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Old 23rd November 2013, 16:02   #31
Aerosteve
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Refitting the alternator on the diesel auto is much easier if the water pipe to the gearbox cooler is removed, which gives more room to push the aircon compressor across and out of the way.
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Old 16th March 2014, 10:06   #32
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Did you use a particular type or brand of 24mm ring spanner to take the tension off main drive belt,I can't get any of mine to physically fit due to either thickness of them or the slight offset they have,I just can't get them between side of the car and pulley.Flat sided spanner is starting to slip on nut.
Thanks

Last edited by thomablue; 16th March 2014 at 10:07.. Reason: spelling
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Old 16th March 2014, 20:02   #33
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Default Alternator renewal

Steve, your a credit to the club, another top quality How To !
Well done, thank you.
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Old 16th March 2014, 21:15   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomablue View Post
Did you use a particular type or brand of 24mm ring spanner to take the tension off main drive belt,I can't get any of mine to physically fit due to either thickness of them or the slight offset they have,I just can't get them between side of the car and pulley.Flat sided spanner is starting to slip on nut.
Thanks
Hi Kevin
Sorry only just picked up on this, no particular ring spanner well not if a laser one is any different to the next one, hope you have it sorted now cheers Arctic.
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Old 10th June 2014, 07:16   #35
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Default Alternator & compressor removal from below car

Hi ,
I am doing the alternator extraction following the "How To" above. However I have a 2005 cdti Auto which has a transmission oil cooler on the front subframe blocking movement of the AC compressor to the NS.
I do not want to risk damaging the cooler as these are apparently unobtainable now.
I am planning to degass the AC & then disconnect the 2 AC pipes at the compressor hoping I can rotate it & extract it from the car.
I have cut off the unused bracket on the NS of the under tray bracket, but am reluctant to bend the under tray bracket and weaken it in any way.
Has anyone in my situation extracted the compressor without bending the under tray bracket?
Mark

Last edited by markhowell; 10th June 2014 at 07:17.. Reason: Clarification
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Old 10th June 2014, 18:40   #36
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Perhaps as an alternative, I have replaced my alternator on a 2004 mk1 automatic by unbolting the powersteering pump and changing it from above.
It only took to take of the belt, part of the engine mount and the powersteering pump.
Seems it cannot be done this way on all cars as someone mentioned that an airconditioning pipe was in the way to be able to juggle the alternator out...
Worked great for me. There is an how to in a post on here if you want more information.

Good luck,
Rob
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Old 16th August 2014, 21:21   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jules View Post
Most exchange Alts are of a lower Amperage.
100 AMP is perfectly fine for 75 Zt's

In fact your battery won't get cooked as much!
I've replaced far more batteries on facelifts with 120 Amp Alts than the (Usually) Mk1's with the 100 Amp


We started changing batteries in 2007 on 04 plate 75's (then only 3 years old !)

This Winter I am STILL changing out ORIGINAL Delphi batteries with 2003 2004 stamped on them in CDT's with 100A Alts.


Higher rated Alternators aren't always best IMO.............they boil yer cells if you don't keep the battery trickle charged in the cold Winters because they are generating almost full o/p to


You're far better off with a low o/p generator and carefully "manage" your current consumption (ie not having every gadget switched on at once) and this will give typically 8 - 10 years battery life with regular external trickle charging.


We still have the original 2004 Delphi Batteries in 2 of our cars
Jules.

Alternator output is regulated to around 14,4 volts irrespective of load.

A high output alternator is regulated to this voltage in EXACTLY the same way as a low output alternator. ie. You Won't fry your battery.

When you switch on any electrical load the alternator output rises to match this plus around 5 amps for the battery which reduces as the battery voltage rises.



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Old 17th August 2014, 13:53   #38
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I know all the theory pal but reality is lower o/p Alts give the battery a kinder life.

What is your explanation for batts lasting longer with lower o/p Alts driving them?!!
I have the evidence here
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Old 17th August 2014, 14:48   #39
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Default Delphi.

Another explanation as to why the early Delphi batteries lasted so much longer than the later Delphi units (same part no) fitted to many of the facelifts is that the quality of the cell plates was reduced
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1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent
2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning
3. Bonnet cable divider block
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Old 18th August 2014, 18:53   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jules View Post
I know all the theory pal but reality is lower o/p Alts give the battery a kinder life.

What is your explanation for batts lasting longer with lower o/p Alts driving them?!!
I have the evidence here
There are SO MANY variables in the life of batteries that it's impossible to say that THIS or THAT made the battery last longer. Some folk can kill them in a very short time if their car is hard to start.

The batteries that seem to have a long life are probably those that have something like an optimate attached to them regularly.

Personally I can't see a regulated output from a small output alternator being any different than that from a large output alternator. Both are regulated down to EXACTLY the same voltage. ( Approx 14.4 volts-----Unless, of course, you know something magic that I don't know about. )

Have a look in the section titled----Really really useful info----at the top of the page and have a glance at my two posts in there.--



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