K-engine project - A possible low cost rebuild?

[beinet1]

Hi all,

For a few days ago, I got hold of two 1.8 Freelander engines which was sold "as scrap". The engines was bought more or less for fun to see if there are any useable "spares" to take from them or if it is possible to do a "low cost" engine rebuild based on the parts available from the two + neccesary new wear parts and gaskets. The rebuilt engine does not need to be "as new" when rebuilt, but in a condition where it will be able do thousands of more trouble free miles.
The first thing to do, is to partly strip the engines and check the status of the parts.

[beinet1]

I started of yesterday to inspect these engines. The first impression is not to good, but for what I have seen so far, its not that bad. I also got a lot of other parts together with these engines, so it seems that the guy had more than these two engines to take bits from. Some extra con rods, pistons, liners and a cylinder head was in the bin I took with me.

Engine #1
This one was picked up without a cylinder head and one liner was missing. Liner 1 and 4 was rusted because the engine has been stored outside, turned upside down.


The gasket face has marks that indicate that the HG`s compression limiter has loosened from the gasket shim and worked its way out. Take a look at the bottom left corner in the picture above.
The sump was removed. Brown oil, probably due to mixing with coolant was found in the sump. OEM oil rail installed.


A liner from the “leftover bin” was installed in the block to replace the missing one, liner retainers was installed and the sump was put back on.

Liner protrusion was measured with a straight edge and feeler gauges. My 0.0015” blade slipped under the straight edge some places. By using my fingers, I could feel that the liners protruded slightly above the block deck. Based on the measurements done, and the visual inspection, the liner protrusion is approx. 0.001”.

The crank seems to turn easily, the way it should. The depth of the pistons from the block deck was measured and 1 and 4 was compared to each other. The same was done with 2 and 3. The values was equal, so this indicates that the conrods are not bent.
Liner 1 and 4 was rusted, so these are scrap. Liner 2 has still visible hone marks and no vertical wear marks. This one might be re-useable after a light hone. Liner 3 (from the “leftover bin”) had visible hone marks, but vertical wear marks.
Liner 2:

Conclusion Block #1:
Block #1 has a liner protrusion within OEM spec, which is a good sign. This engine has probably suffered one or more HGF`s in its lifetime. The waterpump feel pretty “new”, so this has probably been replaced at the last HGF repair. The block deck was also checked with a straightedge and found OK. If new pistons, liners, bearing shells and probably an uprated oil rail is fitted, this block might be re useable. More dismantling and inspection will be needed if so. This one will be put aside at this stage J
Engine 2:
Not much was done to this one last night, but it was put up in the engine stand and the oil was drained. The oil was brown, probably due to mix with coolant. The engine was turned, but not much compression felt. It seems like someone has tried to put silicone or similar in the head/block joint. The head height was measured to 118,7mm, which indicates that the cylinder head has been skimmed once or twice. The observations so far is that this engine has probably been repaired for HGF once or twice and scrapped/put aside due to HGF. I will start to put this engine to pieces soon J

[beinet1]

Engine #2 – Continued…
I was a kind of surprised over the findings seen when stripping down the engine #2. Seems that the “father of the bodgers” have been at work on this engine…..

Rocker cover and cambelt cover was removed. No need to say that oil and coolant have mixed here. First observation is that the cylinder head fitted, is a manual tensioner head, but have been tap and drilled to accept an auto tensioner. It does not look to good, but is an acceptable solution that in my eyes will work 100%.



I continued to remove the cylinder head. The first observation was that the HG was full of sealant of some kind. Next, I found 2 head gaskets there bonded together with RTV sealant!!! I can`t believe it!! Does anyone think that this will work???
Allready pretty surprised, I also found that 1.4 pistons and liners was fitted to this block with a 1.8 crankshaft and con rods!! What on earth have been working on this one…
This may explain why there was 1.8 pistons and liners in the “leftover bin”
Liner protrusion was roughly measured with my feelers to approx. 0.002”



Still shocked over the findings, I continued to inspect the cylinder head looking for indentations from the fire rings. I could not feel any indentations with my fingers. I was also looking for indentations by using a straight edge over the fire ring area and light up the backside of the straightedge with a torch, but could not see any light under the straight edge. This is a good sign.
Several dents from rough handling were found in the cylinder head, and it also seems like the bodger has tried to smooth these out with abrasive paper or something. The head needs to be skimmed off a greater amount of material to cope with these dents.


At the end, the sump was removed. As expected, I found brown oil and an OEM oil ladder.


Conclusion engine #2:
A lot of surprises was found here… I have no idea why and what this engine has been through. Regarding liner protrusion and no indentations from the fire ring area, the block and cylinder head might be useable if the cylinder head can be skimmed. The con rods has clearly had a “piston swap”, and the bodger may for all I know have annealed them with excessive use of heat. I think the pistons, liners, con rods and maybe the cylinder head should have their next life in the trash bin…
If I want to do anything about these engines, it seems that the most reasonable solution would be to find a good used cylinder head, rebuild this and fit this one to block #1 together with new pistons, liners and bearing shells.
I guess these engines will be put aside for now J

[carguy143]

Thanks for sharing. I wish i had the space to do what you're doing.

Rik.

[Simon.h]

Great pictures etc! And keep them coming, its great to read threads like this.

[jonno12]

Really enjoyable thread

[MG Tom]

I'd try a little more lapping, but to be honest that's already a very wide reveal. In reality it will probably be ok, but it really needs a new valve and recut the seats to be honest.

[beinet1]

Originally Posted by MG Tom

I'd try a little more lapping, but to be honest that's already a very wide reveal. In reality it will probably be ok, but it really needs a new valve and recut the seats to be honest.

Thanks for the reply

Offcourse, new valves + valve seat recut would be the best option. I think I will try some more lapping and test the valves by the "WD40" method. If its tight, It should be OK if there are some minor pittings anyway I think.

[tourer]

Originally Posted by beinet1

Thanks for the reply

Offcourse, new valves + valve seat recut would be the best option. I think I will try some more lapping and test the valves by the "WD40" method. If its tight, It should be OK if there are some minor pittings anyway I think.

WD40 method????
Please enlighten me.

[MG Tom]

I've filled the ports with petrol before, the level should not drop.