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Old 20th March 2008, 12:02   #1
Snowy
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Default Drivers door card problem

Hi all,

I have a problem with my drivers door card. There is a gap (about 5mm) at the top near the lock button. If I give the car a shove outwards it goes back into position (with a slight click) and stays there.... for about 10 minutes and then pops back again? There is also a very very quiet rattle/buzz from it which is obviously more noticeable when it pops back out.

Any ideas please?
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Old 20th March 2008, 15:59   #2
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Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
Hi all,

I have a problem with my drivers door card. There is a gap (about 5mm) at the top near the lock button. If I give the car a shove outwards it goes back into position (with a slight click) and stays there.... for about 10 minutes and then pops back again? There is also a very very quiet rattle/buzz from it which is obviously more noticeable when it pops back out.

Any ideas please?
Ditto.....

I have exactly the same issue.... how bizzarre
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Old 20th March 2008, 16:16   #3
Raistlin
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I'm pretty sure you'll find that is owing to a broken "fir tree" clip.

It seems to be to only clip which invariably gets broken when the trim panel is removed.

They are pennies to buy though

When you have your trim panel off to replace the clip, I'd suggest a little piece of foam behind the shaft of the locking button as well. That will stop it rattling in its sleeve when the trim panel is re-fitted.

A way to confirm whether that is the source of the buzzing is to lightky touch the locking button when you hear the buzz and see if it stops.

Last edited by Raistlin; 20th March 2008 at 16:18..
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Old 20th March 2008, 16:34   #4
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Originally Posted by Raistlin View Post
I'm pretty sure you'll find that is owing to a broken "fir tree" clip.

It seems to be to only clip which invariably gets broken when the trim panel is removed.

They are pennies to buy though

When you have your trim panel off to replace the clip, I'd suggest a little piece of foam behind the shaft of the locking button as well. That will stop it rattling in its sleeve when the trim panel is re-fitted.

A way to confirm whether that is the source of the buzzing is to lightky touch the locking button when you hear the buzz and see if it stops.
Thanks v much for that Raistlin! Any ideas on where I can buy a "Fir Tree Clip" from please (and is it a specific one)?

Also, any pointers to a "how-to" on removing the door panel?

Oh... and do you have any idea when this rain is going to stop in Manchester so I can do the job ??
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Old 20th March 2008, 17:03   #5
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The clip you want will be either:-

EKM 100090 or

EKM 100100 or

EKM 100270

From an X-Part dealer.

I can never remember which is which but they are all showing up in EPC as about £1 each. Worth having a few spare I'd suggest or if you're going to be anywhere close to me in Wolverhampton, I could dig one or two out of my bits box.

Removing the trim panel consists of removing a screw in the door vent chamber and one in the door latch.

Then you pull the edges away all round the sides and lower edge of the trim panel.

The only tricky bit is dis-engaging the monster clips which hold the middle of the trim panel to the metalwork of the door.

Easiest way is to whack the bottom edge of the door panel upwards with the palm of your hand.

Be very careful of the door latch though. If you're not it's VERY easy to break the clips which hold the chrome embellisher in place.

Don't try prising the embellisher away from the door latch. Once the trim panel is loose a quick peek inside from the top reveals how the door latch can be removed.

Make a note of the orientation of the two monster clips which will still be attached to the door, then remove them and re-fit them on the trim panel.

Re-fitting, as they say in the Haynes manuals, is a reversal of the removal procedure (almost).

Of all the "fir tree" clips around the periphery of the trim panel, I would suggest that the only one to be completely knackered will be the one closest to the lock button. In fact.it'll almost certainly be still attached to the door and you'll need to remove it with a trim tool or pliars.

As far as the weather goes...Do I have to do EVERYTHING for you?

Last edited by Raistlin; 20th March 2008 at 17:09..
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Old 20th March 2008, 18:54   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raistlin View Post
The clip you want will be either:-

EKM 100090 or

EKM 100100 or

EKM 100270

From an X-Part dealer.

I can never remember which is which but they are all showing up in EPC as about £1 each. Worth having a few spare I'd suggest or if you're going to be anywhere close to me in Wolverhampton, I could dig one or two out of my bits box.

Removing the trim panel consists of removing a screw in the door vent chamber and one in the door latch.

Then you pull the edges away all round the sides and lower edge of the trim panel.

The only tricky bit is dis-engaging the monster clips which hold the middle of the trim panel to the metalwork of the door.

Easiest way is to whack the bottom edge of the door panel upwards with the palm of your hand.

Be very careful of the door latch though. If you're not it's VERY easy to break the clips which hold the chrome embellisher in place.

Don't try prising the embellisher away from the door latch. Once the trim panel is loose a quick peek inside from the top reveals how the door latch can be removed.

Make a note of the orientation of the two monster clips which will still be attached to the door, then remove them and re-fit them on the trim panel.

Re-fitting, as they say in the Haynes manuals, is a reversal of the removal procedure (almost).

Of all the "fir tree" clips around the periphery of the trim panel, I would suggest that the only one to be completely knackered will be the one closest to the lock button. In fact.it'll almost certainly be still attached to the door and you'll need to remove it with a trim tool or pliars.

As far as the weather goes...Do I have to do EVERYTHING for you?
Sounds a bit complex !!?!?

Actually I might have to pop down to Stoke next week so I could pop down to Wolverhampton if you don't mind to grab a clip off you (i will pay you for it of course).

While i'm there you could possibly give me a quick appraisal of the car and give me your opinion on what needs doing. This is my first 75 (picked up a few days ago) after years of Volvo petrols so I don't really know how she is supposed to drive to be honest!
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Old 20th March 2008, 19:09   #7
Raistlin
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Quote:
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Sounds a bit complex !!?!?

Actually I might have to pop down to Stoke next week so I could pop down to Wolverhampton if you don't mind to grab a clip off you (i will pay you for it of course).

While i'm there you could possibly give me a quick appraisal of the car and give me your opinion on what needs doing. This is my first 75 (picked up a few days ago) after years of Volvo petrols so I don't really know how she is supposed to drive to be honest!
No charge for the clip - I should have several spares in the box. I expect we'd have time to sort your door panel out as well. It only takes 15 minutes to take it off and re-fit it again.

Would be interesting to compare cars. Mine has the Synergy fitted and so should convince you to have one if you haven't already
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Old 20th March 2008, 19:11   #8
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No charge for the clip - I should have several spares in the box.

Would be interesting to compare cars. Mine has the Synergy fitted and so should convince you to have one if you haven't already

What a great idea and a very kind offer! I would love to compare the difference before I buy the Synergy. Although my 75 is very smooth and quiet with no smoke whatsoever (even in the morning) it does seem quite underpowered (it's the 116 variant). But, there again I have been used to a petrol turbocharged Volvo. I'm not entirely sure if my turbo is working TBH - There doesn't seem to be any noticeable "pull" from it.
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Old 20th March 2008, 19:15   #9
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What a great idea and a very kind offer! I would love to compare the difference before I buy the Synergy. Although my 75 is very smooth and quiet with no smoke whatsoever (even in the morning) it does seem quite underpowered (it's the 116 variant). But, there again I have been used to a petrol turbocharged Volvo. I'm not entirely sure if my turbo is working TBH - There doesn't seem to be any noticeable "pull" from it.
I think most of us acquire enough bits and pieces to be able to build a considerable proportion of a Rover 75 or ZT straight out of the bits box

Let me know if you're going to come over - I'll have the kettle on
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Old 20th March 2008, 19:18   #10
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I think most of us acquire enough bits and pieces to be able to build a considerable proportion of a Rover 75 or ZT straight out of the bits box
LOL!

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Let me know if you're going to come over - I'll have the kettle on
Well I will probably be over on Tuesday if you're around. It doesn't matter what time I am in Stoke as I only have to drop something off. Are you around Tuesday and if so what time is best for you?

Si.
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