quality Exhaust Manifold Studs, Nuts and washers. The Studs have an Allen Key facility which makes working on these areas so much more convenient and easier. No chance of corrosion welded Studs and Nuts there unlike the factory originals. Recommended. Do not over torque.





With the car not being used, I have connected a Solar Battery Charger to maintain battery Voltage Power. They do that well. One like this :~



Damn... size matters as the saying goes. Just popped out to get a smaller image of the Solar Charger ... IT'S RAINING quite heavily ... AGAIN!

An hour ago, I could see a break in the clouds and weak sunshine about thirty miles away. Hope it heads my way. FAT CHANCE. Can make a positive start then. Fed up with getting all the tools out ready then down comes the wet stuff all over the job and tools.

Rain stopped play for today ... I know my place when the Weather Gods are out to get me.. Paranoid moi ( note some EU content I did there ) ...... maybe just a tad ...

Ongoing.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0220.jpg (40.9 KB, 304 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0221.jpg (42.1 KB, 298 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0222.jpg (40.4 KB, 300 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0224.jpg (48.0 KB, 302 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0226.jpg (38.8 KB, 304 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0225.jpg (39.7 KB, 299 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0227.JPG (107.6 KB, 300 views)
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Old 2nd December 2019, 19:20   #7
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Default More progress ... slowly in very cold Sunshine.

Heaviest frost of the early winter so far. Very cold.

Even so, strong low winter sunshine with few clouds encouraged me to make a start. Some good progress.

Quickly had the Coil Packs and Camshaft Cover removed revealing a very clean Double OverHead CAMshaft area. Pleased to see that although some very small traces of Water-Oil mix... The whole of the underside of the bonnet surface and most of the engine compartment was covered in condensation. Unheated cars become a crude 'fridge in these weather conditions. All the metal had been super cold for the past two days and as the Sunshine appeared, moisture in the high humidity air collected on the very cold metal surfaces. As it does sometimes inside your refrigerator. Whole working area of the engine compartment very wet from condensation build up. I cleared most of it up with an old Kitchen Sponge.

Condensation build up.


Water Build in Suspension Strut Upper Mount area. That explains how those Nuts and threads become corroded over the years. That's water trapped in that cupped Top Washer.


Pleased to see how clean the revealed CAMshaft area was. A bonus from my work on this 96,000 mile engine four years ago.


Even the Gasket was in good shape. When the engine over heated I half expected it to have destroyed the paint surfaces as sometimes happens even in a healthy engine.


Small traces of Water-Oil Mix. Condensation or?...


Also removed the two Retaining Bolts and Nuts to release the Alternator. I actually swung it forward to facilitate Cylinder Head and Exhaust Manifold access and removal.

Having done that, turned my attention to the FIVE Exhaust Manifold Nuts, Washers and Studs. Four years ago I treated this engine to a set of Stainless Steel, Allen Key Drive Ex-Manifold Studs, Brass Nuts and Washers. These still looked like new. No annoying corrosion to cause the usual problems and using these Allen Key Tools ( Socket and Key Shaft Colour Coded to facilitate size quick identification in the Tool Shed ~ a few minutes well spent four years ago when I was painting some weather boards .. white .. ) ) Those five Studs were soon removed. No struggle and delay due to pesky corrosion here.

Here's the tools for the job. Both useful because of various positions needed and other access restrictions.


Tools in action






End Product ~ One detached Exhaust Manifold. I carefully recovered the Exhaust Manifold Stainless Steel Gasket. It looks like new. So will reuse.


Sun then dropped quickly behind local Hills and then the temperature also dropped just as rapidly.



Both feet getting a tad numb with the cold. Time to pack away the tools. Enjoyed today's leisurely progress.

Ongoing.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cylinder Liner SHIM Task Day 2 (23).jpg (72.5 KB, 252 views)
File Type: jpg Cylinder Liner SHIM Task Day 2 (15).jpg (42.1 KB, 256 views)
File Type: jpg Cylinder Liner SHIM Task Day 2 (24).JPG (130.4 KB, 256 views)
File Type: jpg Cylinder Liner SHIM Task Day 2 (25).jpg (36.9 KB, 250 views)
File Type: jpg Cylinder Liner SHIM Task Day 2 (9).JPG (116.5 KB, 257 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0264.JPG (112.5 KB, 249 views)
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Old 2nd December 2019, 23:32   #8
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Default Off topic but, may be of interest. Battery and Cold Weather content.

By the way, whilst working on the ZT-T this afternoon in the bright sunshine, my younger son went out to his Rover 25 he's had for ten years. As he opened the door to get in, I asked him to get some milks as we were getting low. He drinks most of it...

Turns the key and that distinctive click-click-click~~~~.click-click-clickclick-click-click. Cue puzzled look on son's face... He's not too car savvy unlike his older sibling. Can you push me to bump start it Dad? No way, I can do better than that Son and fit a strong battery in about ten minutes.

A week or so ago, one very cold morning, same click-click-clickclick-click-clickclick-click-click when my wife tried to start her MG ZS with white frost all around. Her battery very low about 11.80 volts from the cold. No small battery to fit so took her for early medical appointment in the ZT-T.

Back home put that VARTA battery which is at least five years old on trickle charge and went straight in and ordered a replacement YUASA off ebay ~ that arrived within 24 hours!

So with the old Varta nicely charged and fitted to son's Rover 25, immediate start and away he went. I asked how was the car when he got back. Hasn't started that well for years apparently...

That's what Dad's are for ...

His old battery on trickle charge and looks like shaping up nicely. A few days lack of use with the remote alarm armed soon weakens the old battery in these prolonged cooler spells of winter conditions. I warned my so he may have to fork out for a new one soon. That YUASA according to my wife is just fine. The door buttons jump up an down vigorously when using the remote fob. Has not done that for a long time.
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Old 3rd December 2019, 10:14   #9
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Do the liners drop because of heat or because of the hammering effect ?

I was told that the head suffers after overheating which causes the liners to hammer up and down and that the block itself doesn't really suffer from the heat.

Pete.
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Old 3rd December 2019, 12:37   #10
MGJohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pletevl View Post
Do the liners drop because of heat or because of the hammering effect ?

I was told that the head suffers after overheating which causes the liners to hammer up and down and that the block itself doesn't really suffer from the heat.

Pete.
Good question Pete. I with limited knowledge understand that when a K-Series severely overheats, the integrity of the Cylinder Block and Head material is compromised and sometimes badly weakened. Cue loosening of liner locations and Fire Ring indents in Cylinder Head particularly the area close to Exhaust Valves.

I suspect one or both can play a part here depending on severity of excess heat. Only needs a slight weakening and enlargement of the Liner Location and that enables one or both the above scenarios.

The basically very similar MG6 1.8T engine ( Chinese version of Rover's K-Series ) I have been informed by someone when they worked for the Chinese operation at Longbridge, that the Chinese use a FORCED not GRAVITY fed casting process for those major engine components, the Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head. This must result in a stronger structure. When fitting the MG6 engine to one of my MG ZT-T 1.8Ts, there were a range of improvements clear to be seen. At the time the real improvement was unseen. That of the superior casting process.

There is a possibility of all my work being a waste of time. I will do it to the best of my caring ability with the benefit of not having a profit or time gun held to my head as is all too often the case in the pro-environment repair shop. By being thorough and taking my time ( no pressure to have car ready for journey to work tomorrow ) a competent repair should be the end result.

If after all that, it does not work out, no real harm done. It's mainly a learning experience for me which I enjoy.

By the way there is more than one example of MG6s with high mileages ( 200,000 mile plus ) one a Taxi, never needing much engine work at all, just regular servicing. Few Rover K-Series 1.8s can claim that. My 1.8 ZS bought new in 2003 now with 100,000 miles on it still no CHG issues... fingers crossed. I did catch a totally worn out Water Pump which if not spotted, would lead to cylinder head gasket DAMAGE on my MG ZS, which far too many confuse with failure both within the trade ( often conveniently for them ) and car consumer circles.

Sunny now so out with the tools soon. More progress today. Some updates later today may follow if of interest.
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