Any Bergen Vacuum Purge & Refill Users on here?

[3pinplug]

Hi
Tried to coolant vacuum purge my system using the Bergen 6 pc kit (5222) but it didnt come with any instructions. From looking round the net I fitted the right size bung to the bottom the gauge and pressed home into the top of the coolant reservoir.

Then connected the compressor (1.5hp , 16 bar) and turned on, could only get gauge to go up to 13cmHg / 5inHg of vacuum, i need to get to:-

64 to 68 cmHg
25 to 29 inHG


when i turned the valve and captured the vacuum and left it for 10 - 15 minutes the gauge didnt move so seems to be holding what little pressure it has.

Any ideas where i'm going wrong, have read some people have clamped one of the top cooling hoses - do i need to do that????, hope someone can advise.

Also once i get up to vacuum and turn valve to capture it, do i simply disconnect airline to compressor and replace with the one in the coolant then just open the valve and coolant goes in.

The "T" shaped connections block had:-
1 going to the gauge
1 going to a muffler ?(just seems to expel air)
1 going to the compressor


Tried ringing place I brought it from yesterday but must have been early closing, dont't want to loose today as hoping to get this done and turn key.





Thanks

Mark

[T-Cut]

The basic principle of vacuum filling is the same, whether you use your particular kit, or go to a garage with the commercial version, or you use a DIY kit like I made. If you read through this HowTo, it may become clear why your first shot hasn't worked as expected. Working with vacuum can be confusing and counter-intuitive at times. It can also catch you out and send the coolant somewhere you didn't expect.

How To http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=41864

TC

[VMax1000]

I thought the system was supposed to be self-bleeding

When the air reaches the expansion tank and the level drops, just fill the tank to the right level again.

[3pinplug]

thanks for the pointer to the post, mine doesn't have the two pipes connected at once and has a muffler on a t-piece but looks like the principle is the same as you say.

Seems to be a can of worms as how to bleed the V6 so went for the vacuum route as liked the look of it - just need to get it too work!!

Thanks

Mark

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by VMax1000

I thought the system was supposed to be self-bleeding

No, self-bleeding isn't a feature of these engines. Air can easily get trapped in the higher locations, like the heater matrix. The V6 requires the header tank to be raised as well as the correct use of the bleed screw.

Vacuum refilling is a sure fire way to prevent air entrapment, but it can seem complicated the first time you do it.

TC

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by 3pinplug

thanks for the pointer to the post, mine doesn't have the two pipes connected at once and has a muffler on a t-piece but looks like the principle is the same as you say.

Seems to be a can of worms as how to bleed the V6 so went for the vacuum route as liked the look of it - just need to get it too work!!

The box of bits looks pretty straight forward once you understand the gist of it. I'm unclear what the 'muffler' is though. Maybe an anti-suckback valve to prevent the coolant being accidentally sucked back into the vac pump ??? I had some coolant getting back into the Pela when my valve shutting was less than perfect.

The bit with the pressure gauge goes into the filler neck using one of the rubber collars to seal it properly. The T-piece should be connected to that. The other branches go to your coolant bottle and the vacuum pump. My DIY kit is basically the same thing without the pressure gauge. There will be valves on the T-piece to allow you to evacuate the cooling system, then to close off the pump and open the evacuated system to the supply bottle. The valves make it a doddle - unlike the mole grips I use to nip off the tubing.

TC

[VMax1000]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

No, self-bleeding isn't a feature of these engines. Air can easily get trapped in the higher locations, like the heater matrix. The V6 requires the header tank to be raised as well as the correct use of the bleed screw.

Vacuum refilling is a sure fire way to prevent air entrapment, but it can seem complicated the first time you do it.

TC

No bleed screw on the V8 though. Maybe that is different then

Anyway, back to vacuum filling again so not to divert the thread

[3pinplug]

Very well said that man!! yes it is complicated and after spending yesterday afternoon and most fo today on it I have to agree.
Still haven't cracked it but just found a video on you tube with a guy using a similar set uop to mine and he insists you have to block off the top pipe coming out of the expansion tank so will try that in the morning and see how I go, even borrowed another compressor bt can still only get the low reading shown on the gauge.

Have found one of the connections may not be all that so will see if I can get another tomorrow, so at a bit of a loss.

The "muffler basically just gushes air out when I try to vacuum but most of them have this fitted.

Any one used this bit of exact kit as you only can vacuum then unclip and fill, hoping clamping the expansion tank will fix problem.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by 3pinplug

- - - found a video on you tube with a guy using a similar set up to mine and he insists you have to block off the top pipe coming out of the expansion tank

On the later (buff) tank, that's simply connected to the head, so won't affect your situation. Cars with the earlier black header tank need to have the overflow (open ended pipe) blocked off or air will be drawn in.

Have found one of the connections may not be all that so will see if I can get another tomorrow,

All joints/connections/valves/etc. must be perfectly airtight. The smallest leak will prevent you pulling good vacuum. Anything around 2cm mercury is adequate. You're unlikely to pull much less anyway due to the vapour pressure of water in the system.

The "muffler basically just gushes air out when I try to vacuum but most of them have this fitted.

So it's the exhaust of the vacuum pump basically ??

You mention a compressor, is that what you have to draw vacuum via an ejector type pump? The systems used by garages usually employ a standard compressor to power a venturi type air ejector.

Any one used this bit of exact kit as you only can vacuum then unclip and fill, hoping clamping the expansion tank will fix problem.

The system requires three valves or you'll not get very far.
1. On the coolant supply line.
2. On the line to the vacuum pump.
3. On the inlet to the expansion tank.

You appear to be two short. ??

You can do it with only two valves if you use the one shown to control one of the branches on the T-piece. That would make it the same set up as my DIY system.

TC

[3pinplug]

Hi TC
In the pic I have shut the valve turned off to hold pressure , then I removed the airline as it holding what little pressure it had in there, the kit seems to work as follows:-

Air line connects to connection bottom left, vents out through muffler, once up to vacuum I close red valve disconnect compressor then connect coolant bucket and line to same connector then open valve and its sucked in.

So if I leave the top expansion hose undone I am at loss now where to go.

Mark