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20th April 2018, 22:29 | #31 |
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Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010
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One is cylindrical, one is square (ish) you don't need part numbers to identify
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Lest we forget..
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22nd April 2018, 15:30 | #32 |
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Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2016
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hello and thanks again to all,
I checked the wires, it was a little hard until I understood that I need a needle to put in inside the ecu connector. Everything is perfect, like Mike Noc told me. I cleaned again plenum drain holes and I ordered a new filter, mine was dirty... marinabrian, I looked inside the pedal... is over my powers to understand it )) I decide to call a friend to send me another used pedal, to be able to return it, without paying anything in case will not work... and after that to order new one from rimmerbross I hope everything will work ok because I m dead without my beauty... |
24th April 2018, 15:23 | #33 |
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Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2016
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I didn't success with old one... I ordered new item... Let's hope it will work now. One question I have, do I need to delete the error (check engine) or is enough to mount new part? I hope until Friday I will receive it
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24th April 2018, 15:32 | #34 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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Once the fault is cleared the check engine light should go out.
I have a Freelander with the same diesel engine (more or less) and when the check engine light came up for low LP fuel pressure the light stayed on even though the original fault was sorted. Cleared it with my diagnostic kit, but why it didn't sort itself out is a mystery. |
24th April 2018, 18:14 | #35 |
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Rover 75 CDTi Tourer Connoisseur SE Auto, Also fully restored Mk 2 1966 MG Midget Join Date: Apr 2007
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I have read through all the entries above,and nobody has given what I believe to be the reason for the throttle pedal not working. I had the same trouble about 6 to 8 years ago and ended up having to purchase a complete Auto brake pedal and throttle unit for just over £100.
James UK, a now departed member had the same trouble as me and he placed some entries about it on the Forum at that time. . Inside the "box" on the throttle pedal there are a series of concentric contact strips which make contact with a series of stiff wire brushes which on increasing the throttle opening gives a higher signal to the actual throttle on the engine, thus increasing the engine revs all the way through from idling the maximum revs- over 4K. I would term this a rotary potentiometer. With the wire brush being continually moved back and forth over the contact strips, - mine had done over 100K miles at the time, - the strip's contact become worn away, so the throttle has a break in the circuitry, giving only idling speed. I did place some photos with my entry of the time, but now don't have them easily to hand, and would probably be unable to up load them again now. All pre-used pedal arms are probably near to the end of their useful life, so purchasing MarinaBrian/s pedal arm will rectify the problem and all the warning lights on the instrument panel will disappear immediately, and you will have normal throttle response. again. |
24th April 2018, 20:59 | #36 |
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Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2016
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So I need only to wait until my new item arrive, and car must run normally after I will mount it.
Thx again for answers |
5th May 2018, 17:10 | #37 |
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Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2016
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I m happy
few minutes ago I mount my new item... everything is working perfect
thanks again for help guys. |
6th May 2018, 10:20 | #38 |
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Glad you've got the problem sorted phono, but things like this, and GeoffWW's helpful explanation of what happens, does make me yearn for the 'good' old days when the loss of the throttle meant that the cable had snapped. You knew that was the only possible explanation. A fiver and an hour's swearing, and the job was done. Now, it could be a multitude of possibilities, all expensive. Guess that's progress
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