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Old 15th October 2017, 17:36   #1
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Default Flushing heater block how to?

Just installed a DMGRS inline thermostat to see if I could get a bit more heat coming from my Connies blowers. It's a bit better but still blowing cold on passengers side.Anyone have a link to a how to with pics or a video on flushing the heater block? Also is there a flush kit I can use to help avoid air leaks etc?

As ever, thanks for any advice I can get.
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Old 16th October 2017, 07:09   #2
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The best solution is to completely remove the heater matrix and flush it out while off the car. The design of the matrix means simply flushing in situ doesn't clear the blockages.

Not a massively complicated job, although I found getting the pipe 'clips' to seat back correctly a struggle and ended up replacing one with a length of rubber hose and two jubilee clips.

I did it a couple of weeks ago and I now have a fully functional heater.

If you look in the 'How To' section there is a guide with photos of the job.
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Old 16th October 2017, 07:29   #3
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HowTo Section link: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ead.php?t=7515

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Old 16th October 2017, 10:28   #4
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I would caution against moving the heater matrix, as it can be difficult to fit and seal it again.
the easiest method by far, is to find the two hoses that connect the heater with the cooling system. Then open at the closest joint, and flush through these pipes. Water against the flow direction will have a great effect, and if you have a bit of compressed air, a short sharp burst into the water filled pipes will loosen a lot of the sediment.
I have used it to great effect, and if you want to see what comes out, let the water accumulate in a white bucket.

If that does not help, I would be very surprised!
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Old 16th October 2017, 12:57   #5
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We used to have a truck that needed flushing but it was an absolute nightmare to get at. I eventually decided to remove the heater matrix supply pipes at the engine end, blew through one pipe to clear the coolant, then added radflush via a funnel. By clamping a syringe on the other open pipe, I could move the radflush backwards and forwards through the matrix by moving the syringe handle in and out. I then left the radflush in for a while, to do its work, repeated the syringe in and out operation several times before flushing through with a hose pipe. Take great care with the flushing as the agent is CAUSTIC, so wear eye protection and flush thoroughly with cold water. Also, check that the matrix is not aluminium as ally + caustic can = explosive disaster!!!!! I did this years ago on a copper matrix, so it may not be suitable for our cars.
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Old 16th October 2017, 20:17   #6
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Thanks all, great advice there. Given my luck getting tricky things back in place I think I'll go for the easier option first. I'll check the how to section for pictures of this technique. I can 100% see why taking the matrix out would be the more thorough approach though and if flushing doesn't work I'll give this a go next.
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Old 15th December 2018, 10:09   #7
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This may help:-
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ead.php?t=7515
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Old 15th December 2018, 13:09   #8
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Quote:
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Oooops.---You are a year too late.----
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Old 15th December 2018, 16:09   #9
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Oooops.---You are a year too late.----
Senior moment! Happy New Year!
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