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Old 13th December 2018, 13:15   #51
ricebridge
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Originally Posted by Randyjim View Post
My last OEM water pump lasted just 500 miles (800km). Coolant was pouring out from the area around the crank pulley. I believe there has been an issue with a change in suppliers to Xpart. Do you know what the brand on the pump was? More than one type are being supplied in X-part boxes, at least they were 12-18 months ago.
Yes, that's certainly a main suspect. I have no idea what they put in there. Have been in touch with the garage but they couldn't help me as long as I didn't have the name of the owner at the time.
And this was indeed about a year ago or so, so that could definitely be a possibility.
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Old 13th December 2018, 13:17   #52
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I thought this might be worth a mention, see this thread https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=272412 about water pump bolts.
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Old 13th December 2018, 14:26   #53
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Sorry. Left side of the CAR. When seen from the driver's position.
Well the leak can't be from the water pump then. It's on the right hand side of the car! It could be from the bleed screw though, as you've said.

Are you thinking that the antifreeze residue on the fuse box cover is the result of coolant venting from the expansion tank cap? When this happens, have you raised the bonnet and looked to see if the cap is wet on the outside?

I am concerned about the 130 degree temperature reached earlier. I'm wondering whether you have head gasket damage as a result of this.

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Old 13th December 2018, 22:10   #54
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Well the leak can't be from the water pump then. It's on the right hand side of the car! It could be from the bleed screw though, as you've said.
Well, that’s good... I think. But the question is where else then.

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Are you thinking that the antifreeze residue on the fuse box cover is the result of coolant venting from the expansion tank cap? When this happens, have you raised the bonnet and looked to see if the cap is wet on the outside?
It’s clearly coming from the general direction of the cap. Could be cap, adjacent hoses, or expansion tank itself. Or possibly radiator.

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I am concerned about the 130 degree temperature reached earlier. I'm wondering whether you have head gasket damage as a result of this.

Simon
Possible. But there are no other indications consistent with HGF. Certainly like to exclude all other possibilities first.
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Old 2nd July 2019, 11:14   #55
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.... Item 14 here. I would treat yourself to Rimmer's stainless steel version to replace the non-standard plumbing you have at the moment. ..... Simon
Re item 14, presumably PCP102532 is the ordinary pipe and PCP102532SS is the stainless steel version. Neither of those pics look like stainless steel to me (unlike item 19 which does).
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Old 2nd July 2019, 13:00   #56
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Re item 14, presumably PCP102532 is the ordinary pipe and PCP102532SS is the stainless steel version. Neither of those pics look like stainless steel to me (unlike item 19 which does).
Hi Simon,

I'd say that Rimmer's hasn't gone to the trouble of photographing the stainless steel version of PCP 102532 and simply used the picture they already had of the mild steel version. After all, it is the pipe layout which is important since there were two types.

PFV 000090 applies from VIN 235721 when the oil cooler connections were changed to between the heater return and thermostat housing.

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Old 2nd July 2019, 19:47   #57
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Neither of those pics look like stainless steel to me

Scroll down the PCP102532SS page and read 'Product Description'.


TC
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Old 3rd July 2019, 09:23   #58
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Scroll down the PCP102532SS page and read 'Product Description'.


TC
Doh, I didn't read that far down the page.
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Old 5th July 2019, 13:54   #59
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... Your thermostat might not be opening fully, or indeed be stuck partially open, but these are just guesses. Does the temperature gauge reach 'normal' in the usual rapid period of time? Does the heater work normally?

Simon
How long should it take the IPK temp gauge to reach 'normal' Simon? (and what is the actual temperature at that point?)

My KV6 fan comes in between 100C and 101C (according to the e-Zee digital temp gauge) - I don't know what the correct operating temps are for the thermostat and fan.
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Old 5th July 2019, 15:49   #60
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How long should it take the IPK temp gauge to reach 'normal' Simon? (and what is the actual temperature at that point?)
The actual temperature is anywhere between 75 and 115 degrees C. I estimate that my gauge reaches this point after about two minutes of urban driving, but I have never timed it.
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My KV6 fan comes in between 100C and 101C (according to the e-Zee digital temp gauge)
That's fine, your fan is working perfectly!
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I don't know what the correct operating temps are for the thermostat and fan.
The thermostat begins opening at 88 +/- 2 degrees C and reaches what MG Rover calls "minimum opening" around 96 degrees. This should give you a running temperature in the low to mid nineties provided that the car is moving.

Regarding the fan, could you remind me if you have a 2 or 3 speed system?

Simon
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