Drastic Solution to stuck doors??? - Page 8

stocktake · 9th February 2013, 21:34

It's like most things, if you know where to look for the problem and what to do about it then the solution is simple.

The first time i came across this I was helping a member out, it took me around three hours to work out what the problem was and what to do to solve it as it isn't in any instruction manual. But it was well worth it, just seeing how many people have benefited now from my swearing and cursing

psmith · 10th February 2013, 08:59

Recently removed my front near side door card without any damage by removing inner door rubber seal and sill carpet plastic cover. Was able then to pull bottom of door card through gap and then lifted it off the 2 metal brackets. Was able then to get my hand round to remove the plastic cover and release the lock. Once the door was open I could then remove the only screw and the door card was removed undamaged. I just need to buy 4 x fir tree clips, 1 for the door card and 3 for the sill cover. Bought the lock for £40 new off ebay. Theres a company from darlaston that has bought a lot of brand new ex rover factory parts. My superlocking motor had failed.

Yam · 10th February 2013, 09:08

You know though....I think a lot of the problem is the actual door handle inner back-plate.
It may well be that mine had not actually slipped in the plasic lock as they both had equal threads top and bottom....adjusting it lower (with less threads at the bottom) does help, but if like you did in my case go a fraction to far....jammed once central locking is activated.
The plastic locking clip has a fair amount of 'free play' up and down once the rod is unclipped from it....but I think my problem was I pushed the clip down a fraction further (you can feel a little pressure) clipped it in...maybe 2 or 3 mm showing...and that was too much. The Doors opened earlier and seemed perfect...until I used the central locking.
If you allow say to much thread at the bottom of the clip....the door hand operates very late on its pull.
As a point of interest my front doors open earlier than my back......which makes me think the inner backplate which operates from the door handle once pulled is not as forgiving with its tolerance.
I think I have read some people change this item....another know problem perhaps.
I will pop my cards back on when the rain eases of this morning but double check that all is ok with central locking on/off first.
Hopefully all will be ok.

Yam.

psmith · 10th February 2013, 09:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yam

You know though....I think a lot of the problem is the actual door handle inner back-plate.
It may well be that mine had not actually slipped in the plasic lock as they both had equal threads top and bottom....adjusting it lower (with less threads at the bottom) does help, but if like you did in my case go a fraction to far....jammed once central locking is activated.
The plastic locking clip has a fair amount of 'free play' up and down once the rod is unclipped from it....but I think my problem was I pushed the clip down a fraction further (you can feel a little pressure) clipped it in...maybe 2 or 3 mm showing...and that was too much. The Doors opened earlier and seemed perfect...until I used the central locking.
If you allow say to much thread at the bottom of the clip....the door hand operates very late on its pull.
As a point of interest my front doors open earlier than my back......which makes me think the inner backplate which operates from the door handle once pulled is not as forgiving with its tolerance.
I think I have read some people change this item....another know problem perhaps.
I will pop my cards back on when the rain eases of this morning but double check that all is ok with central locking on/off first.
Hopefully all will be ok.

Yam.

The plastic clip does seem to be a weak part of the system and I can see that if the lock froze then this would slip along the thread and cause a problem. I'll double check that Ive setup mine correctly before I put my door card back. I suppose you could make something stronger with a grub screw to clamp on the rod, and if a T section was machined at the other end so it could slide up and down. But then maybe the next weak point would be in the lock assy. I didn't check the handle assy on mine as it all appeared ok.

Billy1mate · 10th February 2013, 09:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by stocktake

I promise not to go on holiday again to an area that has little internet connections

Sorry

I know it's an older thread but I thought Stocktake was following the thread & having a giggle and jumped in at the last minute to save the day.
It is a lesson to everyone to take a breath and just hang on a little longer, help will arrive, it was mentioned that plastic bits don't like the cold, couldn't agree more

Yam · 10th February 2013, 09:36

I suppose in theory you could put a nut each side of the clip(tho the 3 thread rule at the bottom would not leave sufficient thread to put a nut on the bottom.
If the rod always slips up (ie when frozen ect) maybe a nut at the top of the rod or 2 even would prevent this happening.The rod thread looks maybe M6 ?
Just a thought.
Maybe a small grubscrew like Psmith suggests, (M4 or M5) tapped through the Plastic block and nipped onto the thread itself would prevent further issues

Yam.

stocktake · 10th February 2013, 09:46

An attributing factor is the bar itself, it has a double offset in it, all it will take is a frozen lock and a good tug and the angles of the offset are changed, in effect altering the vertical length of the bar, like the nut idea though

psmith · 10th February 2013, 09:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by stocktake

An attributing factor is the bar itself, it has a double offset in it, all it will take is a frozen lock and a good tug and the angles of the offset are changed, in effect altering the vertical length of the bar, like the nut idea though

Yeah that does sound a good idea. Before I put the door card back I'll put two nuts locked together on the rod above the clip. My only concern is whether rover intentionally made this a weak point to protect the lock.

Yam · 10th February 2013, 10:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by psmith

Yeah that does sound a good idea. Before I put the door card back I'll put two nuts locked together on the rod above the clip. My only concern is whether rover intentionally made this a weak point to protect the lock.

Possibly.
I still have my door cards of...waiting for the rain to stop.
Its quite possible you could put 2 nuts together above, to prevent the rod slipping.
My problem was (I think) I left to little thread at the bottom....the door opened earlier on the handle and I thought great...I checked it opened from inside....it did.
It was only after putting the cards back on and locking the car with the fob...that the ****** things would then not open at all........
To say I use a little industrial Language would not be an understatment !!!!

I am sure some just fit a new inner plate to the door handle...so the actual door handle works earlier when you pull it.

Yam.

9th February 2013, 21:34	#71
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,593 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	It's like most things, if you know where to look for the problem and what to do about it then the solution is simple. The first time i came across this I was helping a member out, it took me around three hours to work out what the problem was and what to do to solve it as it isn't in any instruction manual. But it was well worth it, just seeing how many people have benefited now from my swearing and cursing __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

10th February 2013, 09:46	#77
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,593 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	An attributing factor is the bar itself, it has a double offset in it, all it will take is a frozen lock and a good tug and the angles of the offset are changed, in effect altering the vertical length of the bar, like the nut idea though __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

10th February 2013, 08:59	#72
psmith Avid contributor MG 3 style Lux, Rover 45 Cub SE Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Redditch Posts: 113 Thanks: 5 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	Recently removed my front near side door card without any damage by removing inner door rubber seal and sill carpet plastic cover. Was able then to pull bottom of door card through gap and then lifted it off the 2 metal brackets. Was able then to get my hand round to remove the plastic cover and release the lock. Once the door was open I could then remove the only screw and the door card was removed undamaged. I just need to buy 4 x fir tree clips, 1 for the door card and 3 for the sill cover. Bought the lock for £40 new off ebay. Theres a company from darlaston that has bought a lot of brand new ex rover factory parts. My superlocking motor had failed.

10th February 2013, 09:08	#73
Yam Avid contributor Jaguar XF Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Black Country Posts: 229 Thanks: 11 Thanked 18 Times in 17 Posts	You know though....I think a lot of the problem is the actual door handle inner back-plate. It may well be that mine had not actually slipped in the plasic lock as they both had equal threads top and bottom....adjusting it lower (with less threads at the bottom) does help, but if like you did in my case go a fraction to far....jammed once central locking is activated. The plastic locking clip has a fair amount of 'free play' up and down once the rod is unclipped from it....but I think my problem was I pushed the clip down a fraction further (you can feel a little pressure) clipped it in...maybe 2 or 3 mm showing...and that was too much. The Doors opened earlier and seemed perfect...until I used the central locking. If you allow say to much thread at the bottom of the clip....the door hand operates very late on its pull. As a point of interest my front doors open earlier than my back......which makes me think the inner backplate which operates from the door handle once pulled is not as forgiving with its tolerance. I think I have read some people change this item....another know problem perhaps. I will pop my cards back on when the rain eases of this morning but double check that all is ok with central locking on/off first. Hopefully all will be ok. Yam.

10th February 2013, 09:36	#76
Yam Avid contributor Jaguar XF Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Black Country Posts: 229 Thanks: 11 Thanked 18 Times in 17 Posts	I suppose in theory you could put a nut each side of the clip(tho the 3 thread rule at the bottom would not leave sufficient thread to put a nut on the bottom. If the rod always slips up (ie when frozen ect) maybe a nut at the top of the rod or 2 even would prevent this happening.The rod thread looks maybe M6 ? Just a thought. Maybe a small grubscrew like Psmith suggests, (M4 or M5) tapped through the Plastic block and nipped onto the thread itself would prevent further issues Yam.