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Old 6th October 2017, 23:37   #1
Mike Trident
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Default Front parking sensors?

Has anyone ever fitted front parking sensors?

any good?
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Old 7th October 2017, 06:11   #2
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I few years ago on a 75 but fitted a few recently on new cars. Fit a seperate switch so they are only on when you need them. Buy a decent set with tow bar mask option.
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Old 7th October 2017, 07:12   #3
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I've got a combined rear and front sensor kit but not fitted yet!
Keen to fit it, but running four fairly meaty cables from the front sensors to the control box in the boot looks a bit daunting / trim clip busting!
I think it's a kit by Cisco, and the front sensors go "live" for 30 seconds each time you touch the brakes.
Let us know how you get on if you fit any
Cheers
John
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Old 7th October 2017, 08:50   #4
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I've wondered the same thing. Good tip sworks I'd wondered about how to operate them.
How well will they sit on the outside of the bumper?

what is required? sensors, control box that's in the boot, a sounder. what else?

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Old 7th October 2017, 09:05   #5
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I have a set of front parking sensors, I have a switch on steering column.
Not very often I need them, but very useful when I do.
I had a choice of switch or automatic controlled from car computer wiring, those would switch on when speed was below 6MPH.
Forgot where I got them but it was online.
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Old 7th October 2017, 09:22   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terryf View Post
I have a set of front parking sensors, I have a switch on steering column.
Not very often I need them, but very useful when I do.
I had a choice of switch or automatic controlled from car computer wiring, those would switch on when speed was below 6MPH.
Forgot where I got them but it was online.
Terry
Not with a 75 since I can park by eye to within an inch, having had so many, but fitted them on a Civic hybrid to activate at 4(?) mph I think. Worked fine for a couple of years, but now come on randomly over bumps (that's well over 4mph, so probably just a faulty connection though). Get the best quality you can is my advice.

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Old 7th October 2017, 13:32   #7
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I figured with so many 75's having scuffed front bumper corners it might be a good idea. I am still looking for the best I can find for the corners.
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160 Remap, cruise control, electric window blind, temp gauge, Real walnut / ZT interior, FBH with GSM control.

BORN
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This vehicle was the 104,679th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
This vehicle was the 3,318th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 4,744
This vehicle was the 12,440th 75 in Starlight Silver (code: MBB) to be made out of 14,280 Starlight Silver 75s
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Old 7th October 2017, 14:55   #8
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Being height challenged () and coming from small cars - my last "big" car was a 240 Volvo 2 decades ago and you could pretty much see the corners - I bought a set which have 4 front & 4 rear sensors and a little distance sensor readout thingy.

They are still in the box .

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's even a hole cutter in the pack and as we know the rear bumper already has the markings to use. As for the fronts I think that any part of the bumper that isn't too curved should be OK. I'm nosing around a few cars that have them as standard to see where might be the best place to site them.

Yes I know I could have "proper" rear ones but these were only a few ££'s so I though worth a go.

I'm planning on putting the connections "box" in the boot (rather than inside the car) mainly because I wanted to try and keep the amount of sensor cable runs to the minimum and the ones from the rear bumper will feed straight in; along with the 12V supply from the revering lights (spliced in with 4 way soldered bullet connectors).

I've been thinking about the fronts and how to wire them in.

The "instructions" have the 12V supply from the brake lights but that doesn't help if you're, say, reversing and the front end swings dangerously close to something.

I'm thinking of an ignition switched 12V supply with possibly a simple on/off switch to kill the power.

There's the issue of removing the bumper(s) once fitted as they are a single (twin wire) cable from the sensor itself right through to the plug into the "box" itself.

I've just received these waterproof connectors

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tyco-AMP-E...72.m2749.l2649

I'm planning on carefully splitting the cable along its length with a very sharp knife and then putting one of the connectors onto each sensor. I did wonder about a "block" connector for all 8 wires but thought that one each was probably safer as it means you can extract a single sensor if needs be (obviously that would never actually happen......). A bit more time consuming but I reckon my simple brain will cope better and be less likely to mix up the wires.

All I've got to do now is run all the cables, drop the bumpers, drill the holes ...........

Not sure if this really answers the original question but hopefully adds something to the thread.

Andy
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Old 7th October 2017, 15:55   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyN01 View Post
Being height challenged () and coming from small cars - my last "big" car was a 240 Volvo 2 decades ago and you could pretty much see the corners - I bought a set which have 4 front & 4 rear sensors and a little distance sensor readout thingy.

They are still in the box .

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's even a hole cutter in the pack and as we know the rear bumper already has the markings to use. As for the fronts I think that any part of the bumper that isn't too curved should be OK. I'm nosing around a few cars that have them as standard to see where might be the best place to site them.

Yes I know I could have "proper" rear ones but these were only a few ££'s so I though worth a go.

I'm planning on putting the connections "box" in the boot (rather than inside the car) mainly because I wanted to try and keep the amount of sensor cable runs to the minimum and the ones from the rear bumper will feed straight in; along with the 12V supply from the revering lights (spliced in with 4 way soldered bullet connectors).

I've been thinking about the fronts and how to wire them in.

The "instructions" have the 12V supply from the brake lights but that doesn't help if you're, say, reversing and the front end swings dangerously close to something.

I'm thinking of an ignition switched 12V supply with possibly a simple on/off switch to kill the power.

There's the issue of removing the bumper(s) once fitted as they are a single (twin wire) cable from the sensor itself right through to the plug into the "box" itself.

I've just received these waterproof connectors

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tyco-AMP-E...72.m2749.l2649

I'm planning on carefully splitting the cable along its length with a very sharp knife and then putting one of the connectors onto each sensor. I did wonder about a "block" connector for all 8 wires but thought that one each was probably safer as it means you can extract a single sensor if needs be (obviously that would never actually happen......). A bit more time consuming but I reckon my simple brain will cope better and be less likely to mix up the wires.

All I've got to do now is run all the cables, drop the bumpers, drill the holes ...........

Not sure if this really answers the original question but hopefully adds something to the thread.

Andy
Something to have done while you're polishing headlights at the nano meet?

I had my rear ones wired in to the reversing light by Devilish at the July meet, they were £16 off eBay which I painted and then fitted myself, work really well and I'm very pleased with them.
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Old 7th October 2017, 18:36   #10
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All I've got to do now is run all the cables, drop the bumpers, drill the holes ...........
Andy[/QUOTE]


Andy
If you do fit them, let me know what route you use for the four front sensor cables.... that's the major concern for me! 😊
Good luck
John
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My 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto 75 is the
• 20,516th 75 to be made out of 112,381
• 787th 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,671
• 1,248th Wedgwood Blue Metallic (code: JBH) to be made out of 7,515 code JBH 75's
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