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31st May 2021, 09:36 | #41 |
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The Viton seals of my cap on the expansion tank are flattened . I will change these.
Last edited by Shuriken_57; 31st May 2021 at 09:38.. |
31st May 2021, 10:51 | #42 | |
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11th June 2021, 16:54 | #43 |
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Hello, I used mg rover filling method for coolant. No change. The engine takes a long time to heat and to reach just 80 82 ( it is very hot here in France).
I realized that the temperature oscillates: sometimes it displays 85 degrees then a second after 78 and then goes up . I had changed my sensor by a dmgrs, I did not keep my original bmw sensor. When I disassembled my thermostat , some coolant has flowed on the sensor and its wiring. Do you think the sensor is defective? The coolant level is stable. Thanks you. Last edited by Shuriken_57; 11th June 2021 at 17:03.. |
12th June 2021, 10:30 | #44 | ||
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12th June 2021, 11:19 | #45 |
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Hi.
I'm still surprised that there are threads about this issue. I discussed this many times when I owned a KV6 a few years ago. I did my thermostat by the keyhole method. Its imperative to clean off the crud round the hole for the thermostat, it doesn't need to be shiny but there has to be a clean surface and bore with no pitting or corrosion and a nice grey surface. The Viton O rings must be properly lubricated with only Molycote 111, I keep banging on about this and will till the cows come home. Its not cheap but a tube will last for years. Do this once and then forget it. I also found some themostats are copies even those from reputable sources so beware, from memory it's quite easy to see inside and compare the difference between the original and the copy, all the ones that give cooler running are lower opening and not to Rover spec...... So beware. The reason the temperature goes up and down is nothing at all to do with the odd drip when the engine cools its the poor quality themostats pulsing open and closing as their thermal range is less due to design. So get your Molycote 111, new O rings and grease the rings so you'll not get leaks there any more unless the bore and facing of the hole is in a bad way. PS use Molycote 111 on all your O rings in the cooling system, on the cap etc that is what it's designed for. https://www.silmid.com/silicones/sil...ze-and-colour/
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Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ Last edited by murphyv310; 12th June 2021 at 11:23.. |
7th July 2021, 01:13 | #46 |
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Hello, after having settled my tank problem, I now take care of the temperature of the engine because my fuel consumption is high.
The thermostat is new(original part changed twice) and no longer leaks. I also changed the temperature sensor and the expansion cap. According to your advice, it could be the water pump (replaced with the cam belts 8 months ago). Do you think I need a new water pump? The level in the expansion tank is stable but the temperature remains stable at about 82° and rises to 100 in town. Thank you |
7th July 2021, 03:32 | #47 | |
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What has the water pump got to do with it? The temperatures are fine, it looks to me.
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7th July 2021, 07:14 | #48 | |
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No!
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7th July 2021, 12:53 | #49 |
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I too have recently fitted a new thermostat and temp sensor supplied by DMGRS and am seeing the same lower running temps using the ipk on my KV6. Maximum temp when car is moving is 78 to 80° regardless of motorway or city driving and I the car will not get any hotter even if giving it 'the beans' Bottom rad hose starts to get warm around 75° and is too hot to hold at 78°. I contacted them with my concern that the car is running on the low side and they assured me that these kits come with 82° stats fitted not 88° as was fitted at factory. They said as long as the car sits in the 'normal' calibrated temperature range of 75 to 115° then not to worry. If the car struggles to maintain the minimum 75° during winter, they will replace the kit FOC. Who knows ??
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7th July 2021, 13:21 | #50 | |
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I had read that this could be from an unsealed system. I would be surprised if I bought two defective thermostats. Perhaps they are no longer calibrated to open at 88°. |
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