Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 17th February 2019, 18:03   #11
RogerHeinz57
I really should get out more.......
 
RogerHeinz57's Avatar
 
A Reasonably Priced Car

Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Burton Latimer
Posts: 2,530
Thanks: 408
Thanked 1,064 Times in 712 Posts
Default

Some are a battle to free off, others just simply drop out with ease. May I suggest applying a jack under the ball joint and raising it slowly, this will relax the joint and the securing pinch bolt, apply some releasing agent and leave for a while. The other thing to also try is to steer the wheel to apply the pressure on the joint pin into a different zone of its position, followed by a few generous whacks with a decent hammer will see this yield eventually.
This problem is usually caused by repairers re-using the old pinch bolt and doing it up beyond its recommended torque. This has a number of effects,
1 the pinch bold shrinks at the shank that acts on the ball joint as the bolt stretches. This in-turn makes the joint clatter like hell no matter how tight you do the nut and bolt.
2 The hub where the ball joint enters the pinch zone has become deformed and too close together not allowing the joint to pass through it. (Once this has happened, it is unlikely to rescue any of the components affected by johnny big-boy's skillless operations.

If you still have problems, you will need to spread the jaws of the hub carrier to allow the joint to free away from the hub, but remember the likelyhood of it going back together properly and lasting any time is unlikely. Also the use of the proper nut and bolt is essential as it the correct torque setting which is far from tight tight in reality.

Hope this is of some help.
Good luck.
RogerHeinz57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th February 2019, 19:31   #12
pugcrew
Avid contributor
 
none

Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Seaford
Posts: 146
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris75 View Post
Have you tried springing the arms of the clamp apart by tapping a small cold chisel into the gap ? This can change the grip it has on the pinch bolt and also break the corrosion . It is also a useful trick when you come to pull the ball joint pin out
I did try it a bit but as I had read somewhere that this shouldn't be done I was probably too gentle and it may have had no affect. Now I'm in a different position (getting to the end of my tether!) I may be a bit bolder with this idea. Thanks for the suggestion.
pugcrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th February 2019, 19:37   #13
pugcrew
Avid contributor
 
none

Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Seaford
Posts: 146
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerHeinz57 View Post
Some are a battle to free off, others just simply drop out with ease. May I suggest applying a jack under the ball joint and raising it slowly, this will relax the joint and the securing pinch bolt, apply some releasing agent and leave for a while. The other thing to also try is to steer the wheel to apply the pressure on the joint pin into a different zone of its position, followed by a few generous whacks with a decent hammer will see this yield eventually.
This problem is usually caused by repairers re-using the old pinch bolt and doing it up beyond its recommended torque. This has a number of effects,
1 the pinch bold shrinks at the shank that acts on the ball joint as the bolt stretches. This in-turn makes the joint clatter like hell no matter how tight you do the nut and bolt.
2 The hub where the ball joint enters the pinch zone has become deformed and too close together not allowing the joint to pass through it. (Once this has happened, it is unlikely to rescue any of the components affected by johnny big-boy's skillless operations.

If you still have problems, you will need to spread the jaws of the hub carrier to allow the joint to free away from the hub, but remember the likelyhood of it going back together properly and lasting any time is unlikely. Also the use of the proper nut and bolt is essential as it the correct torque setting which is far from tight tight in reality.

Hope this is of some help.
Good luck.
Thanks, some very useful ideas here, particularly jacking under the ball joint. At the moment I just can't get the slightest movement so I feel there is something fundamental that is holding it in which brute force won't solve.

I have got a new pinch bolt on order. Do you know what torque is should be set to?
pugcrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th February 2019, 20:47   #14
zedhed
Posted a thing or two
 
zt saloon turbo

Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Tipton
Posts: 1,461
Thanks: 1
Thanked 167 Times in 132 Posts
Default

What about an sds hammer drill set on just hammer function.hopefully the vibration should free it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
zedhed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th February 2019, 22:23   #15
pugcrew
Avid contributor
 
none

Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Seaford
Posts: 146
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zedhed View Post
What about an sds hammer drill set on just hammer function.hopefully the vibration should free it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's an idea. I haven't got an SDS drill but I assume a normal hammer drill would have the same effect.
pugcrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2019, 08:07   #16
zedhed
Posted a thing or two
 
zt saloon turbo

Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Tipton
Posts: 1,461
Thanks: 1
Thanked 167 Times in 132 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pugcrew View Post
That's an idea. I haven't got an SDS drill but I assume a normal hammer drill would have the same effect.


As long as you can just select hammer action without the chuck turning,yeah.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
zedhed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2019, 13:29   #17
pugcrew
Avid contributor
 
none

Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Seaford
Posts: 146
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Thanks to everyone's suggestions I finally got the pinch bolt out this morning. Think it was a combination of opening up the clamp with a cold chisel and also putting the trolley jack under the clamp to ease the joint a bit. It had also been soaking in releasing fluid overnight which may have helped.

But, Ive now hit my next problem. The lower ball joint is fully released and out of the clamp ok and I've removed the nut from the other joint half way along the arm but I can't get the threaded stud up out of the hole in the sub frame (hope that is clear?).

I have the trolley jack under the threaded stud and have raised the car on it so it has the whole weight of the car pushing on it but it still won't move. I've just put a load of releasing fluid on it and will leave while I have lunch but can someone tell me if I am doing something wrong?

I may be making it a bit difficult for myself as I an trying to get the arm off without removing the rear bush as I've read on here that it is a real PITA to get to the bolts. Is it possible to leave the bush in place and still get the arm off??
pugcrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2019, 15:02   #18
Arctic
Give to Learn
 
Arctic's Avatar
 
Freelander 2

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 18,651
Thanks: 1,155
Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts
Default

[QUOTE=pugcrew;2712384]Thanks to everyone's suggestions I finally got the pinch bolt out this morning. Think it was a combination of opening up the clamp with a cold chisel and also putting the trolley jack under the clamp to ease the joint a bit. It had also been soaking in releasing fluid overnight which may have helped.

But, Ive now hit my next problem. The lower ball joint is fully released and out of the clamp ok and I've removed the nut from the other joint half way along the arm but I can't get the threaded stud up out of the hole in the sub frame (hope that is clear?).

I have the trolley jack under the threaded stud and have raised the car on it so it has the whole weight of the car pushing on it but it still won't move. I've just put a load of releasing fluid on it and will leave while I have lunch but can someone tell me if I am doing something wrong?

Quote:
I may be making it a bit difficult for myself as I an trying to get the arm off without removing the rear bush as I've read on here that it is a real PITA to get to the bolts. Is it possible to leave the bush in place and still get the arm off??[/QUOTE
]

HI Roy.
I would say you fighting a losing battle trying to remove the front lower wishbone arm with out removing the bush /bolts first.

Usually it is best to remove the rear bush bolts, then the ball joint bolt, pop that out, then the centre taper out of the sub frame.
__________________
Arctic
Givology Learn to Give
Everything is Achievable

ad altiora tendo.

Check out our Nano meet dates
http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto

" You do the work , we supply the expertise "
Arctic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2019, 15:48   #19
pugcrew
Avid contributor
 
none

Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Seaford
Posts: 146
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

[QUOTE=Arctic;2712414]
Quote:
Originally Posted by pugcrew View Post
HI Roy.
I would say you fighting a losing battle trying to remove the front lower wishbone arm with out removing the bush /bolts first.

Usually it is best to remove the rear bush bolts, then the ball joint bolt, pop that out, then the centre taper out of the sub frame.
Thanks Artic, I have made some progress this afternoon and following Mike24's method I actually managed to get the centre joint out of the subframe. However I did start to try and get the rear of the arm out of the bush and it is stuck firm. I can see that by the time I have got the arm out (if I did indeed manage to do so) I think I will have ruined the rubber in the bush.

I have decided to bite the bullet and get a new bush. I know that you have adapted some aircraft spanners to get to the bolts but do you know what other tools I could use?
pugcrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2019, 19:21   #20
markypicks
Gets stuck in
 
markypicks's Avatar
 
rover 75 saloon cdt club se re map 160 bhp

Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: sheffield
Posts: 558
Thanks: 227
Thanked 169 Times in 135 Posts
Default

as memory serves does it all come in one unit
markypicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 16:09.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd