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19th May 2015, 21:18 | #11 |
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If this is to remove the disk, as longs as the caliper is moved to the side you can still do that with the caliper mount in place. The disk just slides out.
But, if you really must, lots of penetrating oil left to soak and then using an octagon socket and not a double hexagon for a firm hold and apply a decent breaker bar. The hexagon shape will match up exactly to a bolt or screw head, while the double-hexagon will match up with multiple “starting” points. Former good; latter a last resort. Afterwards conduct small victory dance and make a brew.
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19th May 2015, 21:29 | #12 |
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I remember how much fun these were on my first 75!
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19th May 2015, 21:34 | #13 |
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A 1/2" AF is used because it's a better fit than a 13mm. 1/2" - 12.7mm
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19th May 2015, 22:08 | #14 | |
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Quote:
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19th May 2015, 22:16 | #15 |
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A good quality 1/2" spanner should do the job, if you can remove the bottom bolt, tap the caliper carrier with a hammer this helps free the top bolt, you should then be able to loosen it, failing that grind the heads off the bolts then unscrew the threads once the carrier is out of the way.
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19th May 2015, 22:19 | #16 | |
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Quote:
Brian |
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19th May 2015, 22:24 | #17 |
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Or a spiral socket that bites into rusty old bolts
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19th May 2015, 22:44 | #18 |
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19th May 2015, 22:55 | #19 |
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20th May 2015, 05:48 | #20 |
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I've found time after time the best tool I ever bought was my blowtorch
A bit of heat normally persuades the offending nut/bolt to give in Regards Chris |
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