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Old 17th January 2012, 20:00   #21
COLVERT
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Originally Posted by davyg40 View Post
Hi im new here and have never posted but im havin the same problem mate. on one site it says the hidden bolt is a 13mm above left of the 15mm bellhousing bolt in between the manifold and battery. Undone that which then fell in somewhere and is now possibly sitting on the bellhousing, i cant find it and dont know what its purpose was. if its the 15mm one then im ******** if i can get in there to get it off. seriously getting wound up with it. cant move car and all i need is someone to say yep its that one. i can repair the plunger and refit if i only was positive its the right one.
As my dad says if its got **** tyres or tiles then its normally trouble
Have you got the starter motor off ??

To find lost bolts I use a telescopic rod with a strong magnet on the end.

If you have removed two bolts and the starter is still held tight then you have undone the wrong bolt.
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Old 16th January 2013, 01:43   #22
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Default Clarification on "clicking" please

Hello everyone, I have just joined here and this is my first post, although I have been trawling the forums pretty regularly since buying my 75 (which I love by the way, despite encountering many problems!). I look forward to becoming a more active member!

Anyhow, it appears my starter motor is also on the way out, and I got very excited when I saw the post about a cheap fix by replacing the contacts. I only just forked out for a new alternator 2 weeks ago

My symptoms match exactly what has been posted in this and other threads, however before I go ahead and buy a kit I wanted some clarification on the "clicking" noise people keep referring to.

Are we talking about the repeated fast clicking that is essentially the indicator noise sped up, whilst the dash flashes? (I have experienced this before when battery was too low to start - during my alternator problems)

The type of clicking I get is a single, very faint (when heard from inside the car) click coming from under the bonnet (I actually didn't hear it the first few times). This I assume is the sound of the starter motor engaging, but then failing to have enough torque to turn the engine over. I felt it was important to clarify this as if I have the "wrong kind" of clicking, I may be barking up the wrong tree by replacing the contacs!

I apologise if this post appearing in another thread elsewhere is frowned upon, but I figure there may be others reading these forums who would like to know the distinction of the clicking also, so it would be helpful over all (although if informed not to do so I will refrain in the future!).

Any help appreciated, thanks in advance!
Brandon
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Old 16th January 2013, 02:17   #23
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Originally Posted by New75Guy View Post
Hello everyone, I have just joined here and this is my first post, although I have been trawling the forums pretty regularly since buying my 75 (which I love by the way, despite encountering many problems!). I look forward to becoming a more active member!

Anyhow, it appears my starter motor is also on the way out, and I got very excited when I saw the post about a cheap fix by replacing the contacts. I only just forked out for a new alternator 2 weeks ago

My symptoms match exactly what has been posted in this and other threads, however before I go ahead and buy a kit I wanted some clarification on the "clicking" noise people keep referring to.

Are we talking about the repeated fast clicking that is essentially the indicator noise sped up, whilst the dash flashes? (I have experienced this before when battery was too low to start - during my alternator problems)

The type of clicking I get is a single, very faint (when heard from inside the car) click coming from under the bonnet (I actually didn't hear it the first few times). This I assume is the sound of the starter motor engaging, but then failing to have enough torque to turn the engine over. I felt it was important to clarify this as if I have the "wrong kind" of clicking, I may be barking up the wrong tree by replacing the contacs!

I apologise if this post appearing in another thread elsewhere is frowned upon, but I figure there may be others reading these forums who would like to know the distinction of the clicking also, so it would be helpful over all (although if informed not to do so I will refrain in the future!).

Any help appreciated, thanks in advance!
Brandon

Hi, the faint clicking does sound like solenoid fault, like you say the louder click coupled with flashing lights is the 'dead battery' fault
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Old 16th January 2013, 08:57   #24
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... I may be barking up the wrong tree by replacing the contacs!
No, as Trikey says, you're on the right track.

Simon
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Old 17th January 2013, 01:10   #25
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Default Any advice on removing the starter?

Thank you very much for your replies, you have given me some hope! I ordered the contact kit earlier today, along with a Haynes manual for good measure.

I was just wondering if anyone could give me some very rough guidance on exactly where the starter motor is located? I was under the bonnet earlier with a torch, but for the life of me could not see it (unlike the alternator which was readily apparent). I have read in other posts that it is close to the top of the engine, and is very easy to remove... but I'm guessing there are still at least a few bits I must remove first to get at it?

I like to think I am quite mechanically inclined, although unfortunately I have little experience working on cars. Living in a flat and not having a garage full of tools is a bit of a hindrance Is this something I should reasonably expect to be able to do myself, with guidance from the Haynes manual and possibly a few kind members on here? I don't mind buying any tools I need but don't have (although I have most of the basics).

Again, thanks for your help!
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Old 17th January 2013, 08:47   #26
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.. but I'm guessing there are still at least a few bits I must remove first to get at it?
Hi Brandon,

Yes, that's usually the case with car maintenance! If you turn to page 5A-6 in your Haynes manual you'll see the instructions for the diesel engine. Have a go at removing the engine cover as described in paragraphs 21 and 22. If you get on all right with that, you should be able to see the starter motor (I don't have a diesel so I'm relying on general experience here). If you feel confident to continue you should, for safety, disconnect the battery negative cable as recommended in paragraph 20. Before doing this, open the boot and wait for the red LED on your sat. nav. disc drive to extinguish.

If you need any specific help from the diesel boys, can I suggest that you start your own thread since the majority of posts in this one date back years!

Simon
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Old 16th April 2016, 14:22   #27
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Angry Starter Motor

Rover 75 Diesel car started perfect untill yesterday, car has new battery every thing works fine but won't turn over, no sound at all from starter motor just dead.
Any advice?:
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Old 16th April 2016, 14:57   #28
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Originally Posted by lochlan View Post
Rover 75 Diesel car started perfect untill yesterday, car has new battery every thing works fine but won't turn over, no sound at all from starter motor just dead.
Any advice?:
No worry,these motors are robust ; it's only a matter of contacts



Clean or better change them for a tenner

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/?_from=R40...All-Categories


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Old 3rd March 2019, 22:06   #29
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hi i replaced my battery last month cuz i had a clicking noise when starting, now after say 100miles started the car some weird noise came from under the hood but went away after 10 secs, drove 15miles left car off for 8 hours wanted to start, nothing, tried 4 times it started drove back home, shot engine off, started it and it started fine so i shut it off then again, it started but when i turned to key to off position the car engine would not stop it kept dying & starting up again on its own u could hear the starter motor engaging with a weird noise, did that 4 times before it finally shut itself off, , is it just the starter motor or could it be something electrical?
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Old 4th March 2019, 07:30   #30
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If the engine is running on when you shut it down then it could be due to a faulty high pressure fuel pressure regulator.

It is bolted to the end of the engine driven high pressure fuel pump.
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