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Old 19th February 2019, 12:58   #61
MSS
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Default Parallel thread - interesting reading on page 3

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...=293075&page=3
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Old 19th February 2019, 13:38   #62
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Many of these smart trickle chargers carry the same casing design, mass produced for different companies which have a small amount of input regarding their brand logo, product colour and packaging design. Internals is anyone's guest many are obviously going to have the same boards.

Spend more and get the same £12.99 product is many cases, the RRP price is set by the manufacture, standardized pricing is used so not to confuse customers. Retail stores can and will charge less than the suggested retail price, it all depends upon the wholesale cost. Retailers will need to buy direct from manufactures and wholesale distributors etc, once they take into account their operating expenses and use a pricing strategy to calculate their profit margin, they can then offer the same product at a discounted lower price.

Snobbery buying is somewhat outdated these days, just because you pay more doesn't necessarily mean you are getting a better product. Retail is a cut-throat business, the manufacturing process has changed over these past 20 years, the whole process has been streamlined into manufacturing same generic products.
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Old 19th February 2019, 14:10   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avulon View Post
.... I wouldn't connect any charger with the +ve lead connected to the car electronics ... There's far too many modules that should be in sleep mode with the ign off that might not take kindly to the sort of voltage changes and cycling of a modern battery charger.
When you think about it, what's the difference between the "voltage changes" caused by:

1. The ignition being turned on
2. The operation of the starter motor and
3. The alternator commencing charging

and a modern 'smart' battery charger?

Nothing I would suggest.

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Old 19th February 2019, 14:37   #64
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I agree Simon.

The differences only occur if/when say a high voltage spike induced in the charger's feed or leads (as an example) enters the circuit. How the charger deals with such transient behaviour could make the different between a fried car and one that is not.

Exactly the same scenario as a PC and the protection offered by the the PSU (Brian!).
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Old 19th February 2019, 14:58   #65
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The Alternator is not just a generator, it has rectifiers and regulators to prevent over-charging and spiking and will also blow in extreme cases to prevent possible damage (although, as we know, that doesn't always succeed!).

For me, there's a massive difference in maintenance charging or "conditioning" - i.e. charging the battery while in-situ in the vehicle - and re-charging from a flat or low charge state - i.e. removing the battery from the vehicle first.

But then, I have always removed any battery from the vehicle to charge it.

I have various chargers, including one bought from Argos @ £15.99 - It's an 8A smart charger that is also suitable for AGM & Gel batteries and works very well. In fact it's the one I use most often. I also have a battery conditioner I used to use for my bikes, but again would only use it with the battery out of the bike..... especially when it's an £80,000 race bike.

I don't see the point in risking the vehicles' electronics under any circumstances for the sake of the 2 minutes it takes to remove or re-install the battery.

If keeping the radio presets and clock time mean so much to you, then fine.... but my ECU's etc. mean far more to me!
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Old 19th February 2019, 15:02   #66
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I bought one of these a few years ago and has done excellent for me. It may only be 6 Amp but does the job and even large batteries for Mercs etc have been charged overnight.
A very handy tool but I must admit Ive lent it to family and friends more times than I have used it lol!
https://www.screwfix.com/p/ring-rcb2...er-6-12v/69046
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Old 19th February 2019, 15:21   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBen View Post

I have various chargers, including one bought from Argos @ £15.99
I bought one from Argos about 15 years ago, its a 6/12V charger for lead acid batteries only, option of fast or slow charge etc. Have only ever used it a few times over the years, have always ended up having to buy a new battery in the end anyway.

I also have three different 400amp jump starter booster packs, all of them have done their job in starting several cars over the years, even my 2.5ltr.

I cant see myself using this Aldi charger though, but then again, it may benefit the caravan if I get around to setting up some snazzy installation for it.
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Old 19th February 2019, 15:44   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBen View Post
.............

I don't see the point in risking the vehicles' electronics under any circumstances for the sake of the 2 minutes it takes to remove or re-install the battery.

.............

If you do a search, some cars' electronics have been damaged (e.g. EEPROM contents lost) by the spikes that can result when removing/reinstalling the battery.

The most effective voltage/transient regulator in a car is actually the battery provided it is in good condition. That being the case, I would argue that removing/reinstalling the battery actually carries far greater risk than connecting a charger to the battery in-situ.
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Old 19th February 2019, 18:03   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mss View Post
If you do a search, some cars' electronics have been damaged (e.g. EEPROM contents lost) by the spikes that can result when removing/reinstalling the battery.

The most effective voltage/transient regulator in a car is actually the battery provided it is in good condition. That being the case, I would argue that removing/reinstalling the battery actually carries far greater risk than connecting a charger to the battery in-situ.
You have just raised a point that has always concerned me also.
I often get a good flash when installing a charged battery back into the car.
Can anyone explain why that doesn't cause a massive spike?
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Old 19th February 2019, 18:30   #70
MSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tourer View Post
You have just raised a point that has always concerned me also.
I often get a good flash when installing a charged battery back into the car.
Can anyone explain why that doesn't cause a massive spike?

A current surge by itself is not really the problem but reactances within the car can turn it into a voltage spike. This does happen.
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