2 problems 1 day. - Page 2

Prometheus · 25th October 2010, 10:40

Just bled the system a little bit of air but not much. maybe 10CC.

While refitting dropped the oil filler cap to the bottom undertray (this is NOT my day) got that sorted again. Bleeding hands.

Airco off Blower off .

Then started the engine and ran the Diagnostic. Takes a while to warm up (verry slowly) Temp needle seems to be correct since at 75C it was smack on 9 o clock.

took about 25 to 30 seconds for it to go from 88C to 89 C

total warm up time to about 100C was about 15 to 20 mins.

Waited a bit longer until temp was 100 then the fan came on.

temp rose to 101 then back down 1 degree about every 5 to 7 seconds until it got to 95 fan shut off and temp kept on dropping to 91 and started rising again.

Went for a little drive to the petrol station about 3 km While driving city traffic temp stays around 85C.
while doing outside city limits driving 80kph 50mph temp drops to around 76ish C

At temp 92 while stationairy i blipped the throttle to 5k rpm temp imediatly drops a couple of degrees 2 to 3

I also noticed problem 4 leaky exhuast at this point

It's now officailly testing my patience this car.

SD1too · 25th October 2010, 13:27

All the data you've given since you bled the system sounds normal. I'd be amazed if it reached 100 degrees at idle if the thermostat was stuck open.

It's good to know that the cooling fan is working properly.

I'd drive normally for the next few days, keeping a close eye on the coolant temperature. Also check the level in the expansion tank after a few days. Have you lost coolant? If so, how much? Once the temperature gauge has reached the nine o'clock position it should stay there.

As for the exhaust, you're doing well if this is the first time it's leaking. Your MG is not really giving you a hard time!

Keep us informed.

Simon.

Prometheus · 25th October 2010, 13:35

Hi Simon,

Thanks for your reply.

I've never lost coolant really. Today i added about 10 CC a coke can is about 33 CC here to give you an idea. While filling i had the expansion tank out and higher up the top of the Radiator spilled some OAT but about 5CC im guessing so in total verry little added within a margian of error on my part.

I've just noticed that if i drive faster speeds around 60MPH my temp will never reach 9 o clock anymore. It used to warm up quickly and just stay at 9 but nowadays it will sit below that around 8 ish for city driving and 7 to 7:30 ish for highway driving. It never did that before so maybe it's not fully stuck open but Verry lazy and not working as it should.

What i also found verry odd is when i throttle up in neutral to say 5k rpm the temparature drops after 3 or 4 seconds. Like the water pump is pumping to much cold water into the engine and it drops verry quickly. Again it never used to do that until i notcied the running temps.

I've spend today reading about thermostats and kits and metal ones. Is there a definitive awnser yet about use the OEM or the Metal Kaiser part? Fitment still remove all the inlet manifolds and fuel rails. Or is the new way of fitment possible without removing anything but the throttle body. (Read that on the kaiser development Metal Thermostat housing post recent addition 9th of october)

Regards and thanks for helping me

Marijn

Prometheus · 25th October 2010, 13:50

Just for funsies went to the history i have with this car so far.

37K Bought the car new in germany drove it to holland, (fabeled orange clip needed) AKA my introduction to this forum and exelent help !

40K Inlet manifold replaced gunked up with oil and snapped power vis.
50K new backbox needed exhaust Not in supply waited 5 months before MOT here but not delivarable so ended up fitting Rover 75 Backbox V6 as only option to Stainless does around 900GBP here for a cat back system (rediculous prices yes)
60 K fitted oil catch tank
65 K sticky trhottle. Cleaned the Throttle body housing no change. Slacked off on the thottle cable so it would not stick anymore Garage tightend it to remove play in gas pedal.
70 K New vis motors yaay
70 K removed oil catch tank not doing anything.
80 K (6 yrs belts pump all fitted as per schedual)
90 K New Clutch master + Slave cylinder Dual mass flywheel and clutch plate
95 K Headlamp washer pump.
96 K Airbag lights galore. After soldering the seat connectors still active. Seems garage that did clutch din't fit rubber though firewall back properly water underneath the carpet and swamped the Side impact sensor under driver Position (lhd)
99 K Lower tie rod replaced.
100K Current. Exhaust leaking , Water in Boot, Some accident damage guessing in the drivetrain. Thermostat lazy or open. Hearing a little rattle from the inlet manifold.

and that's it

Prometheus · 26th October 2010, 10:30

Decided to start ordering parts for Odds and Sodds that now need doing. Inquired about metal thermostat ordered new shannon tube 2 ply neoprene jobbie. Looking into some breather pipes since i cracked mine and fixed it with ducktape. (i know bad). Looking for Exhaust what i might need.

Still looking to renew Disks and Pads all round maybe germany has some nice ones.
And ofcourse an Antenna splitter for the new DD. from radioguy

Prometheus · 30th October 2010, 14:30

We're on now a full week.

Here's the status of jobs.

Fixed the boot leak

Metal thermostat housing ordered and on it's way

New Shannon tube arrived and ready to go on.

Still need to order a new breather pipe 9mm diamiter

Kocking on driving is getting worse

No fluid lost at all over the week (low miles though) I'd say the level is a bit HIGH and might be a little over max.

Found a verry little amount of Mayo substance in Oil cap inside less then a tablespoon full. Will monitor futher.

Hopefully the thermostat gets here quick so i can get it fitted.

Oyea looking for a stainless backbox
New break disks
New pads
new abs sensors

Might as well go all out now i'm going.

Prometheus · 1st November 2010, 14:17

There's no easy way of saying this but i'm a TOOL.

Remember the knocking sound from the first post that got me so worried? It started to get worse and worse and all my attention went to the wheel that was hit in the accident i had Left Front. Today was especially bad slowly driving it became more and more profound.

So i went to check the other wheels. Right Front bolts loose !!

Turns out i changed my summer tyres for Winter Tyres 4 days before i started hearing the knocking sound. Turns out i din't do up the bolts fully tight (next investment will be a torque wrench so help me god).

This will teach me not to work on the car when i'm not feeling that well stupid stupid stupid mistake.

25th October 2010, 10:40	#11
Prometheus Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 137 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Maybe i should rename this thread 3 days 4 problems. Just bled the system a little bit of air but not much. maybe 10CC. While refitting dropped the oil filler cap to the bottom undertray (this is NOT my day) got that sorted again. Bleeding hands. Airco off Blower off . Then started the engine and ran the Diagnostic. Takes a while to warm up (verry slowly) Temp needle seems to be correct since at 75C it was smack on 9 o clock. took about 25 to 30 seconds for it to go from 88C to 89 C total warm up time to about 100C was about 15 to 20 mins. Waited a bit longer until temp was 100 then the fan came on. temp rose to 101 then back down 1 degree about every 5 to 7 seconds until it got to 95 fan shut off and temp kept on dropping to 91 and started rising again. Went for a little drive to the petrol station about 3 km While driving city traffic temp stays around 85C. while doing outside city limits driving 80kph 50mph temp drops to around 76ish C At temp 92 while stationairy i blipped the throttle to 5k rpm temp imediatly drops a couple of degrees 2 to 3 I also noticed problem 4 leaky exhuast at this point It's now officailly testing my patience this car. __________________ Car info. MG ZT 190 2003

25th October 2010, 13:27	#12
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,404 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	All the data you've given since you bled the system sounds normal. I'd be amazed if it reached 100 degrees at idle if the thermostat was stuck open. It's good to know that the cooling fan is working properly. I'd drive normally for the next few days, keeping a close eye on the coolant temperature. Also check the level in the expansion tank after a few days. Have you lost coolant? If so, how much? Once the temperature gauge has reached the nine o'clock position it should stay there. As for the exhaust, you're doing well if this is the first time it's leaking. Your MG is not really giving you a hard time! Keep us informed. Simon. __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

25th October 2010, 13:35	#13
Prometheus Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 137 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi Simon, Thanks for your reply. I've never lost coolant really. Today i added about 10 CC a coke can is about 33 CC here to give you an idea. While filling i had the expansion tank out and higher up the top of the Radiator spilled some OAT but about 5CC im guessing so in total verry little added within a margian of error on my part. I've just noticed that if i drive faster speeds around 60MPH my temp will never reach 9 o clock anymore. It used to warm up quickly and just stay at 9 but nowadays it will sit below that around 8 ish for city driving and 7 to 7:30 ish for highway driving. It never did that before so maybe it's not fully stuck open but Verry lazy and not working as it should. What i also found verry odd is when i throttle up in neutral to say 5k rpm the temparature drops after 3 or 4 seconds. Like the water pump is pumping to much cold water into the engine and it drops verry quickly. Again it never used to do that until i notcied the running temps. I've spend today reading about thermostats and kits and metal ones. Is there a definitive awnser yet about use the OEM or the Metal Kaiser part? Fitment still remove all the inlet manifolds and fuel rails. Or is the new way of fitment possible without removing anything but the throttle body. (Read that on the kaiser development Metal Thermostat housing post recent addition 9th of october) Regards and thanks for helping me Marijn __________________ Car info. MG ZT 190 2003

25th October 2010, 13:50	#14
Prometheus Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 137 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Just for funsies went to the history i have with this car so far. 37K Bought the car new in germany drove it to holland, (fabeled orange clip needed) AKA my introduction to this forum and exelent help ! 40K Inlet manifold replaced gunked up with oil and snapped power vis. 50K new backbox needed exhaust Not in supply waited 5 months before MOT here but not delivarable so ended up fitting Rover 75 Backbox V6 as only option to Stainless does around 900GBP here for a cat back system (rediculous prices yes) 60 K fitted oil catch tank 65 K sticky trhottle. Cleaned the Throttle body housing no change. Slacked off on the thottle cable so it would not stick anymore Garage tightend it to remove play in gas pedal. 70 K New vis motors yaay 70 K removed oil catch tank not doing anything. 80 K (6 yrs belts pump all fitted as per schedual) 90 K New Clutch master + Slave cylinder Dual mass flywheel and clutch plate 95 K Headlamp washer pump. 96 K Airbag lights galore. After soldering the seat connectors still active. Seems garage that did clutch din't fit rubber though firewall back properly water underneath the carpet and swamped the Side impact sensor under driver Position (lhd) 99 K Lower tie rod replaced. 100K Current. Exhaust leaking , Water in Boot, Some accident damage guessing in the drivetrain. Thermostat lazy or open. Hearing a little rattle from the inlet manifold. and that's it __________________ Car info. MG ZT 190 2003 Last edited by Prometheus; 25th October 2010 at 14:40..

26th October 2010, 10:30	#15
Prometheus Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 137 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Decided to start ordering parts for Odds and Sodds that now need doing. Inquired about metal thermostat ordered new shannon tube 2 ply neoprene jobbie. Looking into some breather pipes since i cracked mine and fixed it with ducktape. (i know bad). Looking for Exhaust what i might need. Still looking to renew Disks and Pads all round maybe germany has some nice ones. And ofcourse an Antenna splitter for the new DD. from radioguy __________________ Car info. MG ZT 190 2003

30th October 2010, 14:30	#16
Prometheus Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 137 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	We're on now a full week. Here's the status of jobs. Fixed the boot leak Metal thermostat housing ordered and on it's way New Shannon tube arrived and ready to go on. Still need to order a new breather pipe 9mm diamiter Kocking on driving is getting worse No fluid lost at all over the week (low miles though) I'd say the level is a bit HIGH and might be a little over max. Found a verry little amount of Mayo substance in Oil cap inside less then a tablespoon full. Will monitor futher. Hopefully the thermostat gets here quick so i can get it fitted. Oyea looking for a stainless backbox New break disks New pads new abs sensors Might as well go all out now i'm going. __________________ Car info. MG ZT 190 2003

1st November 2010, 14:17	#17
Prometheus Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 137 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ohh my GOD Giant Tool Alert. There's no easy way of saying this but i'm a TOOL. Remember the knocking sound from the first post that got me so worried? It started to get worse and worse and all my attention went to the wheel that was hit in the accident i had Left Front. Today was especially bad slowly driving it became more and more profound. So i went to check the other wheels. Right Front bolts loose !! Turns out i changed my summer tyres for Winter Tyres 4 days before i started hearing the knocking sound. Turns out i din't do up the bolts fully tight (next investment will be a torque wrench so help me god). This will teach me not to work on the car when i'm not feeling that well stupid stupid stupid mistake. __________________ Car info. MG ZT 190 2003