1.8 Timing belt change.

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by skellum

Hi All.
I've been sitting looking at my car for an hour, and I'll try answering my own question.
I think my timing was very slightly wrong to begin with- the marks didn't want to line up properly.
I think I start by tweaking the crank. It's very slightly too far clockwise, so adjust until the oil pump rib sits dead on between the two dots on the crank.
Then I have to set the cams. I suspect they should only rotate clockwise?
If so: one of them will need a tiny tweak, the other almost a full rotation. Once the timing marks on the gears are exactly right I lock them and fit the belt.

So for those in the know,
1. Clockwise only for the cams?
2 Ok to move them independently?
3 Ok to turn them by putting a socket on the bolt holding the gear in place?

Or, am I making this too complicated?
Cheers

You can turn the cams any direction tbh, as long as the crank is in the correct timing position 90deg or safe position as some would call it. The piston in safe mode are at 90 deg and well away from the valves. Generally I would turn the cams clockwise anyway. No problem turning the cams by the wheel retaining set screw.

Perfectly feasible to be a tooth out, have came across a few, and one that was more than a tooth out from a main dealer! Ran like a bag of nails but once timed correctly ran just like new, and no valve damage was incurred.

When fitting the belt make sure you pull up on the front run to make it taught then run it over the exhaust cam wheel keeping tension,then inlet and down the back. It is quite easy to miss a tooth if belt not taught, but this would be caught when you GENTLY turn the engine over a couple of turns to verify that the marks line up. A little bit of 1/2” OD x 2” rubber hose tucked under the crank pulley keeps the belt teeth engaged while doing this

[skellum]

Thanks Gents.
Yes, got the Haynes manual which is excellent, and does a good job of leading you through the process. Once you stray off the path, so to speak, the manual is less helpful than some of the experienced hands on here.

If it's ok to turn the cams in either direction I'll remove the lock tool and bring the timing marks back together. It won't need much. As you say, the belt needs to be tight on the driven side as the tensioner has no effect there. Today it was clearly too loose.
The hose is a good idea- this morning I thought I needed 3 hands to get the belt in place.
Have a good evening everyone.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by skellum

Yes, got the Haynes manual which is excellent, and does a good job of leading you through the process.

On Page 2A-7 follow the guide shown in drawings 7.12 and 7.15 excatly. It's vital that the tensioner spring is wound in the proper direction. The tensioner bolt (2) should be treated with threadlock fluid before use. If you are using a new MGR bolt it will have a threadlock band already.


TC

[skellum]

Hi T-Cut
Yes, new bolt for tensioner.
Been reading this through again, and watched Technozen's Youtube video couple more times.
Many thanks!

[Frogmella]

Originally Posted by skellum

Hi T-Cut
Yes, new bolt for tensioner.
Been reading this through again, and watched Technozen's Youtube video couple more times.
Many thanks!

Have you got a link for that YouTube video? I need to tackle this job and it will be my first time too. (If I can ever get the screws out of the wheel arch liner/sill).

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

Have you got a link for that YouTube video?

Haven't found Technozen, but here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Qn8ljQKZxA&t=70s
Easypeasy with the engine on a stand.

TC

[Frogmella]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Haven't found Technozen, but here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Qn8ljQKZxA&t=70s
Easypeasy with the engine on a stand.

TC

Thanks TC, that IS the Technozen one according to the description.

[skellum]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

Have you got a link for that YouTube video? I need to tackle this job and it will be my first time too. (If I can ever get the screws out of the wheel arch liner/sill).

You've found the video? Good. It helps just to see what you're trying to achieve. Funnily enough the rusty screws meant getting the wheel arch liner off was the slowest bit. Screw-driver didn't work. Mole grips on the wide bit- it's not a screw-and-washer, it's a wide headed screw.
Once it's off the view is good, even better when you remove the engine mount.
If you watch the Technozen video note the bit about the timing belt tensioner: He says "always turn it clockwise", then proceeds to go anti-clockwise. Apparently anticlockwise is the correct way to go.
Also very humorous is the bolt which attaches the rear timing cover to the water pump. You undo it from behind. I didn't remove it completely, so didn't have to try and locate the hole from the wrong side.
Also, one of the bolts for the lower cover is hidden behind the power steering belt tensioner. Remove the front bolt, loosen the rear, and the tensioner will swing clear to expose the lower cover bolt.

Try not to lose the bolt though . . .

[Frogmella]

Originally Posted by skellum

You've found the video? Good. It helps just to see what you're trying to achieve. Funnily enough the rusty screws meant getting the wheel arch liner off was the slowest bit. Screw-driver didn't work. Mole grips on the wide bit- it's not a screw-and-washer, it's a wide headed screw.
Once it's off the view is good, even better when you remove the engine mount.
If you watch the Technozen video note the bit about the timing belt tensioner: He says "always turn it clockwise", then proceeds to go anti-clockwise. Apparently anticlockwise is the correct way to go.
Also very humorous is the bolt which attaches the rear timing cover to the water pump. You undo it from behind. I didn't remove it completely, so didn't have to try and locate the hole from the wrong side.
Also, one of the bolts for the lower cover is hidden behind the power steering belt tensioner. Remove the front bolt, loosen the rear, and the tensioner will swing clear to expose the lower cover bolt.

Try not to lose the bolt though . . .

Here's another YouTube video, same engine on a MGF
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSmw...&index=3&t=11s

[skellum]

Belt is ON.
Luckily the car is not needed for daily use, so I didn't need to rush. I've learned quite a bit on this job, one of the great things about doing it yourself.
I had many very helpful tips both here and mg-rover.org
Rain stopped play before I finished reassembly, so tomorrow I'll refill coolant, do the oil change, and she's ready to go for her MOT. Failed on brake pipes, now replaced.
The car is for our youngest boy, who loves his old Vauxhalls- his Astra diesel is dead on the driveway. We'll see if he appreciates the move upmarket to ZT.