Cold air feed and filter upgrade - Page 2

Simon · 7th December 2006, 23:14

Just to clarify, here is the above picture with added red boxes

The first box (lower left) highlights the shannon tube where it enteres the bottom of the filter box. This is the lowest point of the air feed system.

The second box (upper right) higlights where the shannon tube ends. This is the highest point in the system and is designed to stop the engine sucking in water/spray/debris.

GreyGhost · 7th December 2006, 23:23

Ah yes now I have the full picture, some plastics could readily be made up to fit and would be generally self supporting. I presume Kandys is original and so is actually not in bad shape.

Simon · 7th December 2006, 23:59

Kandyman originally wrote a thread saying that he wanted to replace this shannon tube because his had worn where the wires had rubbed on it. When I removed mine it also had signs of wear on. I don't think the wear is detrimental to the engine or air intake performance but obviously if the shannon tube started to dissintergrate too much then pieces of the tube could potentially be sucked into the filter causing it to become blocked much more quickly than usual.

As we've said, a bit of drainpipe and 5min later and you can construct a simple and effective subsititute that would certainly be up to the task.

Simon · 1st January 2007, 19:03

Having got xmas over and done with!

it's now time I set about continuing with the air intake modification. For those of you who haven't read the previous posts now would be a good time to do so so you can get an idea for what I've already done.

The next stage I completed today. In order to help stop water-ingress into the airbox I've now used a cut-down length of shannon duct that points just to the side of the open vent in the bumper. This will hopefully be an improvement over the previous set up.

Whilst having my head wedged under the car (not a great position to be in...) I did notice that the wiring in the bumper area (although protected) was also getting wet. I intend to water proof the wiring, perhaps with liquid wax (such as waxoyl) or - even better - fixing an air-guide onto the back of the bumper vent to direct the air flow away from the wiring. I also intend replacing the shannon duct with a more suitable piping (such as aluminium ducting).

Stage 3: Well. This will be interesting. Stage three involves the ambitious task of using the drivers-side vent as a second air intake. Using more aluminiumm ducting to channel the air towards the airbox and converge the two into one just before the airbox. This obviously will require more work and possible the purchase and use of axle stands so I can get the undertray off for a propper look and play.

Watch this space....

chris75 · 1st January 2007, 20:01

There is a preventitive maintenance element to this as well . One of our European members drove through deep water and sucked in a bucketfull through the old damaged woven pipe . You may recall he wrecked his engine , but i can't locate the thread . Perhaps it was on the old site ............

Simon · 1st January 2007, 20:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris75

There is a preventitive maintenance element to this as well . One of our European members drove through deep water and sucked in a bucketfull through the old damaged woven pipe . You may recall he wrecked his engine , but i can't locate the thread . Perhaps it was on the old site ............

Yeah - I remember that too. He drove through a flood after seeing someone else succesfully drive through it.

Water entering the engine results in very big badness. From what I recall it completely trashed everything from bending the crank arms to destroying the inlet manifold. Not good at all

Kandyman is in a similar position in that his shannon duct is damaged - his is the car in the picture above - To that extent he is looking to replace it. We have suggested (to him and others) that as an alternate to the shannon duct you can use drainpipe - it is the same diameter.

Using drainpipe as a direct replacement without altering the positioning would be the best solution for waterproofness but it would not aid engine breathing.

The modification I have done improves engine breathing but at the expense of weatherproofing. I cannot (really cannot under any circumstances) drive through a flooded road where the water level is more than a couple of inches - and even then I have to drive at less than 5mph to prevent splashing and spray. I don't even like driving in the rain

Hope this helps you! :lol:

Kandyman · 2nd January 2007, 14:06

Yes it's my car in the picture

She is still in the same state as i have not got round to working on it yet, But now the new year is here i will be doing bits and pieces to her again.

I will make a post with pictures when i get round to doing the work

Simon · 2nd January 2007, 19:18

Looking forward to your write-up of how you get on Kandyman. It'll be particularly interesting how easy/difficult you find to get the new shannon duct in place. Are you planning on going the easy route with the front bumper off technique or are you going down the bendy-arm approach?

mantianak · 2nd January 2007, 21:07

I'm not much of a handy man so I'd be impressed if somebody can use this design and make a cyclonic separation system at the duct opening (wherever it may go)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclonic_separation

Simon · 2nd January 2007, 21:17

That's very apt you should be writing that as I too had the idea of creating such a system

The main thing a cyclonic system would have to do in a cold-air intake is remove water particles from the airflow. I already have a high-performance filter installed in the OEM airbox which on it's own increases engine breathing quite a bit. This filter does the job of removing dust and dirt from the airstream but it cannot remove exessive water vapour from the airflow (the vapour is too small to be trapped by the filter). I don't think a cyclonic system would have sufficient capabilities to remove water vapour.

I'll do a quick bit of research and see if it is possible to use cyclonic filtration to remove water vapour...

1st January 2007, 19:03	#14
Simon Banned - Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: - Posts: 10,318 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	New feature added to the modification Having got xmas over and done with! it's now time I set about continuing with the air intake modification. For those of you who haven't read the previous posts now would be a good time to do so so you can get an idea for what I've already done. The next stage I completed today. In order to help stop water-ingress into the airbox I've now used a cut-down length of shannon duct that points just to the side of the open vent in the bumper. This will hopefully be an improvement over the previous set up. Whilst having my head wedged under the car (not a great position to be in...) I did notice that the wiring in the bumper area (although protected) was also getting wet. I intend to water proof the wiring, perhaps with liquid wax (such as waxoyl) or - even better - fixing an air-guide onto the back of the bumper vent to direct the air flow away from the wiring. I also intend replacing the shannon duct with a more suitable piping (such as aluminium ducting). Stage 3: Well. This will be interesting. Stage three involves the ambitious task of using the drivers-side vent as a second air intake. Using more aluminiumm ducting to channel the air towards the airbox and converge the two into one just before the airbox. This obviously will require more work and possible the purchase and use of axle stands so I can get the undertray off for a propper look and play. Watch this space....

2nd January 2007, 21:07	#19
mantianak I really should get out more....... ZT 190+ Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Poole Posts: 2,413 Thanks: 6 Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts	I'm not much of a handy man so I'd be impressed if somebody can use this design and make a cyclonic separation system at the duct opening (wherever it may go) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclonic_separation __________________ http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1..._signature.png

7th December 2006, 23:14	#11
Simon Banned - Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: - Posts: 10,318 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	Just to clarify, here is the above picture with added red boxes The first box (lower left) highlights the shannon tube where it enteres the bottom of the filter box. This is the lowest point of the air feed system. The second box (upper right) higlights where the shannon tube ends. This is the highest point in the system and is designed to stop the engine sucking in water/spray/debris.

7th December 2006, 23:23	#12
GreyGhost Banned 180+ Sport Auto Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bedford Middle Level Posts: 17,787 Thanks: 0 Thanked 18 Times in 5 Posts	Ah yes now I have the full picture, some plastics could readily be made up to fit and would be generally self supporting. I presume Kandys is original and so is actually not in bad shape.

7th December 2006, 23:59	#13
Simon Banned - Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: - Posts: 10,318 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	Kandyman originally wrote a thread saying that he wanted to replace this shannon tube because his had worn where the wires had rubbed on it. When I removed mine it also had signs of wear on. I don't think the wear is detrimental to the engine or air intake performance but obviously if the shannon tube started to dissintergrate too much then pieces of the tube could potentially be sucked into the filter causing it to become blocked much more quickly than usual. As we've said, a bit of drainpipe and 5min later and you can construct a simple and effective subsititute that would certainly be up to the task.

1st January 2007, 20:01	#15
chris75 same car since 2005 2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire Posts: 3,811 Thanks: 379 Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts	There is a preventitive maintenance element to this as well . One of our European members drove through deep water and sucked in a bucketfull through the old damaged woven pipe . You may recall he wrecked his engine , but i can't locate the thread . Perhaps it was on the old site ............

2nd January 2007, 14:06	#17
Kandyman Banned ROVER 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Limousine 2004 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Welling Posts: 10,995 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Yes it's my car in the picture She is still in the same state as i have not got round to working on it yet, But now the new year is here i will be doing bits and pieces to her again. I will make a post with pictures when i get round to doing the work

2nd January 2007, 19:18	#18
Simon Banned - Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: - Posts: 10,318 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	Looking forward to your write-up of how you get on Kandyman. It'll be particularly interesting how easy/difficult you find to get the new shannon duct in place. Are you planning on going the easy route with the front bumper off technique or are you going down the bendy-arm approach?

2nd January 2007, 21:17	#20
Simon Banned - Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: - Posts: 10,318 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	That's very apt you should be writing that as I too had the idea of creating such a system The main thing a cyclonic system would have to do in a cold-air intake is remove water particles from the airflow. I already have a high-performance filter installed in the OEM airbox which on it's own increases engine breathing quite a bit. This filter does the job of removing dust and dirt from the airstream but it cannot remove exessive water vapour from the airflow (the vapour is too small to be trapped by the filter). I don't think a cyclonic system would have sufficient capabilities to remove water vapour. I'll do a quick bit of research and see if it is possible to use cyclonic filtration to remove water vapour...