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Old 4th May 2015, 09:13   #11
oldie
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Connoisseur SE v8 auto '54

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You're right. Prudence prior to action. Investigate the problem before cluttering the garage with more hastily bought paraphernalia. I take it that to expose the locking mechanism it is sufficient to remove the tailgate lower trim. Four screws and then pop the clips? Any hidden pitfalls?
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Old 5th May 2015, 09:15   #12
GeoffWW
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Rover 75 CDTi Tourer Connoisseur SE Auto, Also fully restored Mk 2 1966 MG Midget

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Hello again Oldie,

Just out of curiosity, I released the chrome number plate cover yesterday afternoon. The 4 screws are a six point star type but with the central "security" pin size "T-25H.
On each of the outer ends of the cover, there is a white plastic sprung "locator" with a small foam rubber sealing ring between the locator and the car body.
Having removed the screws, I gently rocked the chrome piece up and down to release is from the tailgate. Whilst very close to the metal, with a dirt line now showing from under where the cover had been you will see the white sprung clips emerging out of their holes in the tailgate. Also note the sealing ring between the white clip and it's hole in the tailgate Watch out for this dropping off the clip as you separate the cover from the mounting face.

The main plastic mount/seal between the chrome and the paintwork is held onto the back of the chrome bit by two very small screws. I did not go that far, but the clicking when pressing my rubber seal/pad was "still there". I have just been out to my car to get the tool size, and I was thinking of removing the unit again and separating the two, but it is now raining a fine drizzle.

From what I have already said in the earlier entries, there is no mechanical link between the lock release lever and the "wiper motor unit".

Once it stops raining, I will have another go at getting directly to the lever and hopefully a picture. (I have now found my method for uploading pictures and will give it a "dummy run").

Geoff
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg DSCF4828.jpg (125.9 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF4831.jpg (122.9 KB, 21 views)
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Old 5th May 2015, 11:11   #13
GeoffWW
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Hello again, Oldie,

Between the rain showers, I have managed to take the chrome cover off again and see what is between the plastic base and the chrome itself.

I undid the two small screws inboard of the end locating clips and then tried easing the base from the chrome. They would not easily separate so I just parted them in the middle to see the number plate lighting cabling. To give more access, I also removed the lock weather cover.

From what I could see through the weather cover hole, there is a rocking rectangular plastic plate which when pressed, presses up against a rectangular pressure switch that is wired into the electrical part of the locking system. This then sends an electrical signal through the wiring down to the main lock at the base of the tailgate. Please see the pictures.

The plastic plate has end lugs that locate into "guides" on the inner side of the weather cover. One of the 'lugs' of the guides had been half broken off during my removal and I have since hopefully repaired it with superglue.

So hear are 5 pictures. For the rocking plate, I have taken two, the second one upside down to get a better view into the mechanism. The fourth picture shows the locking plate, with the very small plunger inside. The final one shows the half- broken lug on the inner side of the weather cover.

Not wishing to go on further in removing the number plate lights and inner lock "switch", I have stopped at this point.

Have you tried all your connections. Maybe age is causing a bad electrical contact, resulting in your problems.

Best of luck anyway. Please let us know your final outcome and what was found to be the problem.

Geoff.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg DSCF4842.jpg (113.0 KB, 18 views)
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File Type: jpg DSCF4846.jpg (125.4 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF4851.jpg (131.5 KB, 18 views)

Last edited by GeoffWW; 5th May 2015 at 11:17..
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