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Old 22nd October 2019, 09:04   #11
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
On a severely corroded nut I think you need to use Vise Grips/Mole wrench and lots of penetrating fluid. The fitting will be scrap afterwards however.

Simon
You might be right Simon (I hope not though).

I've had Plusgas soaking in all night and the flare spanner(s) won't arrive 'til late this afternoon. Before then I'll try cleaning up the nut hexagons with a Dremel, then give them plenty more Plusgas. The nuts themselves aren't that corroded - it's the mating surface between them and the bracket that's making them stick. Maybe a carefully aimed sharp tap in exactly the right place will help crack it.
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Old 22nd October 2019, 09:08   #12
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Simon is missing the point here



This is a flare nut spanner, designed especially to tackle the sort of job you are trying to do

Attempting to remove a brake pipe union, especially one which will have been assembled dry by whoever fitted the new front to rear pipework with an open ended spanner is asking for trouble, as you've already found out

You can create your own spanner, by chopping a 3/16" clearance slot into the broach of an 11mm ring spanner with an angle grinder if you wish, however these are cheaply and readily available at most places, even Halfords if you are desperate enough

For example........LINK

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I've bought a set Brian. Not top quality but they've got pretty good reviews - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 22nd October 2019, 09:16   #13
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PS. Brian - the copper pipes were fitted in 2013. I don't know if they were assembled dry because I wasn't there to see it.

When you say assembled dry, do you mean the parts should have been lubricated somehow (and the mounting bracket)?
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Old 29th October 2019, 16:36   #14
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Default Hose grommet?

I've got these unions apart using a Sealey VS0348 brake spanner (link). I bought two other 11mm brake spanners - the set mentioned earlier and a Draper 31967 - but neither of them fitted anywhere near as well as as the Sealey.

Anyway, back to the question. The original factory rear hoses have a sliding grommet which slots into a small bracket. The bracket screws onto the trailing arm.

This is the grommet.



And this is the bracket.



Replacement hoses do not have the grommet (link) and it's not shown as a separate item on the main page here - so it has to be transferred from the old hose to the new hose. The question is how. It's a very, very tight fit - I can slide it along the hose but I can't see any way of getting it over the metal fittings at either end. Has anyone ever managed to do it?

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Old 30th October 2019, 09:34   #15
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If you can't get it off cut through with a Stanley knife and super glue the ends once fitted to the new hose.
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Old 30th October 2019, 09:48   #16
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If you can't get it off cut through with a Stanley knife and super glue the ends once fitted to the new hose.
Simon.
Do as Mike suggested or once you have split the rubber collar and added it to the new hose, push the split part into the bracket recess first it should stay in place.
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Old 30th October 2019, 11:31   #17
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Thanks Mike & Steve - I'll split it as you suggest.

Btw, the new hoses have a protector spring on one half - the old hoses on my car don't.

The new hoses also have a metal piece half-way along - is this supposed to go inside the same rubber collar I've already got, or is there another, different collar that I haven't seen? (Without a collar, or some other device, the hose won't lock into the metal bracket shown in post 16 - it'll just flap about in the breeze).
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Old 30th October 2019, 14:00   #18
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Originally Posted by Blink View Post
Thanks Mike & Steve - I'll split it as you suggest.

Btw, the new hoses have a protector spring on one half - the old hoses on my car don't.

The new hoses also have a metal piece half-way along - is this supposed to go inside the same rubber collar I've already got, or is there another, different collar that I haven't seen? (Without a collar, or some other device, the hose won't lock into the metal bracket shown in post 16 - it'll just flap about in the breeze).
You can wrap some plastic sticky tape around the pipe. Just make it a tight fit when pushed into the bracket.--

The spring is to reinforce the pipe and stop it kinking.

Last edited by COLVERT; 30th October 2019 at 23:31..
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Old 30th October 2019, 21:18   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
Thanks Mike & Steve - I'll split it as you suggest.

Btw, the new hoses have a protector spring on one half - the old hoses on my car don't.

The new hoses also have a metal piece half-way along - is this supposed to go inside the same rubber collar I've already got, or is there another, different collar that I haven't seen? (Without a collar, or some other device, the hose won't lock into the metal bracket shown in post 16 - it'll just flap about in the breeze).
HI Simon.
It seems you have the brake hose that is held in by a spring, the metal part on the hose goes one side of the bracket and the other side is a spring which in turn pulls the joint tight.

I am trying to find a close up shot of said spring for you.
1


PS could not find a close up photo of the said two prong spring but below is a link to them
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291736834471

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-EJP78...caAgHiEALw_wcB

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001567
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Last edited by Arctic; 30th October 2019 at 23:33.. Reason: rectification
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Old 30th October 2019, 23:38   #20
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You can wrap some plastic sticky tape around the pipe. Just make it a tight fit when pushed into the bracket.--
I think it'll be a tight fit anyway - the new hoses seem to be exactly the same outside diameter as the old ones, which took quite a bit of prising to get them out of the trailing arm brackets. I'll try it tomorrow and see. It took me all afternoon just to clean up & paint the union brackets - pesky things.

This is looking a bit better.

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