New sills - Page 2

Rsnail · 29th July 2019, 01:36

Lovel, would you think that they would cut an entire sill from a healthy rust free car and sell it like that? If so, that would really be worth a try I guess

Lovel · 29th July 2019, 06:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

Lovel, would you think that they would cut an entire sill from a healthy rust free car and sell it like that? If so, that would really be worth a try I guess

Those complete side panels are ex factory that were destined for assembly but never made it to production. To reduce postage especially overseas, Its worth asking Rimmers to cut a section of sill, they can only say no.

Rsnail · 6th August 2019, 20:36

By the way, forgot to mention, contacted the seller after the sills arrived and he told me that these sills for the 75 are only to be used for repairing the bottom part of the sill and that I am imagining it the wrong way, that's why I positioned the sill the wrong way in the pictures when I was complaining to him that there is that gap on both rear and front sides that needs to be filled with fiberglass for the chrome trim to fit. I am now asking for your help again, found a guy that can weld them in place for me, but before going to him I want to know myself what I'll be talking about. So, as you can see in Pic 1 on my first post, the sill is bent in the middle at almost 90 degrees like the original one, that's why I thought that it's the complete sill and not the bottom part only, but by looking in this picture, can anyone explain to me how it should be fitted?

oldcarguy · 9th August 2019, 07:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovel

Given that you paid £95 for the eBay sills, for not much more money Why not contact Rimmer bros and see if they would cut an original sill section of from this whole side of the body? Relatively cheap if you want to do the whole length of sill in my opinion. Perhaps shipping will be a lot less if just a small section cut off such as the sill.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ALA500140

They are on sale at the moment for £60

Rsnail · 28th August 2019, 15:38

Found a guy in Romania (my home country) and he replaced both sills, completely cleaned and isolated the whole inside of the sills and isolated them with rust inhibitor and rust proofing product, also cut out the old rusted supporting jack points and welded in new metal. I observed the whole process while he was doing it and have to say he did an amazing job.

Now for the coming question, which I've been really thinking about for quite some time... I noticed that in my case, the rear side of the sills and the jacking points in the rear were severely rusted, and also, I am thinking, could that much rust come from keeping the jacking pads inserted in the jacking points on rear side? I've bought the car with the pads inserted in the points on the rear, but no pada for the front side, and always kept the pads on the rear in the jacking points ever since... My thinking is that with the jacking pads inserted, the side of the sill where they are inserted into receiver a lot less air, and air is needed to keep rust away, could this be valid? In the front where there were no pads inserted, the whole sill and the inner side of the sill was almost spotless.

So what are you recommending guys? Keep the pads on or take them off?

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29th July 2019, 01:36	#11
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Lovel, would you think that they would cut an entire sill from a healthy rust free car and sell it like that? If so, that would really be worth a try I guess

6th August 2019, 20:36	#13
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	By the way, forgot to mention, contacted the seller after the sills arrived and he told me that these sills for the 75 are only to be used for repairing the bottom part of the sill and that I am imagining it the wrong way, that's why I positioned the sill the wrong way in the pictures when I was complaining to him that there is that gap on both rear and front sides that needs to be filled with fiberglass for the chrome trim to fit. I am now asking for your help again, found a guy that can weld them in place for me, but before going to him I want to know myself what I'll be talking about. So, as you can see in Pic 1 on my first post, the sill is bent in the middle at almost 90 degrees like the original one, that's why I thought that it's the complete sill and not the bottom part only, but by looking in this picture, can anyone explain to me how it should be fitted?

28th August 2019, 15:38	#15
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Found a guy in Romania (my home country) and he replaced both sills, completely cleaned and isolated the whole inside of the sills and isolated them with rust inhibitor and rust proofing product, also cut out the old rusted supporting jack points and welded in new metal. I observed the whole process while he was doing it and have to say he did an amazing job. Now for the coming question, which I've been really thinking about for quite some time... I noticed that in my case, the rear side of the sills and the jacking points in the rear were severely rusted, and also, I am thinking, could that much rust come from keeping the jacking pads inserted in the jacking points on rear side? I've bought the car with the pads inserted in the points on the rear, but no pada for the front side, and always kept the pads on the rear in the jacking points ever since... My thinking is that with the jacking pads inserted, the side of the sill where they are inserted into receiver a lot less air, and air is needed to keep rust away, could this be valid? In the front where there were no pads inserted, the whole sill and the inner side of the sill was almost spotless. So what are you recommending guys? Keep the pads on or take them off?