What I did with my Rover 75/MG ZT today? - Page 882

trikey · 7th December 2018, 09:14

I replaced this yesterday!

I reckon it needed doing....

bl52krz · 7th December 2018, 10:32

A bit of Gorilla Glue would have done the trick.Its only broken in a couple of places.

smudge.g · 7th December 2018, 11:25

Having fitted the replacement rear sub-frame, new springs and shocks i am stumped now, trying to remove 2 upper links from the hubs. I have removed the innerds of one but simply cant shift the outer case part. have tried hammering, coating in wd40, heating (but not sure how much to use), and pulling with a couple of sockets and a long bolt but nothing shifts it. How hard can i bash this without damaging anything else?? This issue is only one keeping the car off the road and next step is a mobile mechanic! (btw the hubs are still on the car as I dont really want to remove them)

trikey · 7th December 2018, 14:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by smudge.g

Having fitted the replacement rear sub-frame, new springs and shocks i am stumped now, trying to remove 2 upper links from the hubs. I have removed the innerds of one but simply cant shift the outer case part. have tried hammering, coating in wd40, heating (but not sure how much to use), and pulling with a couple of sockets and a long bolt but nothing shifts it. How hard can i bash this without damaging anything else?? This issue is only one keeping the car off the road and next step is a mobile mechanic! (btw the hubs are still on the car as I dont really want to remove them)

You need a good solid drift, brass or aluminium. Failing that a socket of the correct diameter, they can take a lot of shifting though.

marinabrian · 7th December 2018, 14:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by smudge.g

Having fitted the replacement rear sub-frame, new springs and shocks i am stumped now, trying to remove 2 upper links from the hubs. I have removed the innerds of one but simply cant shift the outer case part. have tried hammering, coating in wd40, heating (but not sure how much to use), and pulling with a couple of sockets and a long bolt but nothing shifts it. How hard can i bash this without damaging anything else?? This issue is only one keeping the car off the road and next step is a mobile mechanic! (btw the hubs are still on the car as I dont really want to remove them)

One of THESE

Anyway what you need to do is remove the brake backplates, then belt the remnant of the inside of the other rose joint out of the housing.

Clean the cast iron lug up with a rotary cup brush, then after greasing the bolt, put a bit of a nip onto the bolt through the extractor, then give the end of the bolt a bop with your favourite knocking stick.

Once it's moving it can be wound out with the extractor, and when fitting the new bushes, make sure the radiused end enters first, and you've cleaned the inside of the loop with emery and a smear of LM grease.

Brian

gadget1960 · 7th December 2018, 19:42

Put 46 miles on it with a jolly to Canterbury and back, but tomorrow will consist of Washing, leathering, vacuuming, detailing and then filling with fuel, as I have it on good authority it's going to be half sun with a bit of cloud but NO rain ! so ... polishing a plenty.
Might post some pics up if I can figure out how to do it. lol.

trikey · 8th December 2018, 19:17

Found the cause of the non starting 1.8t, I would urge all 1.8 turbo owners to check their crank sensor wiring, it runs very close to the turbo!!

Rogue · 8th December 2018, 19:57

Glad you got it sorted bud

trikey · 8th December 2018, 20:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue

Glad you got it sorted bud

Not yet Pete, im awaiting a certain Geordie to wave his wand as the touching wires managed to fry the ECU.

(Brian did say this can happen on the 1.8t)

marinabrian · 8th December 2018, 20:33

Not a great deal really, took the front wheel off, inspected the crank pulley and resigned myself to the reality that the DMF is fubared.

What I should have done is scrapped this car last month, rather than pour money into it, and more importantly.....time

Well at least there are not going to be any seized bolts to contend with

On a happier note, I cobbled a set of front to rear brake pipes onto a local members tourer, and surprisingly the new pipes fit into the clips.

And after decraminating the rear discs, and caliper carriers, and fitting the new rear calipers, bleeding took a mere 1/4 litre of fluid.

Time for a new hobby

Brian

7th December 2018, 09:14	#8811
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,760 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	I replaced this yesterday! I reckon it needed doing.... __________________ Lest we forget..

7th December 2018, 10:32	#8812
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,386 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	A bit of Gorilla Glue would have done the trick.Its only broken in a couple of places. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

7th December 2018, 11:25	#8813
smudge.g Gets stuck in 75 Tourer CDTi Connie SE Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Keith, Banffshire Posts: 686 Thanks: 431 Thanked 132 Times in 105 Posts	Having fitted the replacement rear sub-frame, new springs and shocks i am stumped now, trying to remove 2 upper links from the hubs. I have removed the innerds of one but simply cant shift the outer case part. have tried hammering, coating in wd40, heating (but not sure how much to use), and pulling with a couple of sockets and a long bolt but nothing shifts it. How hard can i bash this without damaging anything else?? This issue is only one keeping the car off the road and next step is a mobile mechanic! (btw the hubs are still on the car as I dont really want to remove them) __________________ My 75 Tourer CDTi was born Saturday, 21st June 2003 @ 09:50 My 75 was the 18,749th 75 Tourer to run off the production line, out of 27,407 It was the 195th 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 2,074 and the 1,789th 75 Tourer in Wedgewood Blue Metallic (code: JEL) to be made out of 1,871 Wedgewood Blue Metallic 75 Tourers Last edited by smudge.g; 7th December 2018 at 12:40..

8th December 2018, 19:17	#8817
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,760 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	Found the cause of the non starting 1.8t, I would urge all 1.8 turbo owners to check their crank sensor wiring, it runs very close to the turbo!! __________________ Lest we forget..

8th December 2018, 19:57	#8818
Rogue I really should get out more....... 75 CDT SE 160 Saloon Join Date: May 2017 Location: Thorpe St Andrew, Norwich Posts: 2,643 Thanks: 1,386 Thanked 1,096 Times in 774 Posts	Glad you got it sorted bud __________________ Glutton for punishment --- Previously ... 2.6 SD1 x 2, 3.5 SD1, 820S, 820Si x2, 216 Gsi, 220T saloon, 414, 45 1.4 x2 and now a Cowley 75 CDT

7th December 2018, 19:42	#8816
gadget1960 Gets stuck in Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Maxton, Dover Posts: 519 Thanks: 183 Thanked 132 Times in 89 Posts	Put 46 miles on it with a jolly to Canterbury and back, but tomorrow will consist of Washing, leathering, vacuuming, detailing and then filling with fuel, as I have it on good authority it's going to be half sun with a bit of cloud but NO rain ! so ... polishing a plenty. Might post some pics up if I can figure out how to do it. lol.

8th December 2018, 20:33	#8820
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	Not a great deal really, took the front wheel off, inspected the crank pulley and resigned myself to the reality that the DMF is fubared. What I should have done is scrapped this car last month, rather than pour money into it, and more importantly.....time Well at least there are not going to be any seized bolts to contend with On a happier note, I cobbled a set of front to rear brake pipes onto a local members tourer, and surprisingly the new pipes fit into the clips. And after decraminating the rear discs, and caliper carriers, and fitting the new rear calipers, bleeding took a mere 1/4 litre of fluid. Time for a new hobby Brian

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