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Old 22nd June 2016, 23:08   #41
DMGRS
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I usually do it the old fashioned (if that's what you'd call it!) way, however this time for speed I used a sucker-type device.

I agree with Arctic, doing it from underneath is a good chance to check everything out. Catching a splitting gaiter before the grease is lost can save a CV joint, seeing your rear lower mount is splitting can save your exhaust flexi section etc etc.
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Old 27th June 2016, 10:34   #42
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Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT View Post
Yes, any depth will work absolutely fine and a few larger sizes will also fit too, providing it is not too tight. Mine is a 38mm.
I prefer to use the shallow socket it fits better, and is less likely to slip should the cap have been tightened up by a Gorilla which I have known in the past, the same applies to the size only use 36mm less likely to slip and round off the cap as it is made of plastic.
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Last edited by Arctic; 3rd September 2017 at 10:28.. Reason: photo editing
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Old 3rd September 2017, 07:54   #43
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Re the oil filter cartridge 25.5Nm torque setting stated, does everyone use a torque wrench (in calibration of course!)?

Or are there other methods of gauging how far it needs to be tightened?

As the o-ring seals on the side, i presume that provides the majority of the seal regardless of how far the lid is turned down?

Please advise if i'm missing something!
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Old 3rd September 2017, 08:36   #44
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Originally Posted by c-j2 View Post
Re the oil filter cartridge 25.5Nm torque setting stated, does everyone use a torque wrench (in calibration of course!)?

Or are there other methods of gauging how far it needs to be tightened?

As the o-ring seals on the side, i presume that provides the majority of the seal regardless of how far the lid is turned down?

Please advise if i'm missing something!
Thanks
Chris
I always use a torque wrench set to the correct torque as the cap is plastic. Over tightening will give you problems next time you need to change the filter
Torque settings are given for a reason
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Old 3rd September 2017, 09:01   #45
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Having read thru this post again I have noticed that it says you DO NOT place the large oil seal in the top groove,So assume you use the second groove correct?

Can some one tell me why you use the second groove instead of the top groove please.
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Old 3rd September 2017, 09:48   #46
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Originally Posted by mininuts View Post
I always use a torque wrench set to the correct torque as the cap is plastic. Over tightening will give you problems next time you need to change the filter
Torque settings are given for a reason
I have a torque wrench, have changed the filter a number of times over the years, but no I never bother to use the torque wrench for this. I do it by feel, keeping in mind this is plastic and seals against an O ring. It needs to be tight, but not massively tight.
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Old 3rd September 2017, 10:18   #47
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Having read thru this post again I have noticed that it says you DO NOT place the large oil seal in the top groove,So assume you use the second groove correct?

Can some one tell me why you use the second groove instead of the top groove please.
In the top groove it will slide up to the top as you screw it down then squash in the corner when it tightens up, a few hundred miles later with a hot engine the o ring will blow out through the side through an impossibly small gap, and the result will be oil all over the front of the engine.

Dont ask me how I know that.
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Old 3rd September 2017, 10:26   #48
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Hi David.
Beat me to it, the O-ring is used in the second groove so it seals inside the pot on the ledge of the thread, like said above if you used the top groove you would not be able to tighten the cap properly and it will not make a complete seal.

Rule of thumb if no torque is available, tighten down slowly then a little nip, if you over tighten it will squash the filter.
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Old 3rd September 2017, 11:58   #49
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Hi David.
Beat me to it, the O-ring is used in the second groove so it seals inside the pot on the ledge of the thread, like said above if you used the top groove you would not be able to tighten the cap properly and it will not make a complete seal.

Rule of thumb if no torque is available, tighten down slowly then a little nip, if you over tighten it will squash the filter.
Best go and swap it around then,However since I have had the car (11 years) I have always used the top groove as this is where the seal was when I did my first ever oil change on it (Previously serviced at a main dealer").So I assume they did not put in the correct place when serviced by them.

Well 11 years later and 120,000 miles it has never been a prolem but will swap it "Just in case"
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Old 3rd September 2017, 13:51   #50
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Best go and swap it around then,However since I have had the car (11 years) I have always used the top groove as this is where the seal was when I did my first ever oil change on it (Previously serviced at a main dealer").So I assume they did not put in the correct place when serviced by them.

Quote:
Well 11 years later and 120,000 miles it has never been a prolem but will swap it "Just in case"
HI John.
If you look closely you will there is a section in the thread of the filter cap for an hook screwdriver to help remove the O-ring pictures below cheers Arctic
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