ZT front springs, the garage can't compress them. Bit urgent. - Page 5

rrobson · 3rd July 2018, 12:12

if he was struggling that he could have quite easily re-fitted the leg on the car, put the car on the deck, undone the top nut and slowly raise the car up. the strut can be a little difficult to remove but if you undo the remove the hub as well that the strut removal could b done on the bench. if the strut comes out easy then happy days!

you've just got to want to do it sometimes...

Den · 3rd July 2018, 22:53

I think your engineer is not an engineer but "chancer", waiting to see how much he can screw you for. I changed both, busted, front springs on my drive with a standard compressor. Just my opinion (40 years in mech-eng).

T16 · 3rd July 2018, 22:54

agreed.

Sorry, but he's trolling to the max.

Even my mum could probably use a spring compressor from Lidl and work it out.

EdgarDonaldBalls · 12th July 2018, 11:05

I have finally got this sorted, had to take the car to a garage 20 miles away because finding one in chester that would fit parts supplied by me was seemingly impossible.

Dropped it off on monday and just picked it up this morning, feels like a new car, the steering is more precise and it's much less bouncy over bumps now.

Picked up a replacement wheel for the buckled one and am now going to go and get a couple of tyres fitted to the rear.

Still a few jobs to sort out, mostly the usual things like airbag fault, door locks, cruise control and squeaky clutch plus the nasty botched chinese led number plate light units that have been stuck in with silicon sealant, will probably leave these in for now, fit them a bit better and put a resistor in line to turn off the bulb warning.

After that, the next big job is to sort out the rear suspension, upper arms are looking very tired, springs and dampers look like the originals and are probably just as tired as the fronts were, if not more so as the shocks have been an advisory on the last couple of MOTs.

Hopefully, health will allow me to get it all done myself without having to pay a garage again, will probably depend on that captive nut on the rear subframe for the upper arm coming off without too much of a fight.

Madderz · 12th July 2018, 15:06

I'm glad you've managed to get it sorted, looks like it's been a bit of a struggle for you

KWIL · 12th July 2018, 15:37

It is a resistor in parallel to turn off bulb warning with LEDs.

3rd July 2018, 12:12	#41
rrobson I really should get out more....... 75 tourer cdti, MG ZS 180, nissan terrano & 1.8t rover 25 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Pontefract Posts: 2,647 Thanks: 17 Thanked 295 Times in 218 Posts	if he was struggling that he could have quite easily re-fitted the leg on the car, put the car on the deck, undone the top nut and slowly raise the car up. the strut can be a little difficult to remove but if you undo the remove the hub as well that the strut removal could b done on the bench. if the strut comes out easy then happy days! you've just got to want to do it sometimes... __________________ How to view a car - everything you need to help you inspect a used car VIS motor tester avalible to local members Injector removal tool and auto gearbox pressure tester now available

3rd July 2018, 22:53	#42
Den Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Slough Posts: 95 Thanks: 14 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts	I think your engineer is not an engineer but "chancer", waiting to see how much he can screw you for. I changed both, busted, front springs on my drive with a standard compressor. Just my opinion (40 years in mech-eng).

3rd July 2018, 22:54	#43
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	agreed. Sorry, but he's trolling to the max. Even my mum could probably use a spring compressor from Lidl and work it out.

12th July 2018, 11:05	#44
EdgarDonaldBalls Avid contributor MG ZT CDTi XPower Grey Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Chester Posts: 153 Thanks: 31 Thanked 37 Times in 30 Posts	I have finally got this sorted, had to take the car to a garage 20 miles away because finding one in chester that would fit parts supplied by me was seemingly impossible. Dropped it off on monday and just picked it up this morning, feels like a new car, the steering is more precise and it's much less bouncy over bumps now. Picked up a replacement wheel for the buckled one and am now going to go and get a couple of tyres fitted to the rear. Still a few jobs to sort out, mostly the usual things like airbag fault, door locks, cruise control and squeaky clutch plus the nasty botched chinese led number plate light units that have been stuck in with silicon sealant, will probably leave these in for now, fit them a bit better and put a resistor in line to turn off the bulb warning. After that, the next big job is to sort out the rear suspension, upper arms are looking very tired, springs and dampers look like the originals and are probably just as tired as the fronts were, if not more so as the shocks have been an advisory on the last couple of MOTs. Hopefully, health will allow me to get it all done myself without having to pay a garage again, will probably depend on that captive nut on the rear subframe for the upper arm coming off without too much of a fight.

12th July 2018, 15:06	#45
Madderz Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Barnsley Posts: 594 Thanks: 233 Thanked 132 Times in 121 Posts	I'm glad you've managed to get it sorted, looks like it's been a bit of a struggle for you

12th July 2018, 15:37	#46
KWIL Precise Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Fleet Posts: 2,958 Thanks: 630 Thanked 617 Times in 480 Posts	It is a resistor in parallel to turn off bulb warning with LEDs.