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Old 5th February 2018, 15:06   #11
Trisman
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I went through this only the other week...

If you plan to replace the complete alternator, either type will fit the diesel engined cars. So it makes sense to fit a later, higher output alternator.

So, the later two pin or the earlier three pin alternators will fit & work, regardless of whether or not your car's wiring loom has a two or three pin plug.

Replacing a complete alternator is apparently a bear of a job...

I decided to replace just the regulator, without taking the alternator off the car.

It's is a fiddly job, but as I mentioned, is apparently a lot quicker & easier than removing & replacing the alternator.

It took me around 3/4 of an hour on a cold day. The only difficult bit (part from keeping my hands warm!) was removing the gloop the manufacturers see fit to smear on the two small connectors. (See the first picture above in Colvert's post).

The regulators are not interchangeable. You have to get a three pin one for the earlier, three pin alternators, or a two pin one for the later two pin ones.

In my case, I did what DMGRS suggested & obtained both types of regulator. Turned out that my first purchase (a three pin regulator) was correct & I didn't even need to take the later two-pin type out of it's box! It was sent back for a (pre-agreed) refund.
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Now gone: 2000 Rover 75 CDT. Manual. Tahiti blue (JRJ).

Mods: EGR delete. Synergy 2E. In-line Thermostat. Electric, heated black leather seats. Chrome Skullcaps. Black steering wheel. 18" MG ZT 11 spoke wheels. Plenum spy-hole. In-dash Sat-Nav. Mesh grill.
Repairs: Rad fan. Clutch/flywheel. Exhaust. Rear light seals. Front bushes & ARB links. Springs. A/C regas. Alternator regulator. Window 'B' post trim.
Future: Remote boot release.
Front end drop, 160 remap..!?

Last edited by Trisman; 5th February 2018 at 15:11.. Reason: Typo.
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Old 6th February 2018, 00:05   #12
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[QUOTE=Trisman;2592454]I went through this only the other week...

If you plan to replace the complete alternator, either type will fit the diesel engined cars. So it makes sense to fit a later, higher output alternator.

So, the later two pin or the earlier three pin alternators will fit & work, regardless of whether or not your car's wiring loom has a two or three pin plug.

Replacing a complete alternator is apparently a bear of a job...

I decided to replace just the regulator, without taking the alternator off the car.

It's is a fiddly job, but as I mentioned, is apparently a lot quicker & easier than removing & replacing the alternator.

It took me around 3/4 of an hour on a cold day. The only difficult bit (part from keeping my hands warm!) was removing the gloop the manufacturers see fit to smear on the two small connectors. (See the first picture above in Colvert's post).

The regulators are not interchangeable. You have to get a three pin one for the earlier, three pin alternators, or a two pin one for the later two pin ones.

In my case, I did what DMGRS suggested & obtained both types of regulator. Turned out that my first purchase (a three pin regulator) was correct & I didn't even need to take the later two-pin type out of it's box! It was sent back for a (pre-agreed) refund.

I did wonder if the regulator could be changed while still in place but just taking the plug off and on again to check the pins was restrictive enough but if you've done it,i will take this route.Any handy tips would be gratefully accepted.Thanks for the reply.
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Old 6th February 2018, 02:42   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lesternester View Post
Any handy tips would be gratefully accepted.Thanks for the reply.
I received some helpful tips from this very forum when I asked about doing the job!

See: Diesel Alternator thread

Best was to use a magnetic probe extension thing. It came in very handy, as did ensuring the tools I used were magnetic.

Be extra careful with the (non magnetic & tiny) brass nuts. Though if your car has the later 2 pin regulator, it look like they won't be quite as small.

Hopefully, the 2 pin regulators don't make use of the black gloop either.

I was able to get away without loosening either the filter housing or PAS reservoir, but I did loosen the dip-stick tube.

To fit the new regulator over the slip rings, I used a length of masking tape to hold the bushes up against their spring pressure. Once the regulator was in place, I gently pulled the masking tape from between the brushes & the slip rings.

You'll see what I mean when you try to fit the regulator without compressing the brushes...!

Good luck!
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Now gone: 2000 Rover 75 CDT. Manual. Tahiti blue (JRJ).

Mods: EGR delete. Synergy 2E. In-line Thermostat. Electric, heated black leather seats. Chrome Skullcaps. Black steering wheel. 18" MG ZT 11 spoke wheels. Plenum spy-hole. In-dash Sat-Nav. Mesh grill.
Repairs: Rad fan. Clutch/flywheel. Exhaust. Rear light seals. Front bushes & ARB links. Springs. A/C regas. Alternator regulator. Window 'B' post trim.
Future: Remote boot release.
Front end drop, 160 remap..!?

Last edited by Trisman; 6th February 2018 at 20:14..
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Old 6th February 2018, 11:06   #14
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See links in my signature for diesel alternator solutions

Snagger
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How to remove CDT alternator from top & side :-

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=199608

Battery charge light problems on a diesel ?

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...3&postcount=64

Diesel charging FBH voltage supply diagram

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ght=cdt+charge

How to identify voltage regulator type diesel

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...56&postcount=3

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Old 1st February 2019, 20:33   #15
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Well,,,, what can I add?.
Well,, three days ago my MG battery light started to come on and go off intermittentlywhilst diving and then on Wednesday stay on all the time. Suspecting a now duff regulator (been here before), following advice here, I did a quick check on the plug to the alternator and upon seeing 2 female connectors I immediately ordered a 2 pin jobbie of the Bay!

It arrived on Thursday and so I promptly set about the tortuous task of removing the reg.
All went well until I could not find the regulator middle nut. I kept looking at the new part as a reference. To make matters worse, Someone (Valeo) had smothered the area with black gunge making it impossible to find the said Nut.

Cursing the French and scrapping my knuckles, pulling like an A4 Pacific, I managed to wreck the whole thing, bits everywhere,,,,,, only to discover that although I had 2 connections in the plug, the reg was a 3 pin affair, hence there was no centre Nut but 2 small 7mm nut heads to remove.
Damn and blast!! Check the regulator pins not the plug!!

Too late now, I had trashed the rectifier as well!! Doh!!! (more cursing to follow, and now apologies in abundance to the French)

I have now ordered a used 100260 2 pin alternator £40 which I will, for my sins, refurb with the already purchased 2 pin regulator along with new slip rings and new bearing from Matt at DMGRS.
A good YouTube video has shown how to do this so maybe this time I’ll get it all right!!
https://youtu.be/f56-26I6idc
Why does it always happen in January,, please someone tell me!!!
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Last edited by Clickernick; 1st February 2019 at 20:40..
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Old 17th February 2019, 19:45   #16
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Well,,, after a bit of a wait, i procured a second hand genuine 120 amp 2 pin alternator of the Bay with 2011 stamped on it so its a low miler.

I changed the regulator brushes for the new set bought prior, I was going to do the whole thing properly and change the slip rings and bearing but as it was in good shape with minimal wear to the commutator, I just striped the alternator down, thoroughly degreased it (Jizer) and threw it in the dishwasher for an intense wash,, it was a real grotty state. I think a previous owner had tipped a lot of engine oil over it or had a leaky oil filter canister.

I decided to follow the above method from Snagger and go in 'from the top'.

I followed a print out of the above posters method and as i have a rather good high-lift alloy professional jack and some decent axle stands it was a no brainer.

The weather today was excellent if a bit blowy but all went to plan.

Being able to raise and lower the engine at will made it all work very well and no dirt in my eyes from doing it all underneath.

The only help i needed was to push the engine backwards enough to allow enough space to extract the alternator up out of its hole, and then again to lower the replacement one in.

I had a couple of spare gates belts to hand bought of a member here and as the AC one was seriously shot, (166,000 miles) they both got changed as a bonus.

The whole job took 5 hours and although I said never again, i would do it the same way every time.
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Real walnut interior. Original refurbished Forked Spokes 16” with Michelin Primacy 4 rubber, Pioneer AVH-Z9200DAB double din Wi Fi phone integration. Retrofitted twin front horns. 160 re-map. Revotec fan. Silicone intercooler hoses and ‘O ring’ replacement. Top hose thermostat. New walnut and smokestone steering wheel with cruise upgrade. Brembo Brakes. Ceramic coated rear Exhaust. L/engine mount, Hydramount, Bosch MAF. Focal Access Drivers and Focal Amp.

Last edited by Clickernick; 17th February 2019 at 19:48..
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Old 17th February 2019, 23:32   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clickernick View Post
Well,,, after a bit of a wait, i procured a second hand genuine 120 amp 2 pin alternator of the Bay with 2011 stamped on it so its a low miler.

I changed the regulator brushes for the new set bought prior, I was going to do the whole thing properly and change the slip rings and bearing but as it was in good shape with minimal wear to the commutator, I just striped the alternator down, thoroughly degreased it (Jizer) and threw it in the dishwasher for an intense wash,, it was a real grotty state. I think a previous owner had tipped a lot of engine oil over it or had a leaky oil filter canister.

I decided to follow the above method from Snagger and go in 'from the top'.

I followed a print out of the above posters method and as i have a rather good high-lift alloy professional jack and some decent axle stands it was a no brainer.

The weather today was excellent if a bit blowy but all went to plan.

Being able to raise and lower the engine at will made it all work very well and no dirt in my eyes from doing it all underneath.

The only help i needed was to push the engine backwards enough to allow enough space to extract the alternator up out of its hole, and then again to lower the replacement one in.

I had a couple of spare gates belts to hand bought of a member here and as the AC one was seriously shot, (166,000 miles) they both got changed as a bonus.

The whole job took 5 hours and although I said never again, i would do it the same way every time.
After the dish washer how did you re-oil the bearings ??
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Old 18th February 2019, 10:27   #18
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My alternator light decided to come on whilst driving last year, I limped the old girl home an changed the brush-pack. Unfortunately after shelling out £35 and spending around 1 hour skinning knuckles fitting it, I find that it made no difference and the alternator was U/S.

I took the alternator out and had this rebuilt at a local workshop in Basildon. Unfortunately they wouldn't use my brand new brush pack as they couldn't guarantee it. They rebuilt the unit for a modest £95. At the same time, I had the weeping power steering pump re-built. Changing the alternator isn't the hardest job I have done, but it is time consuming with dropping and lifting the engine on the jack to access the bolts.
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